Viper 791xv - s13 installation question - hood and trunk sensor / trunk release?

Post by **onosqv** » Mon Jun 28, 2004 6:55 pm

Hi guys, I have the 89 240sx and was wondering if there are any prerequisites for the hood and trunk sensor to work with Viper 791xv? Since the hood and trunk release seem to be mechanical rather than electrical, would I need an add-on for sensors and trunk release to work?

Thanks

Post by **onosqv** » Mon Jun 28, 2004 6:55 pm

nm, i think I just found the answer, I have to check the install tomorrow, it's too late at night now to be setting off my alarm to check these things.

Anyone know where I can find an electronic trunk releas module for the 791xv?

Post by **MECPInstaller** » Mon Jun 28, 2004 6:55 pm

just need a pinswitches 2-3 bucks for the hood trunk sensors. The trunk pop module usually runs like 30.

Post by **onosqv** » Mon Jun 28, 2004 6:55 pm

MECPInstaller wrote:just need a pinswitches 2-3 bucks for the hood trunk sensors. The trunk pop module usually runs like 30.

Sweet, you don't happen to know where I need to connect wires do you?

. Any help will be great. I'll be checking the system out tomorrow to see if everything is working like it should.

And exactly what kind of pin switches should I be getting? I'm guessing one of these should be fine: http://www.metro-auto.com/Merc...04-29

I'm still processing all the information from today's install, so I'm a little slow right now.

Thanks a lot.

Post by **MECPInstaller** » Mon Jun 28, 2004 6:55 pm

ahh i've been out of work for afew months but let me think and dig around my books and i'll let you know. I'm pretty sure the pin switches connect to a blue wire(i ran blue and brown up under the hood) brown for the siren, blue for the pinswitch. just y it off and run the other to the trunk. And for the trunk pop module you'd use a trigger wire, which would be red with white stripe. Read the instruction manual and make sure those wires make sense, I don't think Viper has changed wiring color codes in the last few months but its better safe than sorry. Take your time installing the alarm hook some stuff up then test it make sure it all works then move on to afew more wires then test again.

Post by **MECPInstaller** » Mon Jun 28, 2004 6:55 pm

in the pic the pinswitch in the upper left hand side is the ones i've always used but any of them are fine. Its the easiest to install just drill 1/4inch hole, screw it in and plug your wire in....and 84 cents each is a nice price. Audio express use to charge almost 5 bucks for one to a customer.

Post by **Silvia2b** » Mon Jun 28, 2004 6:55 pm

The hood pin input on the 791xv is a gray wire in the H3 5 pin connector, the blue however in the H1 connector is for the Trunk input. These are both negative inputs; that means the switch you install should have one side grounded to the chassis, and the other closes the circuit when opened to send a ground signal to the alarm. If you had the alarm professionally installed the professionals should have informed you of the additional cost of installing a hood pin at least, if it wasn't included in the installation price. Please go back and request for them to install one. This is a potential safety hazard if the remote start is accidentally activated. The trunk probably shouldn’t need a switch unless you factory switch is broken. This is how the trunk light turns on when you open it (no there is no trunk light gnome). You can usually find the other end of this circuit somewhere in the dash cluster area. Post a reply with the year and body style of your 240sx I can try help you locate the color and location if you need to.

As for the trunk release, you will require a solenoid, or an actuator which is wired to a relay, to simulate the action of pulling the cable attached to the handle by the drivers seat. Usually this mounts in the trunk near you tail lights and the key hole.

Post by **onosqv** » Mon Jun 28, 2004 6:55 pm

Silvia2b wrote:The hood pin input on the 791xv is a gray wire in the H3 5 pin connector, the blue however in the H1 connector is for the Trunk input. These are both negative inputs; that means the switch you install should have one side grounded to the chassis, and the other closes the circuit when opened to send a ground signal to the alarm. If you had the alarm professionally installed the professionals should have informed you of the additional cost of installing a hood pin at least, if it wasn't included in the installation price. Please go back and request for them to install one. This is a potential safety hazard if the remote start is accidentally activated. The trunk probably shouldn’t need a switch unless you factory switch is broken. This is how the trunk light turns on when you open it (no there is no trunk light gnome). You can usually find the other end of this circuit somewhere in the dash cluster area. Post a reply with the year and body style of your 240sx I can try help you locate the color and location if you need to.

As for the trunk release, you will require a solenoid, or an actuator which is wired to a relay, to simulate the action of pulling the cable attached to the handle by the drivers seat. Usually this mounts in the trunk near you tail lights and the key hole.

