VTC Rattle, Help Replace Cam Gears

Nissan 300ZX technical discussion forum: Maintenance, performance, installations, modifications, how-to's and troubleshooting.
Z32CheekiBreeki
Posts: 17
Joined: Sun Dec 29, 2013 6:36 pm
Car: 1991 Red Nissan 300ZX 2+2 N/A

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Hello so my car developed a pretty nasty VTC rattle. My plan is to replace both intake cam gears with ones I have off of a spare motor, as well as new oem VTC springs.
I'm pretty new to wrenching so I'm looking for some advice.
First of all, do you think its necessary to replace the gears? I dont believe they are leaking.
If I do go ahead and replace them, should I just follow the timing belt guide on ttzd up to the cam sprocket removal? What special precautions should I take? Do the cam seals also need to be replaced?
Also, my drivers side VTC solenoid is not working, could that be the culprit in the noise?

Here is a video of the noise I posted a while ago but to no avail.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=poe5BQA-4QY

Sorry for playing 20 questions, but I want to be sure I don't mess anything up attempting this.
Also apologize if this topic has been covered already.


ThisIsSparTTa
Posts: 738
Joined: Wed Sep 26, 2012 6:02 pm
Car: 91 300ZX TT 2+0

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When you have the gears off, you can tell if they are bad by grabbing the front and back, and trying to twist. If it turns just from you turning it, they are bad. Regardless, I think they can still make noise otherwise, so if you have a known good pair that's not going to cost you anything, I'd just spring for that.

I like Z32 Wiki's guide http://z32.wikispaces.com/Timing+Belt+Service. Yes, you will be doing almost all of the work you'd be doing for a timing belt service. If you're due up for a 60k/120k, then you might as well knock all of this out while you're in there. There's no special precautions, the gears will come right off. You don't have to do the cam seals, but if you're due for a 60/120k, you'll be doing them anyways. My biggest advice is to COUNT THE TEETH when you put your timing belt back on to be sure. I was lazy on mine, thought the marks looked good, they weren't, ended up 1 tooth off at the crank, which caused all kinds of weird problems.

Not sure if the VTC solenoid will cause the problem, but just as an FYI, you can replace it with the plenum on, it just takes moving some stuff out of the way, and a little practice.

Z32CheekiBreeki
Posts: 17
Joined: Sun Dec 29, 2013 6:36 pm
Car: 1991 Red Nissan 300ZX 2+2 N/A

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Okay
Im not too sure if im up for a 120k service
chassis has 115k on it, but the motor has 140k
timing belt is like new, and I have confirmed that
PO put lots of new seals and pulleys so not too worried

I think ill tackle that when my wallet is feeling a bit heavier

thank you for the post

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t.mcginley.jr
Posts: 1547
Joined: Fri Jun 01, 2012 5:50 am
Car: 2002 Nissan Altima SE 3.5
1990 Nissan 300ZX NA 2+0
1966 Ford Mustang
Location: New Jersey, USA

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If you just want to replace the VTC springs you can do so with very little work. All you need to do is remove 2 upper timing covers (might need to take off intake pipes, etc. to get enough clearance) and you'll be looking at the gears. Take the 4 little screws off the gold front covers of the gears and the spring is right inside. Replace is with a new one or JWT heavy duty ones and get new o-rings for the covers and you're golden. If the gears or VTC solenoids themselves are bad then its a lot more work like ThisIsSparTTa said

ThisIsSparTTa
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Joined: Wed Sep 26, 2012 6:02 pm
Car: 91 300ZX TT 2+0

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I've read that replacing the VTC springs is only a temporary solution, and using the HD springs people now believe will actually finishing destroying the VTC gear, which will then cause a nasty oil leak. I saw a pretty good writeup on it once, but not sure where it is now.

Z32CheekiBreeki
Posts: 17
Joined: Sun Dec 29, 2013 6:36 pm
Car: 1991 Red Nissan 300ZX 2+2 N/A

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New OEM vtc springs and o-rings arrived today, gonna be replacing them this weekend
Any way to access the gears without removing the radiator? or is better to do so just to save the frustration?

I also pulled the drivers side solenoid from my blown motor, can i test it by hooking it up to my harness and running it out of the socket?

