My project I can post picks if needed/wanted.

Issue: (Crank sensor) etc.. listed
1- Don't know what the (3) WIRES are for. I assume 1 is ground ecu, and one is signal-then 3rd is shield... ( )
Without this, I can't proceed with tuning. I have rigged a breadboard using a 555 timer circuit to 'fake' a signal to test [newly built ecu] but ... would like to utilize a factory sensor (I think its a VR type) to do the tuning and get the computer correct before I map out the ecu.

2- How many teeth including missing are on the crank angle sensor trigger wheel located at/on the flywheel? (Pulling the tranny isn't an option now)

3- Why the heck does their can sensor have such a funky 1 / 3 / 4 / 2 trigger wheel?

4- Are the factory injectors High-z , or Low-z? meaning high impedence (5ohm+) or (2.5ohm+/-)

5- Are the COPs (Coil on plug) logic controlled from ecu (5v), or high current i.e. 12v? I believe the outside wires are 12v and center of 3 wire coil is trigger voltage signal.
Info:
2008 Titan motor
Rally car install
Megasquirt 3X with sequintial port injection and no wasted spark.

I can post progress for those interested as well.

Thnx in advance

Not too familiar w/ the Titan motor specifics so can't help much in that regard.

However..

#4 - get our multimeter out. If you don't have one, or don't know how to use one, you're in for a world of hurt trying to wire up and get a stand alone setup running.

I'll tell you right now, being a 2008 motor, they're High-z.

#5 again, being a 2008 motor, the COP's are going to have dwell control and ignitor built in. So correct, you'll need to provide 12v to one side, and the ECU will just provide a trigger signal.

Hardrvin wrote:Not too familiar w/ the Titan motor specifics so can't help much in that regard.

However..

#4 - get our multimeter out. If you don't have one, or don't know how to use one, you're in for a world of hurt trying to wire up and get a stand alone setup running.

I'll tell you right now, being a 2008 motor, they're High-z.

#5 again, being a 2008 motor, the COP's are going to have dwell control and ignitor built in. So correct, you'll need to provide 12v to one side, and the ECU will just provide a trigger signal.

YOU DA MAN!!!
#4- High-z means I don't have to install a homemade resistor board ( additional one 3.3ohm for each injector for low-z, high current draws that would overload the driver(MOSFET NEEDED type), and...

#5- BUILT-IN igniter means I -once again, do not need to build a driver circuit for the coils!!!!!$$$$ ching-ching $$ money back in the cash drawer!!

Anybody have data on crank & cam sensors?:
1- Don't know what the (3) WIRES are for. I assume 1 is ground ecu, and one is signal-then 3rd is shield... ( )
Without this, I can't proceed with tuning. I have rigged a breadboard using a 555 timer circuit to 'fake' a signal to test [newly built ecu] but ... would like to utilize a factory sensor (I think its a VR type) to do the tuning and get the computer correct before I map out the ecu.

2- How many teeth including missing are on the crank angle sensor trigger wheel located at/on the flywheel? (Pulling the tranny isn't an option now)

3- Why the heck does their can sensor have such a funky 1 / 3 / 4 / 2 trigger wheel?

The 5.6 is a great motor with plenty 'o' power. I hope this thread can be of use to many.

Do they really have internal dwell control? if so, for me it would be set and forget....nice.

I can't say for sure, but given the motor is 2008 and everyone has since long moved to it, I'd say it's a pretty safe bet yes.

If not, pick up a set of Chevy LS coil packs. They can be had for the $100~200 range and will take care of all your needs easily.

crank sensor issue solved!

Coil packs, I still cannot get an "AFFIRMATIVE ANSWER" - the dealer ukhuuum, said the ecu controls them, and that's all i got out. (Meaning they're not sure. ..?..)

What I am looking for is to know if they are 5v logic level or 12v from an ecu integrated ign. module. otherwise, I'm going to fry my standalone system.

crank sensor has 3 wires: power, ground, signal; sheilding is around the signal wire not in the connector.

cop is a 5v signal iirc...been a while tbh.

as far as cam sensor goes, remove all but the one timing notch and set your sync appropriately.

