Vibration problem Y33 99' q45

[heavenz11]

I have a 99' Q45. Noticed vibration when I lowered the car on the stock wheels but barely noticeable. Then I put some 18" on there and there's a pretty good vibration in the front of the car. Vibration only happens when I hit 55+mph. But still feel it a little under that speed. I checked the outer tie rods last night and it seemed fine also I got the wheels rebalanced and they were perfect. Would anybody have any experience with this problem. It bugs the heck out of me!

[maxnix]

Tension rod bushings? New strut bearings? What else did you replace?

What are your current alignment measurements.

BTW, all 2nd Genereation Q45 in US are FGY33. Y33 Cedric and Gloria were never imported.

[BadQ45t]

What type of Rims did you install and who balanced them?? what balancing equipment did they use. That is more than likely your culprit unless you eliminated that already, but changing rims makes a huge diff. I had some 17" aftermarket rims on my 97' and couldn't get them balanced perfectly ever. I finally got some OEM M45 rims that balance perfect...

[Q45tech]

Probably 90% of large aftermarket wheels don't meet oem specifications for wheels. Inner and outer edge runout and 5 gram imbalance per side!

Big wheels [larger than oem or 18"] are for looks.............they assume buyers are ignorant of the ride quality.

Notice aftermarkets don't provide any specs that they have to live up to.

[maxnix]

Notice aftermarkets don't provide any specs that they have to live up to.

Why one must only install known good manufacturer's wheels and not cosmetic poseur wheels like those favored by kids and the VIP crowd. If you don't see a brand participating in a major racing series, chances are that brand is not competitive for strength, weight, and uniformity of dimensions. Foose, HRE, a lot of the dubs companies are examples of the latter.

BBS, OZ Racing, Fikse, Rays, SSR are examples of the former. It's a lot like tires; the top of the brand can be quite good, and the bottom totally inadequate. Enkei is a good example in that they make a few good wheels in Japan (including the cast Sport wheels on the M) and a lot of bad ones elsewhere in the 3rd world.

The trick in employing larger wheels and tires is to minimize the increase in unspring roatating mass. Forged wheels and top quality tires are not inexpensive. As an interesting exercise, compare the weight of Michelin PS2 size for size with other brands.

[heavenz11]

Well I checked it again. They are my tires. I have Michelin Pilot Sports unfortunately they've worn down quick on the inner tread. Making the feel of the ride really uncomfortable. As for the wheels I currently have a set of Sportmax 962's which I'm getting rid off after having them for a week or two. I have always had bad luck on wheels or just did not get my situations right. Anyways I just ordered a set of Work Ryvers and are on the way. Same specs and sizing on the wheels just different offset.

[heavenz11]

Oh by the way thanks for all your help and input.

[maxnix]

As for the wheels I currently have a set of Sportmax 962's which I'm getting rid off after having them for a week or two. I have always had bad luck on wheels or just did not get my situations right. Anyways I just ordered a set of Work Ryvers and are on the way.

To ensure you are not just exchanging one set of poseur wheels for another, spin them up and measure lateral and circumferential run-out as well as balance to see if they meet OOEM specifications. Accurate weight may also be a good clue to your problems.

Might check ou the RUCA thread if your car is owered and your rear camber is excecessive.

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