Video of my CA Running (help!)

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
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cbh148
Posts: 340
Joined: Tue Dec 01, 2009 6:53 am
Car: 2000 Civic Si, 1993 240sx Hatch CA18
Location: Huntsville, AL

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So I'm at 170 miles on my CA after rebuild #3. It doesn't seem any faster to me, but my friends say it feels a bit quicker (had low compression on 2 cylinders before). It doesn't feel like it's in the stock SR20 area.

I'm trying to solve my misfiring issue, which is especially bad during startup. No codes are being thrown. I've changed my CAS and it made no difference. I'm about to try another set of coilpacks, but I'm doubtful.

The engine has always done this, even before the rebuild. Changing harnesses hasn't made a difference. Unplugging my idle control doesn't make a difference. I just tried to test my idle control with a multimeter, and I couldn't get it to read anything (FSM says they should read 9-10 Ω). My spares did have readings, one was a little high, and the other was around 8Ω. Then I tried to test the power getting to the plug for idle control, but it kept popping my ENG CONT fuse.

GT28R, FMIC, KA-DE throttle body, SuperTech pistons, stock everything else (MAF/ECU/cams/compression).

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xJ1GS55lgns&feature=plcp[/youtube]

I'm really hoping to have all this sorted before Saturday because there's a local drift event in town that I don't want to miss.


Ron240sx
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Car: 90 240sx ca18det
89 300zx vg30e

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I never saw you mention anything about TPS voltage. You did state you had a KA24 Throttle. Is it a possiblity your TPS is sending an incorrect voltage level to the ecu. Hope that helped.

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cbh148
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Car: 2000 Civic Si, 1993 240sx Hatch CA18
Location: Huntsville, AL

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Ron240sx wrote:I never saw you mention anything about TPS voltage. You did state you had a KA24 Throttle. Is it a possiblity your TPS is sending an incorrect voltage level to the ecu. Hope that helped.
Thanks for the input! I tested the resistance (ohms) way before this last rebuild, so I doubt it's changed, but I want to check again.

Is the "idle switch" plug on the TPS only on automatics? Mine doesn't have one, and the same goes for my spare TPS too.

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float_6969
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You're not firing on all cylinders, or the cam timing is way off, or the spline in the exhaust cam has spun. Have you checked the spark plugs to compare all of them? How did you set the ignition timing?

Liquid_Neon
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That sounds terrible! dear god no wonder it feels slow, u sound like ur getting 3 cyl at best, 2 at worst. Find what is missing by unplugging coils. Reminds of what mine was doing when i had a bad coil and the ignitor was going (randomly).



I dunno why that wont embed??

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cbh148
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Car: 2000 Civic Si, 1993 240sx Hatch CA18
Location: Huntsville, AL

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I'm gonna swap to my other coil packs later today, and I'll get a video or some pics of the spark plugs for you guys. If it changes how the engine behaves, I'll get another video of that too.

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cbh148
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Car: 2000 Civic Si, 1993 240sx Hatch CA18
Location: Huntsville, AL

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Also, regarding my TPS on my KA24 throttle body, I don't have the socket to plug in my "idle switch" like the FSM talks about.

Image

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cbh148
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Car: 2000 Civic Si, 1993 240sx Hatch CA18
Location: Huntsville, AL

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UPDATE!

As of 10 minutes ago, I've found out that my injector plugs were probably in the wrong order. I removed my CAS and turned the shaft to observe the pulse order of the injectors (also removed the fuel pump fuse and disconnected the coilpack harness), and it was 1-3-2-4. I swapped the #2 and #4 injector plugs and got it to the proper 1-3-4-2 sequence. I bumped the starter a couple times and it seemed eager to crank (although it was before). I'll have to wait till tomorrow to fire it up since it's louder than thunder.


Before it got late, I swapped to my extra set of coilpacks and gapped my plugs, which were strangely set to .05mm. I set them to 1.1mm as per the FSM. It didn't make it run any better, but this was before I investigated the injector plug crime scene.

I also did a quick soapy boost leak test and discovered these leaks:
-Wastegate actuator nipple (bad hose tip -- fixed)
-Nismo FPR (leaking between the two halves -- how do I fix this?)
-BOV flanges (probably the welds, but the leak is facing down so I can't see it, just big fat bubbles droopin' out -- gonna remove that pipe and submerge it to trace the leak if I have to)

Lastly, I've been wondering if my wastegate actuator is faulty. Reason being, I can cap the nipple off with my finger, yet it makes opening the wastegate no more difficult. I can open the wastegate, cap the nipple off, then release the wastegate, and it will shut just as fast as not capping the nipple.

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Image
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M4JjunXdZSA&feature=plcp[/youtube]
Sorry about the foggy lens in these vids. It's like a jungle down here.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ewpgxr7S ... ontext-cha[/youtube]

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float_6969
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How much pressure are you putting on the system?

The correct way to test the wastegate is to use one of those hand held vac pumps with a gauge (like you use to bleed brakes), put about 20" on it, and see if it will hold for a minute or so. If it's bad, you'll see the vac start to drop pretty quickly.

I would do the same thing with the FPR.

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cbh148
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Car: 2000 Civic Si, 1993 240sx Hatch CA18
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Well it's running a lot better now with the injector plug order sorted out. I got a little 2nd gear action in last night and it felt proper. No bogging! Stock boost! So today I'm gonna change my oil filter and get my boost gauge put on so I can throw my new Hallman MBC on and bump the boost up to 11-12 psi. The drift event is tomorrow, so now's crunch time. Bout to go get some tires mounted up too.

I need to find a vacuum/pressure pump like what you're talking about, cause I don't have a fitting on my old air compressor to adapt it to the wastegate line.

My extra intake manifold has the regular CA18 TPS with 2 plugs on it. I'm thinking about putting it on so I can hook up the idle switch because right now it idles high with the AAC plugged in. I unplugged it and was able to dial in the idle to 800rpms, but as soon as I plug the AAC back in, it soars up to around 1900rpms. Perhaps my KA24DE TPS is the issue? Since it doesn't have the "idle switch" socket on it?

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mdb4879
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Ellery has a handheld vacuum pump like Float is talking about that's made exactly for that. I'll see if I can grab it before I head up to the event tomorrow.

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float_6969
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it can't hurt. I would imagine that the ECU uses that switch to tell it that it needs to control the idle, and if it's not working, maybe it holds the AAC open?


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