Carl H wrote:crank sensor has 3 wires: power, ground, signal; sheilding is around the signal wire not in the connector.

cop is a 5v signal iirc...been a while tbh.

as far as cam sensor goes, remove all but the one timing notch and set your sync appropriately.

Man I have some conflicting info, I love the help don't get me wrong but please check out my progress here:
http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic ... 4&start=20

I found the OEM diagram and posted the +12v crank sensor diagram; The post explains it well, and is visual. IF THE COPs are in fact logic level then I can remove my bosch ignitors. But, if I do and info's wrong, I just blew up a new standalone unit...not good. (It will fry the drivers...

BTW, cam and crank are 2 different pt. #'s. the L20 is crank. Check out the funky oscillascope patterns I posted.

Thanks guys!

99% sure that the coils have integrated igniters, nissan moved away from the external igniters with the introduction of the vq in the maximas.

as far as cam signal goes there should be a sensor pickup on the front cover iirc, you can simplify your cam sync by removing the cam gear and grinding down all but the 1 proud notch on the cam gear, that way you'll get a cam signal without having to worry about the others interfering or having to construct some obtuse decoder circuit/algorithm

Carl H wrote:99% sure that the coils have integrated igniters, nissan moved away from the external igniters with the introduction of the vq in the maximas.

as far as cam signal goes there should be a sensor pickup on the front cover iirc, you can simplify your cam sync by removing the cam gear and grinding down all but the 1 proud notch on the cam gear, that way you'll get a cam signal without having to worry about the others interfering or having to construct some obtuse decoder circuit/algorithm

Thanks Carl, but is there anyone who can 100% knowingly say that its built in ignitor? I appreciate the input really..


Quick explaination of below: Here is the FuNkY signal I'm getting, no fun decoding:the blue is "CAM" ; and the "RED" is crank. Notice 17 red spikes indicating 180*degrees of rotation,(36 teeth missing 2 oposite each other on the wheel) so its showing at least the corrolation sync of one complete cycle and then some.Carl's idea would give me "ONE" simple (Like the LS1GM) spike on the blue cam. Far left shows BTDC compression cyl#1...


And of course my brilliant idea (Yeah right):

why not simplify the crank as well, fill in the one tooth missing?
you could always reposition the sensor if its not in the correct place (in respect to tdc).

Carl H wrote:why not simplify the crank as well, fill in the one tooth missing?
you could always reposition the sensor if its not in the correct place (in respect to tdc).

My idea now is to either use / modify the LS1 G3 program to accept it by capping off the cam end (LS1 has only 1 tooth on cam) , or just set up for wasted spark, tooth triger somehow but dividing 36 into 4 is not even number. 24 teeth= 3, 36= 4.5 teeth per cyl through the 360 deg. retation. (wasted spark is everytime tdc comes.

(I'm just using whats available NOW, rather than re-writing c+ code I'm not able to)

I can switch cylinders 3 & 2 in the firing order no problem.

dunno what your front covers look like but there should be a cam sensor on the exhaust cam as well.

what i was suggesting is that you grind down the tangs that sit proud on the cam gear and leave the lone tang alone for a trigger signal.
this photo kinda illustrates what i was getting at.

Carl H wrote:dunno what your front covers look like but there should be a cam sensor on the exhaust cam as well.

what i was suggesting is that you grind down the tangs that sit proud on the cam gear and leave the lone tang alone for a trigger signal.
this photo kinda illustrates what i was getting at.

no tangs, no exhaust only one - actual picture of mine below:

look at the front

I am working on a VK56 powered 350z and i am having crank issues as well... please e-mail me if you are interested in collaborating.

[email protected]

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but this is what the ' search' come up with and its very nearly what I require.

Can anyone tell me what the posistion of the Crank Angle Sensor is on the flex plate trigger wheel is when the engine is at TDC?

Im putting a VK56 into a offroad race truck using a TH400, We have made an adapter plate to bolt the two together but ive struck a problem trying to locate the EXACT posistion of the sensor.

any help would be great

Thanks