VH45 to Z32 gearbox adaptor plate.

[Mettler]

Well I'd make it as thin as it's safe to really.

The main areas you'd need thickness in are where block & bellhousing holes are close to each other, so that the torsional stress can be properly transferred through the bolts... the rest of it can be thinner because it's not under as much load.

The other thing to consider is how much clearance you get around the flywheel, and how much further back towards the engine you can go from the block's mating face for the bellhousing. IIRC there isn't really much depth to work with.

To be honest I think an adaptor plate is a bad way to do it in the first place. Chopping & modifying the factory bellhousing on either the gearbox, or the engine, is the best way (other than designing a full custom bellhousing like ultrapulse), because then you don't have to be dodgy and run a spacer behind your flywheel. (Even though the factory flexplate runs a 4mm spacer anyway.)

If I could get access to a VH45 motor & a Z32 gearbox, I could rig them up and then spend a bit of time performing measurements. Model a bellhousing in 3d with provision for mounting a clutch fork on either side and use my 3d model to have a mould CNC machined, then cast up bellhousings.

[Raxephon]

.....(think 1-2-3mm)... I think itd be ebtter to make it thinner, rather than the thicker one that John was making...

Did you mean centimeter perchance ?

Because 3 millimeters is WAY too thin.

[Clifton]

If I could get access to a VH45 motor & a Z32 gearbox, I could rig them up and then spend a bit of time performing measurements. Model a bellhousing in 3d with provision for mounting a clutch fork on either side and use my 3d model to have a mould CNC machined, then cast up bellhousings.

From what I've heard (a friend has some car part molds) it is expensive to get them done. You need a negative, a postive and the final, something like that. Do you think you could get them done at a reasonable price? I didn't really like the flywheel spacer but currently it's the only option for us that have been waiting on John.

[Mettler]

You model the object you want cast, then you subtract that model from a solid block, then divide up that solid block into the parts that make a casting mould. In the case of a bellhousing, two pieces should suffice.

From there you have to add lugs to the moulds so that they're able to be assembled. Again, you then subtract these pieces from a solid block to make moulds of these.

This should give you moulds from which you can create the casting sands that you pour the molten aluminium into for your bellhousing

I know how it's done, takes a bit of design time though none of it is particularly difficult. The costliest part of the exercise, especially when dealing with an object that is large in all three axis', is the mould material & the CNC machining. Once they've been created however, making castings should be relatively cheap from there.

[ultrapulse]

I'd guess maybe 3/4", as the bolts/capscrews holding the plate to the block have to be recessed to allow the overlapping gearbox face to clear them, ie recessed enough to be below the greabox face, yet still enough meat between the bolts/capscrews plate area and the block to support the weight/torque and abuse..and some for safety.Not a big fan of spacer plates, only due to flywheel spacer rquirements. I must say though, that after making mine from scratch a plate would be much easier. When using the z32 setup, youd need to def mount the starter on the box, as one of the z32 locating dowels is right where the vh45 starter is. What I need is a VH41 bellhousing or shim plate (factory thin steel plate between motor and box).One last thing, I wouldnt copy ANYONES I didnt have a hand in doing!! A mate had probs with his box in his circuit car. Got it sent away and it was found to be 8 thou out. Now this wasnt a back yard job, but was a renowned chassis and racecar fab outfit. His car jumped out of gear occasionally. Anyone from NZ would know them, the bellhousing was a cast "Graeme Berry Racecars" branded unit. So yeah always pay to check before ripping off anyone elses work

[elwesso]

Did you mean centimeter perchance ?

Because 3 millimeters is WAY too thin.

no its way thin.... I was thinking like a thickish washer.... certainly no thicker than the head on the factory infiniti Q45 keys....

Its obviously not a problem because its held up to 2 engines at 450HP or so...

[Ezekial]

Give John D a break guys ... He has gone to the trouble of organising the big group buy ... in most cases, the time and stuffing around actually makes it NOT WORTHWHILE for the person organising it ...

I think this is the BEST way to do the adapter plate ... and it was the method used for the 1100 hp powerglide setup behind my motor





Now i know its auto to auto so you can just change the dimensions of the convertor to make up the spacer difference ... but with a manual ... in some cases you can get away with no flywheel spacer because the bell housing on the manual box might come out further than the original auto VH45 bell housing ... ie. vh45 bell housing length + adapter thickness = manual bell housing length

AND ... there is no welding!!

[mtcookson]

I've had my project planned for over 2 years now so this wait hasn't been too bad for me.

[elwesso]

thing is, if you dont use a nissan box, then theres no chance of using factory mounts.... and theres no nissan box that uses a removable bellhousing (which sucks)

[Mettler]

Heheh Ultrapulse it cracks me up how you use imperial measurements when working with a metric based engine :p

[ultrapulse]

Yeah, I try and use both metric and imperial , keeps us both on our toes, y'know us and them way over the ditch, used to working on simple lego like (...cough..) chevs & mopars (..cough..) apparently... ...ahem.Sometimes it is just easier saying "half inch" than "12.7mil", sometimes its easier saying 10mil than ... inch....

[WidebodyZ]

thing is, if you dont use a nissan box, then theres no chance of using factory mounts.... and theres no nissan box that uses a removable bellhousing (which sucks)

???????????? ^^both RB bellhousings and missions and yes removable^^ ^^Z31 bell housing and mission..removable^^

^^Z32 bell housing and mission..removable^^ (It's how we mate up the RB26 to the Z32..RB bellhousing on VG trans.)

So I'm a little confused as to what you mean by not removable. I've personally removed them myself. You can clearly see the bolts that connect the two sections quite easily.