Yes, it was "professionally" installed on the side by an employee for a significant amount less. I was just very nervous with playing with the starter kill. He didn't install it as securely as he could have, but now that I have most of it set up, I can do the rest (i.e. hood pin and trunk sensor) myself hopefully.

It is an 89 240sx Coupe. I was hoping he had hooked up the trunk sensor, but I checked today and the hood (which I now know I need to get a pin switch for) and trunk sensors are not hooked up.

If you can tell me the color wire, that will be great. I also have access to the factory manual, so I will be looking at that this weekend.

Thanks for everyone's help.

Post by **Silvia2b** » Mon Jun 28, 2004 6:55 pm

The factory trunk trigger wire is red on a 1989-1990 240sx. It can be located most easily at light in the trunk or at the wiring harness connected to the trunk latch. The light fixture may have to be removed and or electrical tape un-raveled to check wiring colors. The carpet in the trunk would have to be pulled back to expose the harness in the rear latch location. I would suggest you use a digital multi-meter to do a quick check if you have located the correct wire. To do this with a meter here are some simple instructions. If you are already familiar with the procedure, just ignore the following.

How to check the Trunk trigger or trunk pin connection.

1) Strip back a little of the insulation on the wire2) Next take the negative lead of the meter and attach it to factory bolt head that isn’t painted. 3) Set the meter to check for continuity. (Most fluke meters and test equipment will sound a piezo buzzer when set to continuity and the probes are touched to closed circuit, such as a grounded wire and a ground point on the car. the display will usually display zeros.)4) Open and close the trunk lid when open the meter should display that you have continuity when the trunk is open and not when it is closed.5) Connect your lead to that is run through the vehicle to the mounting location of your alarm brain, and connected to the trunk trigger input. ( This should be the blue wire in the main Viper harness or H/1 connector. For the 791xv)

So I think that’s it. Good luck getting you security system setup. You can program your remote to display either the hood, trunk, or both from the blue inputs see the operator manual for these instructions. They don’t explain it in the installation manual. The sequence is started by pushing and holding all buttons on the remote simultaneously for like 2 seconds.

Post by **MECPInstaller** » Mon Jun 28, 2004 6:55 pm

ahh 791 thats a responder isn't it? I'm used to the cheap viper alarms like my viper 300

Post by **onosqv** » Mon Jun 28, 2004 6:55 pm

MECPInstaller wrote:ahh 791 thats a responder isn't it? I'm used to the cheap viper alarms like my viper 300

boys and their toys

. I need to stop spending all this money on the car (especially since most of it isn't "performance" per say, but it makes me happy) until I land my full-time job - fingers crossed.

Post by **IlIkEmYz** » Mon Jun 28, 2004 6:55 pm

you can always ebay.

i got my viper 790xv for $139 shipped.

also on the install i think im going to best buy or some place like that and get it all professionally installed. just the basics.

then after paying for the basic set up i just slip the installer some dough and he'll hook it up with full package... hopefully

anyway that's my plan.

Post by **MECPInstaller** » Mon Jun 28, 2004 6:55 pm

man if you were closer i'd install it for you if? responders can take afew hours to get all the features hooked up. Or if you have a newer car with all the useless factory antitheft crap on it.

Post by **mtnbear23** » Mon Jun 28, 2004 6:55 pm

hm...

after reading all these

I have one little question...

I drive a 1990 240SX fastbackthe trunk release that comes with the car is the lever on the left side of the driver seat

is that wired to the trunk??if it is.. then I guess I can go ahead to install the alarm with the trunk release... (which wire is it for that release and where can I find them under the dash???)

if it isn't.... how would I go about to install the trunk release so when I press the trunk release on my remote, the trunk will unlock??

Post by **onosqv** » Mon Jun 28, 2004 6:55 pm

mtnbear23 wrote:hm...

after reading all these

I have one little question...

I drive a 1990 240SX fastbackthe trunk release that comes with the car is the lever on the left side of the driver seat

is that wired to the trunk??if it is.. then I guess I can go ahead to install the alarm with the trunk release... (which wire is it for that release and where can I find them under the dash???)

if it isn't.... how would I go about to install the trunk release so when I press the trunk release on my remote, the trunk will unlock??

As I understand it, it is not a "powered" trunk release.

There is still a trunk sensor, so that can be hooked up so the alarm will notify you when someone pops the trunk.

However, that lever is manually operated by you to unlock the trunk.

What you need is the actuator module and hook that up to remotely unlock the trunk.

Post by **mtnbear23** » Mon Jun 28, 2004 6:55 pm

brokeAs240sx wrote:What you need is the actuator module and hook that up to remotely unlock the trunk.

where can I find the actuator module??

and how much am I looking at???

