Alright... here are the images:

















High res:http://www.machzracing.com/pic...2.JPGh ... ic...9.JPG

Thanks for the info on the distributor. I probably won't have to use it but definitely good to know just in case.

Looks great and definitely can't wait to see the results of the dyno. Be sure to keep us posted when the racing season starts as well!

Thanks for hosting the pics.We should be all set for monday dyno time as I have the day off. Holiday!

Love government jobs!

Any luck on the dyno today?

Yes!Did a post on the results but I guess it did not make it thru.?

I will post more details later.

good gains over the entire curve past 3.5k


Modified by bimrtech at 2:44 PM 2/20/2008

Awesome news. Can't wait to see the results from the races.

http://nasaracing.net/VIR_Feb_...8.pdf

car did great! Esp. since it was set up for a 1/3 mile oval. Spings are all different, shocks are too. I did not even align the car after tear down. The only change from circle track was moving the LF control arm to the inside of the mount to get rid of + camber at that wheel. Did not measure how much nor did I do ote or ride heights. There are several seconds left in this car. I really just wanted to see if it was at least capable of road racing, and yes it is!

Thansk for all your help. The car makes great power!

Joe

Very cool, glad to hear of the good results. Good luck with the racing!

I can spot a W-series block anywhere...and you got one, unless you are using W-series headgasket on a "former" block, which is fine but just threw my identification off.

I'm going to guess that this engine came off a hardbody or early pathfinder (87-89), and someone swapped the heads off an early VG30E Z31. You've got some hybrid there...where'd you get it? And I didn]t realize you were building a racecar. Can I get your email? We should feature your project! I'll try to PM you if I can figure out how here...not familiar enough with this forum.
Modified by Zdaddy at 12:37 AM 3/8/2008

Click on his username and that will bring up his profile with email address.

I sent him an email over a week ago. I would really like to feature bimrtech's racecar project on the main site, but I need some sort of one2one correspondence with him about it...this is the stuff that me and many others love to see done with a VG.

It can be via email, or I can give you a call and ask you a few questions.It'll be kinda like this http://www.vgpowered.com/index....html

I think it's awesome that you are using a VG30I for this Bimrtech....

wadaya say?

Cool you want to use my project!Never got any email from you ?????This is a very old ID I had from way back.Maybe I need to update my email address.

Car is doing great.Just need $$$ for tires.We buy 2 per night at 115 each.I'd love to give you any information you need.

Joe

zdaddy reply sent.

Well car is hurt. Not sure what it is yet, have not had time to diagnose. It is in the top end, runs great but VERY loud tick tick tick tick......It is so loud I don't want to start it up again.I am sure it is 100% my fault, I was running a bit high RPM. (Tires were too short in diam throwing my final drive way off) I think they are like 1.5" shorter than the Goodyears I am supposed to run.

What is the most you guys turn with upgraded valve springs?

With stock valve springs they say you should be able to hit about 7,000 rpm without valve float, not sure what you could take it to with... definitely pretty high though.

If its in the top end could just be a lifter, which would be easy enough to change out.

I took it to 7300-7400 I know it is too high, the car does not even make powerer there on the chart. Just a brain fart when driving it. My fault.The short tires really killed the final drive ratio that the car was set with for that track. It was only for a 5 or so laps as it was practice.

I too am thinking (hoping) it is a lifter.I will try to look into it further this weekend.Race is on the 12th

OK update on the car/season racing etc....

1st Lifters did not fix. rocker shafts did not fix. Did what I could without pulling down the heads. oh well.

2nd Circle tracks new rules state that you must buy 4 tires the first race then 2 tires each race after. All tires must be branded and bought and left at the track. I asked what would happen if I raced on used tires, well DQ'd no points etc before I even start. So screw them...

3rd Changing the car over to full road course. (More fun anyway)Pulling lead out of frame rails, changing the LF geometry etc...

So road course = do what I want engine wise. No rules..... What would you suggest if you were in my present situation? I found a 93 Pathfinder engine 9x,000 miles complete with intake FI setup etc... 3 hours away for 300 bucks. I really feel that this would be cheaper to use than any other repair on my present engine. This will also give me time to pull it down and properly look at the issue.

I have 15 days to get the car up and running.

I have some experiencewith MS fuel injection and think running the FI setup off the pathfinder would be a neat setup. I also hapen to have a MSII sitting around.

Would it be worth running over the TBI intake with Holley over the FI setup?