[Clifton]

Give John D a break guys ... He has gone to the trouble of organising the big group buy ... in most cases, the time and stuffing around actually makes it NOT WORTHWHILE for the person organising it ...

Ok. When your money has been tied up for months (5) on something that should have taken a week or two and you have no option but wait as long as it takes because you have a pretty good deposit that is not refundable. I think we have been pretty reasonable. He did not do this group buy for our benifit. The part was already done, just needed to make 10 more. The trouble he needed to go through to get them done was known by him as was the profit.

[ultrapulse]

So I'm a little confused as to what you mean by not removable. I've personally removed them myself. You can clearly see the bolts that connect the two sections quite easily.

Thats dismantling the whole box by splitting the main casing, ie oil everywhere.. Sure any gearbox can be pulled down, but what we are referring to is the *bellhousing*Here is a pic of a gearbox which is 'still together' but bellhousing removed. This cannot be done with most of the nissan manual trnasmissions.

[Mettler]

And here (mine):

[WidebodyZ]

The bellhousing is STILL that whole front section. Some manufacturers just split them in half as you displayed for maintenance reasons. So maybe instead of complaining about parts that won't work anyhow, you should be worrying about how to use the parts that WILL work. We have split up several to mate with other bell housings or to make adapter plates to mate them. If you're afraid of a little oil then maybe you shouldn't be thinking about this mod.

[ultrapulse]

When I said oil, I meant oil, bearings, synchro rings if U separate what u call the 'removeable bellhousing' , and u said you're a little confused?!, small wonder. Some people just cant seem to admit theyre wrong. No most nissan manual boxes dont have removeable bellhousings, yes I have mated up a t56 which does work.

[Mettler]

I'm with ultrapulse on this one. With a toyota box and other split case bellhousing gearboxes, you just remove the bellhousing with a series of bolts, it's hassle & mess free. With Nissan, if you want to take the front half of the box off, it's not quite such a quick and easy job as you have to consider lots more factors. I don't even know why this is being argued tbh !

3d modeled, CNC'ed & cast custom bellhousing ftw !

[SSDwellah]

Which

And here (mine):

Wait I am confused? Which transmission is this? It looks a lot like the VH45 bellhousing but the gearbox looks very much like the supra one above (except the shifter section bolted on near the output yoke looks slightly different).

Can you please explain? Is this a more or less bolt-on MT solution for the VH45DE???

Thanks

[Ezekial]

thats all supra in that photo ...

[Mettler]

That's a Toyota W57 gearbox with rear-mount shifter (I'm tired of them being called a supra gearbox, because they also came out in the cressida & other cars) and a Toyota G series bellhousing to suit (useless other than as a reference for where the pivot point is located).

[WidebodyZ]

When I said oil, I meant oil, bearings, synchro rings if U separate what u call the 'removeable bellhousing' , and u said you're a little confused?!, small wonder. Some people just cant seem to admit theyre wrong. No most nissan manual boxes dont have removeable bellhousings, yes I have mated up a t56 which does work.

The confusion is that you didn't read what I posted. WE HAVE SWAPPED MOTORS USING VG MISSIONS WITH RB BELLHOUSINGS. Should I make it bigger and more bold next time? Must have been in dreamland when doing these motorswaps... (also used VG missions on L series bellhousings on S30's) Don't let the door hit you on the way out smart guy. OH NOES!!! GEARS AND OILS!!

[elwesso]

I dont think anyone was doubting you can or cant do it, but its not really a feasible option for a way to bolt the VH45 to the MT..

[ultrapulse]

Yes he's being a cheeky tosser now, maybe he needs a b*tch slap. This whole thread is about getting a manual transmission bolted up to the v8, so I would rather talk along those lines rather than this bullsh*t banter.
Modified by ultrapulse at 11:14 AM 10/25/2006

[slownslurious]

indeed, same here. on a positive note dixon claims he has the parcel packaged and ready to weigh. I'll probably wait till someone else actually receives theres to pay him the remainder though. He's had my $350 for 4 months I don't see the harm in making him wait a little bit for the remainder.

[slownslurious]

I got my final quote today its over $120 more than my calculations... anyone ele?

[pmpmstrb]

Mine is over by £50, which using xe.com, is $95.42.

[slownslurious]

well let me explain what I mean by copying my email to him.

His email to me:From: John Dixon [mailto:[email protected]] Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2006 11:51 AMTo: Hunt, Andrew CSubject: FW: Trans Plate



Hi,



The shipping quote for the plate is £53.52 + £9 insurace (with bolts). Taking off your deposit of £143.95 that leaves a balance of £318. 57

Courier is DHL with £0 Excess insurance and 1-2 working days transit time.



Let me know if thats OK or if you'd rather arrange your own shipping or remove the bolts.

As soon as funds clear I'll ship the plate off to you.

My email back:

believe your calculations are off. The deal was $650 US plus shipping, with a 150 lb sterling deposit up front. That deposit worked out to $ 278.61 cents for me. The $650 US minus 278.61 equals a remaining balance of $371.39 us. The shipping you quoted is $119.38 us, for a total of $490.77. This would be $650 us plus shipping, as the deal was stated.

I’m not sure where the numbers you are giving me are from or why they are in lbs since the deal was in US dollars. The amount you quoted in lbs turns out to be $618.41 which is a substantial difference. Please let me know what is going on and why you have changed the price.

Andrew

does any of that make sense?

[pmpmstrb]

He has been telling me pounds since the beginning. Here's mine. The cost of the plate (£350) plus shipping (£62.52) is £412.52. He told me that my deposit was £141.07 and my remaining balance was £321.45 which adds up to £462.52, making it £50 over ( or $100 us).

[Clifton]

Why not emalil him first and find out what is going, give him a chance to fix it and clear it up before posting the problem here?