vh45de 300zx project looks like a go

[ZX2NV]

Hi all

I am new here and am about to embrak on a unique project here in Aus. I currently run a 1995 300zx TT with a stock engine and blown turbo etc it was making 276rwkw without nitrous and around 330odd with and no the nos didnt blow it. Teh fuel pump caused a lean out which cooked cylinder 6 then while towing it to the track 2 hours plus at 120 kph air was forced into the pods and spun the turbos without oil so within 2 sessions my turbo seals went. So am nearly finished building a new engine for it with forged pistons and rods, rebuilt ported heads, Pentroof manifolds and new Garrett GT28R turbos on custom mouth dumps running external gates with screamer pipes. Anyway I am turning my 95 back into a fully complying car as its road registered and enjoying it a bit more.

I have hopefully found a donor car for my next project its a 1992 300zx NA 5 speed 2+2 with a knocky engine.

It seems almost a shame to tear it down into a race car actually but oh wellI was at a local importer today checking out the VH45DE and also the 1UZFE for overall fitment and measuring etc they also had a VG30DE there too so could sit all three side by side for good comparisons. I am planning on fitting a R32 Skyline crossmember to me project car as this member brings the engine forward potentially around 130mm which will allow for master cylinder clearance etc and should also work betetr for the front sumped VH45 engine. I will be retaining the 5 speed and getting one of those Mazworks adaptors once final assembly is all done. The only concern for me is the height of the engine with those trick looking factory intakes in place. Its nearly 680mm tall compared to the VG30de at 600ish. Also the sideways widht seems a little close too at first measurements but can always use solid engine mounts with dampeners fitted to the engine and strut.

Also if I wanted to take thisAnd add this to reduce the overall height substantiallyWhat other mods would I have to do to make it work. Obviously I couldnt use the stock AFM and Map sensors would most likely be out too. Does anyone know how much the setup costs from that supplier and what you get for your bucks. I presume a fuel rail and injectors come with it or has the stock setup been incorporated into the design for reuse. Its a trick setup but may be easier to put a scoop on the hood for starters and worry about it later.

Here is a few more engine pics from today of the VH45 1UZ and VG30

I really want to keep it in the Nissan family with the V8 but there are so many more options and bolt on M90 charger kits available here in OZ so its hard to look past the 1uzfe although gearbox choice is limited and no option for the Z32 5 speed, so will need a custom tailshaft, custom mount, flywheel clutch yada yada yada so maybe sticking with the Nissan is the way to go. This will all start to happen in the coming weeks as the car will be built to race competitively in state events as well as Targa Tasmania road rally and the Dutton rally next year so time is of the essence so to speak.

Cheers

J

[Hogg]

Awesome project man, IM looking forward to seeing this - my S13 is falling apart, and so is my motor hah... That motor is mint!

[Raxephon]

Beware the chain guide issues of the earlier VH45DE motors.

Welcome to NICO!

[Florida240sx]

Can't wait to see it being built. I'm dropping one in my s13.

[ZX2NV]

Beware the chain guide issues of the earlier VH45DE motors.

Welcome to NICO!

Cheers

I have read about that and will be upgrading to the later model timing setup for sure.

Part of the deal with the importers is I will be getting one of their engines that has a little moisture in the bores for next to nothing. I will use it as the mockup engine etc and once the engine is fitted up properly it will be pulled down, block will be dipped crack tested, honed and decked with new rings and bearings fitted. Heads will be reconditioned with new stem seals, cam seals and guides fitted as well as all springs lifters and valves checked etc. The whole thing will be reassembled with new gaskets and full 100k service kit with new idler pulleys, water and oil pumps and the usual ancillary gear finding its way back on.

So for now our limited budget to build this car is more about reliability than outright go but if the budget extends will look at low comp custom ACL pistons aswell as a CAPA (www.capa.com.au) supercharger kit and intercooler system but I fear this will blow the cost out too much and will have to be done next year once all the bugs are sorted out.

I will keep the site and thread updated as things progress and will probably start a new thread once the actual teardown and build begins

Here is a few pics of my silver 300zxTT

At the drags on the start lining purging the nitrous system

6k launch off the line note clutch dust under car yep it sort of start slipping after that.



At Wakefield race way for Autosalon magazine circuit battle (like time attack in Japan)The carbon fibre wing on the rear is actually adjustable in car for downforce. I rigged ip a couple of SPAL actuators to the wing and fitted a power window switch on the centre console. It actually works very well and can run the wing flat with nearly no downforce for less drag on straights etc and then increase it prior to high speed turns etc for added downforce and rear wheel grip. I have been working on a way to make it automatic and still going.

[sijoko]

That's a nice Z car. Is that a factory 2+2 with the turbo engine? We never got the turbo in a 2+2 version in the States, only the short wheelbase model.

[ZX2NV]

That's a nice Z car. Is that a factory 2+2 with the turbo engine? We never got the turbo in a 2+2 version in the States, only the short wheelbase model.

Yeah its a Jap factory spec 2+2 TT Manual imported into Australia back in 2002

We can no longer import 2+2' either unless they are post 95 builds as they were sold in that configuration but NA version here between 89 and 95. Can still import them as a private race though but no compliance etc

[jay-spec013]

Some one told me the Q45 engine mounts are identical to 300ZX(Z32) engine mounts. please anyone is this info true?

[SSDwellah]

Running a bit rich on the left bank are we? Great project

Are you running the stock ECU on the VG30 right now? Any plans to run aftermarket on the VH45? Also, about the rear aero. That was a good idea, but I was also researching making an active aero controller to automatically increase the drag. Sorry if this goes off topic a bit. If it does, we can start a new thread. Also I don't know how good you are with electronics, so stop me if I am going crazy.

Here's what I was thinking for the controller:You either need to feed in an existing speed signal, or it needs its own accelerometer. Optionally it can also have a brake override wire (so if you are hard on the brake for some predetermined time, it just folds against the wind to slow you down).It should obviously have an auto mode but still have a manual mode. When in auto mode:

- Increase pitch when braking/decelerating more than 1.0s or over some threshold (maybe configurable)- Change the angle of attack after you exit a turn or are accelerating- Have a dead band so that the thing is not switching constantly when you are near the threshold and thus damaging the actuators.

There are some trade-offs to having a built-in accelerometer ('+' for pro, '-' for con):+ the unit will be universal and will work in any car without custom speedometer detection circuitry+ will not require any custom calibration based on different rear ratios, tire sizes, etc...+ It will work irrespective of wheelspin (speed sensor would read higher since it has no idea that the power is not being transmitted to the ground)

- Could lose sync without a speed signal: accelerometers record acceleration not speed, so for speed calculations, you need to integrate acceleration. This coupled with the accelerometer error and not knowing the initial speed can cause integral runoff error.- Accelerometers can be a bit pricey, luckily you only really need a one axis or possibly two axis (if you really want to be precise when going into a nasty turn).- A one axis sensor will require mounting the sensor in a specific orientation (front to back, but you may turn the circuit board how ever you want providing that is met). A two axis sensor will require you to be more rigorous, and mount it in a specific way front to back and side to side (think about what happens to East West when you flip a compass upside down, same concept). Otherwise, you need some configurable way to define what is forward and backward (and thus also left/right on a two axis).

Or... you can win the lottery and buy one of these starting at $4k.

http://aeromotions.com/products/

[riu]

just to let you know, that Kinsler Individual Thottle Body kit does not fit. Kinsler never built it to proper measurements and they no longer offer it.