VQ35DE in S13 in progress.....

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
stu89s13
Posts: 5
Joined: Thu Nov 08, 2007 11:39 am
Car: 1989 nissan 240sx

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Hello guys, I have been watching this thread from the beginning and I have gotten alot of inspiration from it and other threads. First off, much respect to Spec D, Broaner and all the guys who pioneered the swap with factory ECUs. You guys rule. I am doing the swap myself and it is almost done, all I have left to do is some plumbing and exhaust work. I have it running with an 02 Max engine , ecu, harness and guages. TWIN TURBO!!!!


stu89s13
Posts: 5
Joined: Thu Nov 08, 2007 11:39 am
Car: 1989 nissan 240sx

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How do I upload my pictures and video

stu89s13
Posts: 5
Joined: Thu Nov 08, 2007 11:39 am
Car: 1989 nissan 240sx

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irax
Posts: 841
Joined: Sun Jan 04, 2004 10:04 pm
Car: VQ35DER Powered S14.3

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hey stu! email me i got some questions to askya!

[email protected]

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dan14sweeney
Posts: 192
Joined: Thu Feb 05, 2009 11:08 pm
Car: 95 240sx

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I have been considering this swap for awhile I already have an 05 Vq and tranny with complete harness from engine to ecu. I was wondering if there is anyone in texas working on this swap I would like to do It in my s14 but I have 0 experience with swaps I am mostly scared of the wiring. And if it comes down to it I may have the whole set up for sale it only has 30k on it.

irax
Posts: 841
Joined: Sun Jan 04, 2004 10:04 pm
Car: VQ35DER Powered S14.3

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I have a friend in texas that can do the wiring for you, it can be expensive though.

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dan14sweeney
Posts: 192
Joined: Thu Feb 05, 2009 11:08 pm
Car: 95 240sx

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if it is good quality work then it may be worth the price I would really enjoy having someone help with the entire swap and document it very well so it could be posted up on here exactly how to do it. If you could contact him for me where in Texas is he? however on my build I would like to use the stock ecu etc im going to re gasket the whole engine and put in some cams, but other than that it will be stock.

stu89s13
Posts: 5
Joined: Thu Nov 08, 2007 11:39 am
Car: 1989 nissan 240sx

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My longer videos of the car running. I just figured out to upload them.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DoGU_yDcQIQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B1xTH4X5U0w


twiistedsixx
Posts: 2
Joined: Wed Dec 26, 2007 3:13 pm
Car: 1971 Datsun 240Z
Contact:

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Hey Guys,

Ive been a lurker here, but Ive always followed this thread. I have a vq35 in my 1971 240z.

If you wanna check it out Ive built a little website detailing the swap: http://www.vq240z.com

Here are a few videos as well:http://www.youtube.com/user/twiistedsixx

Anyway I thought I would post up here that I have a nice CNC shifter relocater availble now for this swap. Thought it might help some of you 240sx swappers out there as there are only a few s30's running the vq's.



The details about the unit are on my site here: http://www.vq240z.com-a.googlepages.com/forsale


Modified by twiistedsixx at 4:44 AM 3/7/2009

98whitemax
Posts: 51
Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2008 3:40 pm
Car: 98 maxima 1996 240sx

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twiistedsixx hey just emailed you about the bracket and some other stuff nice car i was wondering who owned it good job.

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dan14sweeney
Posts: 192
Joined: Thu Feb 05, 2009 11:08 pm
Car: 95 240sx

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wow twisted great job on the shifter looks much cleaner than some of the others i have seen...hopefully will order one soon once i figure out the details on wiring my swap

twiistedsixx
Posts: 2
Joined: Wed Dec 26, 2007 3:13 pm
Car: 1971 Datsun 240Z
Contact:

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Thanks guys,

The VQ is a really a great swap option I think, especially for the price you can get a drop out for now. Its lightweight, makes good power, and has tons of aftermarket.

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breadbox
Posts: 8550
Joined: Tue Oct 17, 2006 4:09 pm
Car: Red 89 240sx,Black 89 Koop, White 84 720 4x4KC
Location: Va Bch

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I just looked at your site (which needs more pics) and your Z is amazing.


Umai Kakudo
Posts: 4
Joined: Tue May 01, 2007 5:46 pm
Car: S13 KA24DE and 510

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Has anyone who has a running swap run into an issue with P1805 'Brake Switch' causing the car to go into fail safe?

I was double checking fail safe systems and this one is not on the fail safe chart (EC-77) but in the description for the error code it says it is a fail safe item.