Post by **IlIkEmYz** » Mon Jun 28, 2004 6:55 pm

anyone know if the hood of the s13 fastback 1990 has sensory???

Post by **onosqv** » Mon Jun 28, 2004 6:55 pm

mtnbear23 wrote:where can I find the actuator module??

and how much am I looking at???

Probably 30-50 dollars.

Just look on eBay or do a search on google for a trunk release module.

The directed site should have some info on those too.

Post by **onosqv** » Mon Jun 28, 2004 6:55 pm

007jpang wrote:anyone know if the hood of the s13 fastback 1990 has sensory???

when you pop the trunk, does any light come on (i.e. trunk light)?If so, you have a sensor.

Post by **Silvia2b** » Mon Jun 28, 2004 6:55 pm

NO! There is not a factory hood pin on a 90' S13, There is a trunk light and pin switch.

Post by **onosqv** » Mon Jun 28, 2004 6:55 pm

Silvia2b wrote:NO! There is not a factory hood pin on a 90' S13, There is a trunk light and pin switch.

oops. somehow, i read trunk instead of hood.

Yes, there is no hood sensor, but one of the forum members advised me that I can just set up a push pin switch somewhere in the hood and have that connected to the alarm system, which is what a lot of people do.

Post by **sidewaySilvia** » Mon Jun 28, 2004 6:55 pm

Hood pin switches are totally unreliable .. They become one of the most replaced parts of an install.. Do like me and mercury switch the trunk and hood..

Pin switches are generally made of plastic or have a plastic pin that pushes down.. These sooner or later wear out or break.. Its your security pay a little extra for the mercury switch >> most reliable .. Check the directedelectronics site or metro "where I graduated"

Any other questions feel free guys

Post by **MECPInstaller** » Mon Jun 28, 2004 6:55 pm

pin switches aren't unreliable i've had my alarm for afew years and the pinswitches work just like they did when i install them. Also if they did break they are like a 1.50 and simply unbolt out of the hole, its not rocket science....

Post by **MECPInstaller** » Mon Jun 28, 2004 6:55 pm

btw how'd you like metro's program, i went to mobile dynamics and just got back from there media dynamics course yesterday, good stuff.

Post by **sidewaySilvia** » Mon Jun 28, 2004 6:55 pm

Yes to select few , pin switches will be of no problem for some time.. But, I am making a general proven statement by more than a few professional installers .. When I say pro I mean, experienced in the field 10yrs+.

Mr. Mecp check your book on what components usually go bad on your typical install. You may not do this yourself, but many people slam their hoods after oil changes , engine work , etc. . I have replaced a ton of push type pin switches!!Hence, the cost $1.00 per pin switch..

As for the metro program, they teach you all the basics and a hefty amount of troubleshooting ,but there is limited hands on.. Which could be detrimental to in depth installs.. But, many cars are different and there is so,so much more for everyone to learn about in upcoming cars that they can't train you for..

I myself am trying to self teach myself fabrication. Maybe you could help bro.

Post by **MECPInstaller** » Mon Jun 28, 2004 6:55 pm

I could see how comebody could snap one they are pretty flimsy, I myself have kinda stayed away from alarms and remote starts, just cause with all the new factory alarm systems you end up having to interface into and it just gets too annoying at times.

With Fabrication, what are you wanting to learn, fiberglassing, bending mdf, or what? I'll try to help you out if i know the answers. Where are you from not familiar with elizabeth slums.

Post by **sidewaySilvia** » Mon Jun 28, 2004 6:55 pm

I'm from elizabeth , nj. I'm right now trying to build speaker pods for the doors.. I saw ayjay's thread which was pretty good and I saw yours , but couldn't see the pics..

I would just like a list of the materials I would have to get.. What amount of catalyst , bondo , resin .. What brands? The order of procedure.. Where to buy certain things?

Lend me a hand mecp or anyone else for that.. If you could drop it at [email protected] ..Thankz ciao

Post by **MECPInstaller** » Mon Jun 28, 2004 6:55 pm

ahh crap don't tell me another one of my image hosting sites deleted my pics. you can sorta get some views of my boxes at http://photos.yahoo.com/brandon1984_1998. I've really only used bondo brand resin and bondo. I buy all my stuff from autozone, its kinda expensive but don't know of any other places around here that would be cheaper than 20 or so a gallon for resin. You should find all the info you need in the Fiberglass Thread Stickied to the top of the car audio forum

Viper 791xv - s13 installation question - hood and trunk sensor / trunk release?

Viper 791xv - s13 installation question - hood and trunk sensor / trunk release?

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