Vote on Best Rotor/Pad Experience

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OLU40
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I am replacing the rear rotors soon. I'm not impressed with these Nissan's as they warp quick with noticeable fade. Rust is also a problem I would be interested to hear your favorite's based on experience. Many have complained to me personally that slotted and crossed drilled cause sever vibration in the sterring (have witnessed personally) and cracked. Palmer and others, you guys are using Brembo, Stillen etc. I've heard okay things about Powerstop from Greg but he's going back to stock. Fell free to chime in guys.


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Mayhem_J30
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I'll leave this for the Q guys, but rust will always be a problem. You could paint the part of the rotor that doesn't come into contact with the pads, but this could only be delaying the oxidation process. I wish I had painted mine before installation. Right now it's a bright rust orange, can't wait for it to turn into a less noticeable dark brown.

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Q451990
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The Power Stop Cross Drilled have a good reputation here - still warp, but not as quickly. They also have a special gold colored coating that is remarkably good at preventing rust - so the only place you see it is at the contact point with the pads after the car sits for a while.

Heath

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OLU40
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Yeah I figured that brand woul;d get acclaim. I know rust happens but the Nissan rotors are a little crazy for 81 apiece. I'm lucky I have a discount.

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Sopdadope
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I have Powerstop rotors and Axxis mm pads. But if I were to upgrade, I'd stay with OEM rotors. 1) because they're cheaper (depending on where you buy) 2) because they're cheaper 3) because they're cheaper 4) because they're cheaper. lol you get the point. Seriously though, I want to do that 300ZX upgrade but from what I hear you need 16" rims to clear the calipers. If I get 16" rims, I'll get Skyline SOLID rotors with Hawk HP pads.

The powerstop rotors and axxis MM pads do not beat OEM rotors and hawk pads in price or bite. The only benefit to Powerstops is that they're plated to prevent rust and they look cool but don't be fooled by aesthetics. Trust me, I'm learning the hard way. I think an OEM rotor with top-of-the-line pads, a little bit of air-ducting and SS lines will go a long way in improving pedal feel, bite and reducing fade IMO.

Eswift
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i decided on some brembo blanks for the rear of my J30 (simply because i assume greater or equal quality to the nissan, and i got the brembos for cheaper). The fornt powerslot rotors i used are impressive in fighting rust due to the coating applied. Cd plating is also excellent in preventing rust (and creates a nice sheen). The powerslots seem to work just as well (maybe a bit better) than OEM. Only advantages are the rust prevention and possibly slightly better just-wet cold-rotor braking. the brembo blanks are performing identically to the OEM. no warpage on any of the corners yet. I hear stillen has a 6 piston caliper setup for your q ships.

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OLU40
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Funny Sopadope:D I know what you mean about $$$. I've heard ranting and ravings about a skyline setup but I don't know if it is worth the$$$. Nissan pads arem't bad though although I hear alot about Axis pads.

911/Q45
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I've been very happy with my Skyline kit, but it was pricey. The Stillen pads are right at the limit of hardness, you have to really finess the install to avoid squeal. I think the 6 piston calipers, the next step up, are probably overkill for any reasonable Q use. I wish the Q had come with the Skyline brakes as delivered, would have been very AMGlike.

DenverQ
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I run powerslot and I love them its very ahrd to get them to fade and ZERO warpage. They havent rusted either. I use infiniti OEM pads. JUst my 2 cents

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Sopdadope
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I've gone through pads faster with cross-drilled rotors. Noticeably faster. It only took me 3 months to kill a set of Axxis MM Pads with the Powerstops. I'm really looking to get my hands a foursome of 300ZX tt rims (16x8.5) before my next scheduled tire change. My Q could really use the fatter tires and this lets me to jump to 300ZX rotors/calipers.

911/Q45, would the skyline calipers clear 16" wheels? I'm tempted to have a buddy send over some R32 calipers from Japan. The problem is sourcing fairly inexpensive rotors. Brembo blank 300zx rotors can be had for less than $40/pc online.

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Sopdadope
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BTW, Axxis MM Pads are pretty good but Hawk HP pads are even better. These pads have more bite than the metal masters, tried and true via testimonials from people who upgraded from MM's to Hawks. I don't know if they make them for the Q but they do for most anything Nissan. You can take it to the bank they're better than MM's.

Eswift
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pad squealing is an issue realated to poorly installed shims or lack of applying some silicone vibration damper gel. nothing more. the stillen pad compound works great on the J30 as well. a little more "bite" than OEM.

reggiegsd
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I just put on a set of Biondi rotors this weekend. I've had outstanding luck with them in other applications and expect them to do well on the Q. They weigh significantly more than the stock rotors.

Its a good thing I didn't put the brake job off. The right front wheel bearing was TOAST! Sounded like it had rocks in it. The bearing was bone dry at 100K. The 300ZX bearing is a direct replacement and a few bucks less. If you don't have a press, don't try this at home. Getting the hub off and on is easy, getting the bearing in and out is NOT.

It is neet that Nissan put the timing wheel for the ABS inside the hub. It should last the life of the car.

greg_atlanta
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OLU40 wrote:Many have complained to me personally that slotted and crossed drilled cause sever vibration in the sterring (have witnessed personally) and cracked.


Any rotor will cause steering vibration if it's warped, so I don't think that's unique to slotted/drilled rotors.

I say go with either OEM or powerstop rotors. Powerstop will be less likely to show rust if you upgrade wheels. They'll be a little louder for 5K miles or so.

The general consensus on pads is OEM only for rear. They feel great, stop great, and no squealing!!

Metal Master pads are good on front but I've heard they take a while to get used to.

911/Q45
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911/Q45, would the skyline calipers clear 16" wheels? I'm tempted to have a buddy send over some R32 calipers from Japan. The problem is sourcing fairly inexpensive rotors. Brembo blank 300zx rotors can be had for less than $40/pc online. [/QUOTE]

Stillen says 16" clears the Skyline calipers, my only check on that is with the little spare in the trunk. It cleared the backs but not the fronts. That's a pretty little wheel though, so the 300ZXtt may do better. If I get a flat, I hope it's in the back, otherwise I'll have to move a back to the front, then put the spare on the back!

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OLU40
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greg_atlanta wrote:Any rotor will cause steering vibration if it's warped, so I don't think that's unique to slotted/drilled rotors.

I say go with either OEM or powerstop rotors. Powerstop will be less likely to show rust if you upgrade wheels. They'll be a little louder for 5K miles or so.

The general consensus on pads is OEM only for rear. They feel great, stop great, and no squealing!!

Metal Master pads are good on front but I've heard they take a while to get used to.


I've heard different for rears. MM I hear are good all the way around with little squeal. I'm leaning toward those or Hawk's. This is the first I'm hearing of them. Are they durable/cost efficient?

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PalmerWMD
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Both Metal Master and Metal Matrix have a good rep here.

Fred...:)


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