Need help on procedure to remove the VVT solenoids on 2015 Juke MR engine. Can't tell what needs to come off to get to the. I have the exploded view from the FSM but can't see them in the engine compartment. If anyone has done this please comment. Wondering if I get to the from the engine compartment or from under the car?

As I recall, on the Juke you can really only get to them from underneath using a long hook to pop the connector and a long socket extension to reach the retaining screw. Even with a lift, they're a complete PITA on just about all the transverse engines.

Oh no , I have 2014 Juke AWD SV !! VStar seeing as you have beaucoup Nissan -tech knowledge/ experience I would like if you may briefly touch on if oil lubrication ,clean oil changes etc. is important or can be a huge factor with VVT , their solenoids ? Also does the recommended Nissan Ester oil have superior properties (not DexosII) ?
I heard Ester oil has a huge surface tension quality though which 'holds' to timing chains , gears , cam etc, and was introduced to reduce initial startup wear and primarily for chain noise /slap upon start ??

Clean oil is everything to IVT/EVT solenoids, and so is proper viscosity. I can't tell you how many oil-burner engines I've seen tossing IVT codes because the owner added STP or 30W50 in order to limit oil loss. I also can't tell you how many trashed timing covers I've seen removed because the tiny oil passages feeding the phasers got sludged and a new IVT couldn't fix it.

The solenoids are pretty powerful and I've never seen clean, proper-viscosity oil of any type cause an issue, natural or synthetic. So use what you like, but it's the old story -- do the maintenance and don't f around.

Thanks - so I guess my Mob1 5-30 ( DexosII for the Turbo) in summer ,and Nissan Ester in winter with my 4500mi-5k max changes probly good .

macgiver wrote: ↑

Tue Aug 31, 2021 7:34 pm

Thanks - so I guess my Mob1 5-30 ( DexosII for the Turbo) in summer ,and Nissan Ester in winter with my 4500mi-5k max changes probly good

You're most welcome. Yah, 5K for full synthetic is very conservative, that engine should last you a long time.

macgiver wrote: ↑

Tue Aug 31, 2021 7:34 pm

Thanks - so I guess my Mob1 5-30 ( DexosII for the Turbo) in summer ,and Nissan Ester in winter with my 4500mi-5k max changes probly good .

IMO ester oil is flushing money. A quality synthetic changed every 4-5k will keep the engine running when every part has failed or been replaced around it. I’ve ran maxlife full synthetic since new on my wife’s 18, sprinkled in with a couple of Mobil 1 oil changes. I recently switched her rogue over to eneos in everything that takes lubrication. Oil, both differentials and the cvt. Doing so her ride went from 28.9 mpg to 31.7 on the same daily trip of 100 miles there and back. I put eneos eco cvt in my 09 and am using idemitsu 5-30 and same results. The 09 never got over 30mpg @80mph but I just ran it 400 miles up to the U P of Michigan and averaged 30.6 hand calculated. I’m switching the 09 over to 0-20 as an experiment for the upcoming Ohio winter and will post uoa and mpg results later.

And I can testify using thicker oil in the 2.5 is a huge issue. Before I swapped out the engine in my 09 I was experiencing some consumption so tried remedying the situation by running a quart of Lucas and the car ran like pure poo and fuel mileage dropped down to the mid 20s. I did run 1 change of mobil 1 truck and suv 5-30 in the wife’s 18 on an extremely hard trip to myrtle beach and back and saw no ill effects. Then again 5-30 is an acceptable viscosity in the owners manual.