So are you saying you can fit top feed injectors and those rails under the standard manifold? I hope so!!!!!!!!!!Tecni wrote:OEM intake runners for now...
On the passenger-side bank, yeah. All I had to do is chop a small aluminum nipple off the underside of the spider.darinz wrote:
So are you saying you can fit top feed injectors and those rails under the standard manifold? I hope so!!!!!!!!!!
Yeah its from Mazworx. Why do you think it won't work?tmorgan4 wrote:Tecni....awesome work. I'm following this one closely.
Is that a Mazworx transmission adapter? My bellhousing is with them right now but I'm afraid it might not work.
tmorgan4 wrote:Not meaning to clog up your thread, but my starter sits in a different location than on the Z32s. Instead of bolting in through the side, mine comes in through the front and there's an arch in the bellhousing to clear the starter. The part that Mazworx machines is going to interfere with the starter arch, but I'm not sure by how much....
It might be as simple as trimming the adapter slightly and using 5 of the 6 bolts to mount the adapter to the VH. Just not sure how much custom work Mazworx is wanting to do.
If that's the case then the only two things he should be worried about is getting a VH starter and making sure it works on the 300zx flywheel. The tranny adapter is still going to need some trimming.T45 wrote:I think what Tmorgan is saying is that his transmission doesn't have the option for mounting a starter to it. The pathy starter bolts to the engine on the VG just like the VH. I fink...
I have done this and it is a real mission to fill the engine with water/coolant. It air locks and I've found I have to remove top rad hose and fill engine from there. I'm going to refit a filling cap in a similar place to solve the problem.Tecni wrote:Quick update:-20 AN fitting welded to the front of the Thermostat housing. This eliminates the radiator fill cap, PCV vlave and distribution block.
darinz wrote:
I have done this and it is a real mission to fill the engine with water/coolant. It air locks and I've found I have to remove top rad hose and fill engine from there. I'm going to refit a filling cap in a similar place to solve the problem.
I had to chop off my fill neck to make clearance for the hood the other day and was wondering how it would affect the whole air lock thing. I think if I have to have some kind of bleeder it would probably be just a piece of alum tube with a bolt in it for bleeding the air out. It's going to be close though so I guess we'll see.Tecni wrote:yeah that's because your radiator sits lower than the top of of your motor. If I encounter a problem, I'll just put it back on.
Ah, I forgot about those things. I used to work at my uncles shop and the mech had one of those. One of the most useful tools in the shop!Carl H wrote: and when using a coolant funnel im able to get almost all of the air out.
No, my radiator is higher than the engine. The engine is about 50 to 100mm lower than the radiator and th cap is a little bit higher again. The problem is it airlocks and before the thermostat open it start creating steam and blowing water out.Tecni wrote:yeah that's because your radiator sits lower than the top of of your motor. If I encounter a problem, I'll just put it back on.
darinz wrote:
No, my radiator is higher than the engine. The engine is about 50 to 100mm lower than the radiator and th cap is a little bit higher again. The problem is it airlocks and before the thermostat open it start creating steam and blowing water out.