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t.mcginley.jr
Posts: 1547
Joined: Fri Jun 01, 2012 5:50 am
Car: 2002 Nissan Altima SE 3.5
1990 Nissan 300ZX NA 2+0
1966 Ford Mustang
Location: New Jersey, USA

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Oh yeah it's definitely a temp. solution for sure. It probably needs new gears, springs and solenoids. A good used set of gears should be pretty cheap and easy to come by (heck I'll sell you a set lol)

Z32CheekiBreeki
Posts: 17
Joined: Sun Dec 29, 2013 6:36 pm
Car: 1991 Red Nissan 300ZX 2+2 N/A

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UPDATE: grounding both VTCs makes the noise SUBSTANTIALLY quieter
infact, I think the only reason that it remains slightly is because the vibration when revving causes the ground to disconnect temporarily

gonna try and get those springs on and see if they have an effect

ThisIsSparTTa
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Joined: Wed Sep 26, 2012 6:02 pm
Car: 91 300ZX TT 2+0

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You'll just need to pull the radiator. It's not as bad as it sounds. Only thing that sucks is all the coolant that gets wasted. I can get the radiator out in probably <20 minutes including drain time.

Z32CheekiBreeki
Posts: 17
Joined: Sun Dec 29, 2013 6:36 pm
Car: 1991 Red Nissan 300ZX 2+2 N/A

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okay, gonna give it a go tomorrow
also bought a mechanical oil pressure gauge as the oem gauge has been reading funky even though i had the sending unit replace about a month ago
playing with the idea of mounting it just for peace of mind
would it be a terrible idea to mount it in the car (leaks)
or should i mount it on the outside for that classic american look :rotfl

Z32CheekiBreeki
Posts: 17
Joined: Sun Dec 29, 2013 6:36 pm
Car: 1991 Red Nissan 300ZX 2+2 N/A

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Okay need some help here
got the driver side spring in, however I cant get the lower water inlet tube out
got both nuts and the hex bolt out, but it seems like the damn thing is stuck to the block

any ideas? or is there a way to remove the timing cover without removing the inlet tube?

ThisIsSparTTa
Posts: 738
Joined: Wed Sep 26, 2012 6:02 pm
Car: 91 300ZX TT 2+0

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whack it a couple times with a mallet, or use something longer like a screwdriver to torque it. its being held on by RTV, and you'll need to put RTV back on when you replace it.

Z32CheekiBreeki
Posts: 17
Joined: Sun Dec 29, 2013 6:36 pm
Car: 1991 Red Nissan 300ZX 2+2 N/A

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yup, got them both off with a few taps of a hammer, trying to get all the old sealer off now
anyways, both springs and o-rings in, ready to put back together
however one problem

my cousin was trying to help me earlier and dropped a socket somewhere into the engine while all timing covers were on
he believes it fell between the metal timing cover and the water pump
any advice to get it out? cant even see it

ive got a medical buddy whos lending me a tiny camera for things like this, but that means i wait until tomorrow
anything i can do now? i was thinking to check if it fell on the timing belt i could put it in neutral and turn the crank maybe?
EDIT: got it out! used a catheter LOL
anyways, i believe i also dropped a washer from of the nuts on the inlet tube, so im assuming it fell in the same place, can i try the crank thing just in case to make sure? :facepalm:
the lower timing cover never came off btw

Z32CheekiBreeki
Posts: 17
Joined: Sun Dec 29, 2013 6:36 pm
Car: 1991 Red Nissan 300ZX 2+2 N/A

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bump, really need some help here
can i try to just momentarily run the starter? maybe that will fling it out

EDIT: got it out! f*** love magnets
just putting her back together now! :woot:

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t.mcginley.jr
Posts: 1547
Joined: Fri Jun 01, 2012 5:50 am
Car: 2002 Nissan Altima SE 3.5
1990 Nissan 300ZX NA 2+0
1966 Ford Mustang
Location: New Jersey, USA

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Sorry for chiming in so late, I was going to suggest magnets for both the fallen socket and washer lol they are SUPER handy when doing anything mechanical on cars. I have at least 4 of the telescoping kind, you can get cheap ones from harbor freight or sears, even home depot probably.

Good to hear its coming back together! Replace the thermostat while your in there!

Z32CheekiBreeki
Posts: 17
Joined: Sun Dec 29, 2013 6:36 pm
Car: 1991 Red Nissan 300ZX 2+2 N/A

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That's alright, I got it in the end so its all good
Too late for the thermostat but if the sealant doesn't hold I might replace it

Also, for anyone else reading this thinking about doing this job, be careful removing any bolt, nut, washer etc above the water pump because if it falls, it'll get in the lip of the water pump pulley and it is a b**** to get out

Overall, if you aren't clumsy you'll be good lol


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