Will the TBI intake will work on the 93 heads?(fastest way to get going would be to run the carb on the 93 engine and worry about the MS setup later)

Turbo, can of worms here.Have experience with fab and tuning of turbo, I am interested in how this pathfinder engine would hold up with proper fuel, low boost and 25-35 min races. I know a drag run is for 10-15 sec, how well will a stock properly tuned engine hold up to low boost levels?Anyone have manifolds for sale??????

Thanks again and am interested to see what you guys come up with.

Joe

So I've been reading alot about this VG33E and have found a few on car-part

I just want to confirm that I can use the following

TBI intake from a VG30I on a VG33E. (I do want to eventually run the FI setup from the VG33E, this is just to get it up and running so I don't miss any events.

Dist. from the VG30 on a VG33 (VG30 Dist is set up for Crane stand alone ignition)

I assume the flywheel will interchange?

Will the valve springs and cam from a vg30 work in a vg33 head?

I know a lot of questions,

Thanks in advance!

As far as boost with the Pathy engine, it will hold up just fine with proper fuel. I know of quite a few with over 300 whp on stock internals, some approaching 400+ whp, and I know of at least one making 500+ on stock internals. I would be very confident it lasting at around 300-400 hp... 500 might be pushing it unbuilt for a race.

VG33 - all items mentioned should bolt on without any issues. There are minimal differences between the VG33 and VG30. The only issue people really have with them is the larger crank snout causing different accessory locations and such. Its becoming common place for them to just swap the cranks out with the VG30 and go from there (this is mostly for swaps into VG30 equipped vehicles).

Cool thanks, I have only been able to work on it 10 to 30 min at a time here and there. I am currently looking into building a muffler box to hook up to the exh pipe so I can actually start the thing. By the time I get a chance to work on it it is so late in the evening I can not start it up.

I think I will get another junk yard engine and run the carb set up until I can actually spend time looking into what happened to this engine. It will be good to have a spare anyway.

Sounds like a PF intake, MSII FI, and a low boost will be in the works this winter. Any recomendation on a good turbo (trim) for this aplication.The brakes will have to be upgraded prior to any of this as I don't want to die!

I think I can get the car down to about 1750-1800 pounds.I have removed a TON of lead.Need to get it on the scales.I will not need a bunch of power at that weight.

I deff. want to stay with the VG3XE as it looks to be a great engine.

For a relatively inexpensive turbo I kind of like the T3/T04E 50 Trim. They have a decent map that matches well with the VG up to nearly 480 bhp (though a bit inefficient in that range). It still runs through its peak efficiency at around 450 bhp so is a pretty flexible turbo. I believe http://www.cheapturbo.com sells them for right under $700.

If you were to go with a twin setup, I like the Mitsubishi 14B as a good low cost turbo and the 19T for a higher priced but even better matching turbo. Both would work even better on a VG33 setup.

The T04E definitely wouldn't be bad though as its quite efficient (peaks at 78%) and will bolt right to the stock VG30ET manifolds.

Ok, my wife let me work on the car tonight.This is big as I have a 2 year old and a 1 year old.I pulled the pass side head off and found the result of the noise.

1st measured .005" of play in the camshaft but let that slide, as I have no idea of what spec is. (Yes I used a dial indicator)Then I found some play in the exh valve/guide

After saying to myself this is bad but cannot see how that would make such noise I look at the top of the rear most piston. It has the exact outline of the combustion chamber indented in the top of the piston. The noise is from the piston smacking the head!

Tomorrow I may be lucky enough t to pull the pan and get that rod/piston out. I'll keep everyone posted.

On a side note, I sourced a 1986 VG30ET complete for 450 bucks.Is this a good deal?I do not plan on using it until this winter so should I wait or jump on it. I think a 1700 lbs VG30ET powered tube frame ride would be an absolute blast!

mtcookson, do you really think this will hold up for 30 min straight?

Joe

OK I know I keep changing my mind.I found a VG33E out of an xterra with 15xxx miles on it.I am going tomorrow morning to check it out. 700 bucks complete a good deal?

mtccokson,Hey man thanks for all your help.

I have another ? for you or all.I am going to get this VG33E tomorrow morning. (15k miles all acc. etc... 700 bucks)I have spent all day trying to find out if the oil pan and flywheel off my VG30E will work. Can you confirm? There is so much contraditing information out there. I think I am going to do a writeup on my personal findings for others to use. Way too many people answering questions with no concrete facts/no idea other than what they have heard on all the boards.

