VH45 Crank Pulley

[RustyBucket]

I've noticed when the engine is running that the main crank pulley seems to move forward and backward a few millimeters.

Is this an issue with the crank pulley or could it be something deeper and more serious? Is the crank pulley on the VH45 a single piece unit or is it a multi-piece like some of the later Honda C32 engines?

[OwnerCS]

The pulley itself is a single piece unit. The pulley should be torqued to 270 ft lb to the crankshaft..There is an inner piece that is the balancer part that must be in a specific position to the crank shaft. If any part of that assembly appears to be moving, I would get it addressed fast.

Here are some pictures below. In the second picture you can see the balancer within the pulley.

[RustyBucket]

Is the balancer the inner piece with the white marking lining up with the white mark on the outer pulley? I'm assuming those are for proper alignment of the balancer relative to the pulley?

Any ideas on ways I could check for play without taking too much apart? I want to try and do everything I can do myself before taking it to a mechanic, which I would need to do if I take the pulley off since the torque wrench I have only goes to 90 ft-lb or so.

I can't induce any movement by hand with the engine off (and I'm definitely not trying with the engine running - I like being able to count to ten with my shoes on) . I'm thinking of taking the tension off the belts and checking for play that way.

[theramz]

You've probably lost the crank bolt and the only thing keeping it on is the belt!

[OwnerCS]

The inner balancer part is bolted to the pulley with (IIRC) eight bolts. Opposite to the white line is a yellow dot. I had it all apart and repainted the white line and yellow dot. I used the white line to keep track of the balancer position to the pulley so it would line up on reinstallation.

[RustyBucket]

You've probably lost the crank bolt and the only thing keeping it on is the belt!

The crank bolt is definitely on there... I can feel it in the center of the pulley.

I am changing the oil this coming weekend which should give me a chance to look at it closer. I am really starting to worry that it might actually be the front bearing on the crankshaft.

[Lokim]

Doubtful its the bearing, as the crank is very rigid and wouldn't wobble if the other bearings are ok. I'd bet the rubber core of your balancer is shot.

[RustyBucket]

It's been a while since I've been able to really look at this problem, but it seems to be intermittent and is not happening constantly.

The balancer being the problem makes sense, especially considering the intermittent nature of the problem. I can't find a part number for the balancer in FAST. I'm assuming that means I have to replace the entire pulley, correct?

What tools will I need to remove and replace the crank pulley?

I picked up a 20-250 ft-lb torque wrench on sale from Canadian tire for $54.99 before tax (I figure I can torque it to 250 and then tighten a bit further with a breaker bar). One of the local auto parts chains does a tool loan program so I can get my hands on a puller for the pulley. OwnerCS, I see you used a chain wrench to hold the pulley. Is this the only way to hold the pulley and keep it from rotating while you tighten the bolt?

As far as installing the pulley onto the crank and aligning it for the balancer, is the crankshaft keyed so it can only be installed one way or are there markings that need to be lined up?

[OwnerCS]

IIRC - You many not need to remove the crank pulley if it is only the balancer that has worked loose. There are separate bolts that hold the balancer in place.

I would put a couple dabs of paint (easliy seen) on the pulley and the balancer to use as a mating point -- that is if you remove either.

The pulley is keyed to the crankshaft. I remember having to figure out how the balancer positioned to the crank pulley based on scuff patterns from the balancer bolts. If I had been a little more experienced, I would have marked the balancer and crank pulley before removal.

I had a hard time finding a chain wrench long enough to wrap around the pulley. I finally found that one on eBay. To protect the pulley when I torqued up the main bolt, I took a short length of an old leather belt and wrapped the pulley then secured it in place with some silver duct tape as you see in the picture. I had little help available when I was tightening the pulley so I had to use duct tape as that 3rd hand..

Some of the things you see in my pictures with temporary tape or wire comes out of learning how to work without a 3rd or 4th hand to help hold some items in place during the process.

[yodawill2000]

Not sure if the Starter is easily accessible on the Q as it is on the J30 but if so all I did was remove the starter and wedge a large flat blade screw driver
between the teeth on the flywheel while a helper torqued the Crank bolt.
Worked quite well.

[maxnix]

I picked up a 20-250 ft-lb torque wrench on sale from Canadian tire for $54.99 before tax (I figure I can torque it to 250 and then tighten a bit further with a breaker bar).

This flat out won't work. It has to be torqued precisely as the oil pump sprocket is not keyed to the crank and must have the exact torque to drive but not over drove the oil pump.