P1805 - page EC-581

Description: Brake switch signal is applied to the ECM through the stop lamp switch when the brake pedal is depressed. This signal is used mainly to decrease the engine speed when the vehicle is driving.

Condition: A brake switch signal is not sent to ECM for an extremely long time while the vehicle is driving. The MIL will not light up for this diagnosis. When the malfunction is detected, the ECM enters fail-safe mode.

This item is not on SpecD's list of "must have working" (which mirrors the fail safe list) so I'm wondering if anyone has had issues with this code.

It is just a simple one wire hook up from the brake switch through the F102 connector so I'll probably just hook it up to be safe.

vqslider
Posts: 1
Joined: Sun Apr 12, 2009 1:26 pm
Car: 1990 240sx

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Mark,

Could I send you the required harnesses to be converted to a plug and play? I recently purchased an 05 VQ35 and 6sp Tranny and am financially ready to install. Just lacking on the wiring and custom fabing. This thread should be published.

fireslave
Posts: 106
Joined: Fri Sep 19, 2008 1:46 pm
Car: 1992 240sx coupe

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So, im about to do this swap myself, and I was wondering what you guys think the best way to do the rear diff would be?

I've got an entire wrecked 350z as a donor, and i finured the diff in that would be ideal since the 240sx rear end has ~4.1 gearing vs. ~3.5...

Anyone hook up the 350z rear diff for this swap? Im maily worried about not being able to hook the half-shafts up right... driveshat should be easy though...

irax
Posts: 841
Joined: Sun Jan 04, 2004 10:04 pm
Car: VQ35DER Powered S14.3

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yeah its not that hard, but there rear ends such as the J30 which is close to the z33 final drive that bolt right in to the 240sx subframe.

fireslave
Posts: 106
Joined: Fri Sep 19, 2008 1:46 pm
Car: 1992 240sx coupe

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hmmm, good to know.

im not really all that concerned with the mounting points themselves, as it will be pretty easy to weld up some brackets for that.

What halfshafts do you use for for a 240sx if you want the z33 rear diff? Or do you have to combine the two? I kinda figured the z33 would have longer halfshafts on account of its wider track, but that wouldnt necissarilty have to be true, depending on how the rear spindles are setup.

Since the z33 diff i have has less than 10,000 miles on it, id prefer it over a J30 junkyard diff...

dont think mines an LSD though.... bummer... but once i get the stocker in, atleast the LSD will be an easy swap if needed

irax
Posts: 841
Joined: Sun Jan 04, 2004 10:04 pm
Car: VQ35DER Powered S14.3

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actually use can use the z33 ones, they are perfect in size

but if you want more info please refer to this link

http://zilvia.net/f/chat/18968...60844

this guy modifies the s14 rear subframe to fit the z33 diff

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Soravia
Posts: 3200
Joined: Fri Nov 18, 2005 5:45 pm
Car: 2003 Audi A4 1.8T

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Great job guys. I wish I could have finished my project before I joined. Still selling the thing if anyone wants to pick up where I left off.

fireslave
Posts: 106
Joined: Fri Sep 19, 2008 1:46 pm
Car: 1992 240sx coupe

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Same length and same splines on the hub side?!?!!?

this is almost too good to be true!

irax
Posts: 841
Joined: Sun Jan 04, 2004 10:04 pm
Car: VQ35DER Powered S14.3

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just get an R230 diff from a early q45 and get the axles from a Z/G

fireslave
Posts: 106
Joined: Fri Sep 19, 2008 1:46 pm
Car: 1992 240sx coupe

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doesnt that have much shorter gearing than the z33 diff?

also, i have an s13, and the car in the other thread was an s14.... im pretty sure the s13 and s14 have the same splines / axle length though... correct me if im wrong.

irax
Posts: 841
Joined: Sun Jan 04, 2004 10:04 pm
Car: VQ35DER Powered S14.3

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you are correct

and depending on the year q45 the gearing is closer to the Z than the 240sx

240sx has a 4.083 J30 has 3.5something q45 has 3.8ishand the Z/G 6speed is something like 3.635 or something close to that

so really... not all that bad especially the Z guys swap theirs out for the 3.8~ and the 4.08 as well.

ukprochargedvq35de-revup
Posts: 5
Joined: Sat Dec 27, 2008 7:35 am
Car: single seater race car with procharged vq35de revup

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SpecD,

I'm in the uk using a vq35de in a dirt oval car and the parts/variations of pars are not readily avaliable.

