VH starter to Z32 flywheel?

Discuss topics related to the VH41DE, VH45DE, VK45DE, and VK56DE engines.
Orphan
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Is it possible to just find a new gear for the standard VH starter to meet up with the Z32 flywheel?


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Carl H
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the z32 na flywheel will work just fine with the vh starter but it will need to be moved back twards the block a bit...its not much to shave like 1-2mm but it will work and this is what i did for my vh.

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elwesso
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I heard from someone (grain of salt) that you can just swap the ring gears...

zmech
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It requires more than that.You will need to swap the auto ring gear onto the Z32 flywheel and offset it then weld it. I also removed some material from the flywheel to crank mating surface to move it closer t the engine. By the time you are done it will sit extremely close to the oilpan flange. See pics at link below.

Making a new album at new URL. Be up soon...

http://zmech.net/photos/index....final

Modified by zmech at 10:46 AM 5/15/2009
Modified by zmech at 9:50 PM 6/11/2009

Wes M
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Hi Zmech,

Id be very careful with any welding done to flywheels because of the potential to cause cracks in or around the welds. What type of electrodes did you use?

I've seen flywheels when they let go and it is not pretty. Personally I would move heaven and earth to relocate my starter motor before I would touch anything on the flywheel - and that goes for lightening flywheels too. I also always make a point to crack test a used flywheel before installing it..

Oh and I live in a cottonwool box too.

Ok just kidding about the last one - but serious about the rest.

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Mettler
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Looks to me like he's done a nice job _b

Wes M
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Mettler wrote:Looks to me like he's done a nice job _b
Absolutely - I wish my welds looked that good. My comments were not intended as a criticism but as a caution. Most OEM flywheels I believe are made of cast iron? Cast iron does not like to be welded due to its brittle nature and the process of welding it I would consider specialist - careful use of preheat and consumable selection. Cracking is very often not visible to the naked eye, even under magnification. Through work we use techniques such as magnetic particle, ultrasonic or dye penetrant inspection to find what is otherwise invisible.

Once again, I'm not here to knock anyones work. What zmechs done in that Z is stunning to say the least. Just cautioning the average after hours enthusiast that there is more to is than taking a stick welder to a fly wheel.

-W

zmech
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Joined: Thu Apr 23, 2009 4:39 am

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Wes M wrote:
Absolutely - I wish my welds looked that good. My comments were not intended as a criticism but as a caution. Most OEM flywheels I believe are made of cast iron? Cast iron does not like to be welded due to its brittle nature and the process of welding it I would consider specialist - careful use of preheat and consumable selection. Cracking is very often not visible to the naked eye, even under magnification. Through work we use techniques such as magnetic particle, ultrasonic or dye penetrant inspection to find what is otherwise invisible.

Once again, I'm not here to knock anyones work. What zmechs done in that Z is stunning to say the least. Just cautioning the average after hours enthusiast that there is more to is than taking a stick welder to a fly wheel.

-W
Thanks for the caution but I did have the flywheel spun and checked already. It was spun to 9000 rpms for 5 minutes and then had it checked by the dye method. We shall see in the long run if it holds up.

The welds were done with TIG 1/8" 2% Thoriated electrode and ER70S6 fill rod. Argon gas shield. Should not be an issue with the welds.

Wes M
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Joined: Fri Mar 27, 2009 11:01 pm
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Nice one Z... how far away are you from getting her on the road(track?)

zmech
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Joined: Thu Apr 23, 2009 4:39 am

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Finally got it running but will not idle. Was attempting to discuss that in another thread. But need to make an intake of some sort for it. Will post another thread to take in some options on making up an intake. Very restricted on space at this point. Hope to get it on the road by the end of the month depending on intake piping difficulty.

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Carl H
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you need to have the acc plumbed up else it will not idle worth a damn, this is true of almost all nissan engines.

zmech
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Everything is onboard except the filter. Seems that is my problem. These MAFs do like to be exposed to any air current other than the one they are creating.


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