Hey guys. So I just picked up a 97 QX4, 125k miles. Cosmetically in flawless condition. I previously had been a honda-head, in the performance scene for hondas, until recently the love of my life was stolen out of my indoor gated parking garage, and stripped to metal and wire.
About me? I worked as a tech at Firestone for a few years after getting my associates in Auto repair, now pursuing mechanical engineering, so the past year I'v been unemployed and away from the maint/repair scene.
I'm about to do a timingbelt/waterpump job on this vg33e, and I had a couple questions that haven't exactly been addressed after a few good hours of research. Can you experienced folks give me some insight?
-New water pump comes with studs. When I install these "studs", is hand tight good enough, before reinstalling the fan blade nuts?
-I'm not sure the compressor in my garage is capable of allowing my impact to run off that crankshaft bolt... just to verify when using breaker bar against the frame, engine operates clockwise from the front of engine, so i hold breakerbar under frame near RF wheel, correct?
-Is it possible to replace water pump with timing belt on? I was planning on pulling off the belt half way, cutting in half along the belt and installing new belt (assuming engine was in proper time). .
-how can i keep the engine from rotating when I reinstall the crankshaft bolt? I would assume its gunna wanna turn when I torque it with the wrench.
-How difficult would it be to pop off that harmonic balancer without a puller? I figured a rubber mallet could get it off, and I don't have access to a puller (without sourcing one from online).
Obviously this post is for more of the experienced folks, who could perhaps just give me some insight on personal experience with this DIY. Its obviously a job that shouldn't be f*** around with, as it can scrape valves/cylinders etc in the blink of an eye.. so I just wanted some verification before I jump in.
Please give me your educated opinions! thanks!
vg33e timing belt prep. (I'm getting back in the DIY game)
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DrivenDaily
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Sun Jan 05, 2014 1:53 pm
- Car: Infiniti QX4
Re: vg33e timing belt prep. (I'm getting back in the DIY gam
Rent the puller from auto parts place. I suppose whacking on it and prying it will eventually work.
Technically you can change the waterpump without taking off the belt but at that point it is right there...
Breaker bar and blip the starter works easily. I had mine inside the engine bay.
No need to worry about the engine turning when putting it back on.. at that point the belt is already set.
Watch the bolts as you take off the covers. Especially the very bottom bolt as you can crack the mount or grind on the balance
I strongly suggest taking off the radiator to give yourself a lot more room. Three hoses and two screws is all it takes
Maybe consider looking at some of my posts for the issues I ran into
Technically you can change the waterpump without taking off the belt but at that point it is right there...
Breaker bar and blip the starter works easily. I had mine inside the engine bay.
No need to worry about the engine turning when putting it back on.. at that point the belt is already set.
Watch the bolts as you take off the covers. Especially the very bottom bolt as you can crack the mount or grind on the balance
I strongly suggest taking off the radiator to give yourself a lot more room. Three hoses and two screws is all it takes
Maybe consider looking at some of my posts for the issues I ran into
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DrivenDaily
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Sun Jan 05, 2014 1:53 pm
- Car: Infiniti QX4
Re: vg33e timing belt prep. (I'm getting back in the DIY gam
thx for the advise. So far I was able to pull most everything off up until getting that crank pully off. I actually had some luck with the impact, despite the low pressure I was able to run the bolt off pretty easily..
I finally sourced a crank pully puller, like the only one in town for rent.
So far so good.. except after pulling off that top cover I saw the timing belt. Its hard to tell if it actually may have been already replaced. It appears to be in really good condition, with a part number on it.. Im pretty sure its factory, cause the water pump looks like its factory.
Side note, one of the reasons i'm doing a thermostat is cause it has a CEL for a p0125. From what i heard its commonly from bad thermostats, bad coolant temp sensor wiring, or sensor itself. Any experience with this code?
Car also has the evap charcoal problem as lots of these models do. (in my case the whole main line is clogged up and I'm not sure how to break the charcoal free so i can blow it out..) LMK if you have any suggestions.
Thanks again
I finally sourced a crank pully puller, like the only one in town for rent.
So far so good.. except after pulling off that top cover I saw the timing belt. Its hard to tell if it actually may have been already replaced. It appears to be in really good condition, with a part number on it.. Im pretty sure its factory, cause the water pump looks like its factory.
Side note, one of the reasons i'm doing a thermostat is cause it has a CEL for a p0125. From what i heard its commonly from bad thermostats, bad coolant temp sensor wiring, or sensor itself. Any experience with this code?
Car also has the evap charcoal problem as lots of these models do. (in my case the whole main line is clogged up and I'm not sure how to break the charcoal free so i can blow it out..) LMK if you have any suggestions.
Thanks again
Re: vg33e timing belt prep. (I'm getting back in the DIY gam
Yea clogged lines sucked badly..
First blame the previous owner for overfilling the gas tank. Second blame Nissan for designing the vent tube to allow raw gas to flow into canister when the owners overfill the gas tank. Third blame Nissan for using foam which is holding the charcoal inside the container which dissovles in raw gas over time.
You will need to go section by section on those vent lines usi g compressed air alternateing each end until they all flow freely.
Then you need to dissassmble the valve and hope you can clear all the stuff out. Then you need to replace the canister or install a fuel filter on it to contain the pellets from your current one. I saw one person put filter in the engine bay but I would install it before that stuff had a chance to enter the lines again.
Super sucky part is that the computer needs about 150 Miles before it will trigger a CEL so you can,t easily tell when it is working right
First blame the previous owner for overfilling the gas tank. Second blame Nissan for designing the vent tube to allow raw gas to flow into canister when the owners overfill the gas tank. Third blame Nissan for using foam which is holding the charcoal inside the container which dissovles in raw gas over time.
You will need to go section by section on those vent lines usi g compressed air alternateing each end until they all flow freely.
Then you need to dissassmble the valve and hope you can clear all the stuff out. Then you need to replace the canister or install a fuel filter on it to contain the pellets from your current one. I saw one person put filter in the engine bay but I would install it before that stuff had a chance to enter the lines again.
Super sucky part is that the computer needs about 150 Miles before it will trigger a CEL so you can,t easily tell when it is working right