It would be much appreciated if you could tell me what the starter motor is off of that you are using and what the right hand valve cover is off of?

Many thanks in advance,

Carl

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Cured13
Posts: 25
Joined: Sat Jul 28, 2007 7:27 pm
Car: s13 240sx

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Any updates on J30 rear brakes?

SpecDRacing
Posts: 351
Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 3:36 pm

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The right hand (passenger side) valve cover is a modified unit from a VQ30DE (maxima), but..... a Pathfinder one will work (3.5L motor) without having to modify it, and its alluminum (2001-2003). Your in the UK right? Man, I am REALLY wanting a TB48. Any ideas on where I could get one? I see the aussies making rediculous power from that inline 6. Even a TB42 would be fine, I'd like to have one to stick in my D21. Will it bolt to a KA tranny?

SpecDRacing
Posts: 351
Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 3:36 pm

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Hey gang!

I havent given up on this forum. A few things have changed.

ONE - The body work is being redone. New hood (scoop instead of cowl) Body Kit and autometer gauges.

TWO- Possible new engine. No, the old one is doing just fine. I have VQ that I am getting tested to see if I can fit Titan pistons in it and Stroke it out. If all works, I wont have as high of a reving engine (max 6,500 rpm) but will be 4.2 L and 12:1. We'll see. I dont expect that engine to last long, but if it gets built, we will do our best to break it.

OK, back to the body kit. I have read the all the bad things about Andy's Auto Sport in CA. Almost every forum on the net has smashed them for being hard to get ahold of, slow in shipping and basically just lying to the customer. We will see about this. I have purchased the Bloodline body kit for the hatchback (AAS version) and the Vision rear bumper for the coupe. I am not in the biggest hurry for this kit, but I do believe that this thread is the one to put it on. So, as I continue with the VQ35 240SX project, I will keep all of you posted on the progress of the body work, including Andy's Auto Sport. I hope they treat me well. Every company has its share of problems, so I hope Im not one of them. We'll see.

Next, I have been working with a guy by the name of Joseph at Autometer to come up with a good solution to our gauge problems. I will be testing two ways to get a good, solid speed signal to an Autometer gauge. One way will be with the existing relucter wheel on the pinion shaft of my diff (built in to the J30 diffs) and also adding a relucter wheel from a Titan between the driveshaft and the pinion flange of the diff. I will say that Joseph at Autometer is a great person to deal with, and has been very helpful in offereing technical information on their products. Not to mention he's a former G35 (supercharged) owner, so he's got a little nissan blood in his veins.

So, that's what's been up for now. Hope you guys are all doing good!

Oh and.....All you guys working on these now is GREAT! Hope to see more on the road!!!!!

SpecDRacing
Posts: 351
Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 3:36 pm

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The Q45 has an R200V diff, not an R230. I know why you might think that though. The half shafts that go into the diff on the Q45 have a larger diameter than the R200 from all other cars. The axles are a 6 bolt style like the Z/G. The pinion flange on a Q45 is also larger. But, the setup you mention would work, though I havent checked to see if the rear hubs will work. The gear ratio is 3.538. Hope that helps, and also, that is a really, really strong diff!

Somone asked about a subharness for plug and play. I have recently made on of these, though it still requires about 5 wires to be soldered in. Also, the potentiometers are gone from the three sensors I was replacing them with. I use two resistors (one on each side of the signal wire) to create the same effect. I cant remember the ohms at the moment, but when I check tomorrow, I'll post it.

Brake switch wire, anothe ritem monitored by the ECM to anticipate load or lack of load, also needed to properly keep the engine running within the EPA limits of being "clean".

The BRAKE SWITCH signal is when source voltage (12V) makes its way through the switch to the ECM, meaning the brake pedal is depressed. If the driver is holding the pedal down for a good while, the ECM will recognize this and inform the driver by entering fail safe. You would have to be a GRANNY to make this happen. I'm sure the time limit is something in the minutes, not seconds. Also, without hooking up the brake switch to the ECM, the ECM will NEVER see this signal, therefore, this code should not pose a problem. If it does, no biggy, just add a second brake switch to your brake pedal (or a relay from the pedals switch) to supply a 12v source to the ECM. I would not recommend wiring this directly into your existing brake pedal switch, as this swith also feeds the tail lights, and will draw more current than you want, which could (in a rare case) be potentially harmful to the ECM.

Hope that helps! Later gang!

irax
Posts: 841
Joined: Sun Jan 04, 2004 10:04 pm
Car: VQ35DER Powered S14.3

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yeah i just looked it up again i don't know why i thought that either....


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