I did a cost comparison between rebuilding the VG30 I have and buying this one. 15k should not need touched for a while and it is a bigger engine. + it includes a FI manifold and an alternator.

700 bucks for the VG33 looks like a good deal.If I can get two years out of it that's only 350 a year and I am very happy with that.

Let me know what you think as I value your expert opinion! Joe

Well hate to keep replying to my own posts however I assume someone is reading this as it has reached almost 1200.

I have the VG33 now. Paid 450 for it with cats still on it. (they can be sold for 100 to 150 for the pair at a recyc. center) I will be partng all the acc off of it less alternator.

I have AC compressor P/S pump O2 sensors, misc other things. Let me know if you need something.

I will do a write up with pics as to the real differences found between the VG30 and the VG33 for those that care.

bimrtech wrote:Ok, my wife let me work on the car tonight.This is big as I have a 2 year old and a 1 year old.I pulled the pass side head off and found the result of the noise.

1st measured .005" of play in the camshaft but let that slide, as I have no idea of what spec is. (Yes I used a dial indicator)Then I found some play in the exh valve/guide

After saying to myself this is bad but cannot see how that would make such noise I look at the top of the rear most piston. It has the exact outline of the combustion chamber indented in the top of the piston. The noise is from the piston smacking the head!

Tomorrow I may be lucky enough t to pull the pan and get that rod/piston out. I'll keep everyone posted.

On a side note, I sourced a 1986 VG30ET complete for 450 bucks.Is this a good deal?I do not plan on using it until this winter so should I wait or jump on it. I think a 1700 lbs VG30ET powered tube frame ride would be an absolute blast!

mtcookson, do you really think this will hold up for 30 min straight?

Joe

On the holding up for the 30 minutes... with the VG33 I'd say at a medium power level in the 300 hp range it should do fine as long as tuning is good and you have a good cooling system. Really... what's nice about going with a turbo setup is you don't have to rev the engine all that much which is a bigger killer than power output really. Give it some boost, tune it good (maybe a bit on the rich side to be safe), and rev it to about 6k RPM and I bet it would last pretty good. I bet the higher powered VG's that are driven hard on the street probably see a bit more stress. I could be wrong but... I'm pretty sure I'm at least close.

bimrtech wrote:mtccokson,Hey man thanks for all your help.

I have another ? for you or all.I am going to get this VG33E tomorrow morning. (15k miles all acc. etc... 700 bucks)I have spent all day trying to find out if the oil pan and flywheel off my VG30E will work. Can you confirm? There is so much contraditing information out there. I think I am going to do a writeup on my personal findings for others to use. Way too many people answering questions with no concrete facts/no idea other than what they have heard on all the boards.

I did a cost comparison between rebuilding the VG30 I have and buying this one. 15k should not need touched for a while and it is a bigger engine. + it includes a FI manifold and an alternator.

700 bucks for the VG33 looks like a good deal.If I can get two years out of it that's only 350 a year and I am very happy with that.

Let me know what you think as I value your expert opinion! Joe

(this is the same reply I sent in the email)

The flywheel off of your VG30 will definitely work however the oil pan is a different story. The oil pan will bolt up but the oil pump itself is very different than the VG30 pump. I'll have to check the VG33 oil pump I have but, if I remember correctly, where the pickup tube bolts to the pump is in a different spot than the VG30's pump. Now, say the VG33 and VG30 both have a rear sump pan then it might be possible to use the VG30 pan with the VG33 pickup tube but I would measure it just in case (basically just turn the engine over, measure the height of the pickup tube from the block where the pan bolts to, then measure the depth of the pan from the flange. I would do this with the stock VG33 setup first then with the VG33 pump and pickup with the VG30 pan to see where they're at if that would even work).

Now, if the sump location is different between the two pans you could just swap the cranks between the two and use the VG30 pump and such. A lot of guys do this to swap into vehicles that came with the VG30 stock. You can still use the VG33 rods on the VG30 crank with the proper bearings.

bimrtech wrote:Well hate to keep replying to my own posts however I assume someone is reading this as it has reached almost 1200.

I have the VG33 now. Paid 450 for it with cats still on it. (they can be sold for 100 to 150 for the pair at a recyc. center) I will be partng all the acc off of it less alternator.

I have AC compressor P/S pump O2 sensors, misc other things. Let me know if you need something.

I will do a write up with pics as to the real differences found between the VG30 and the VG33 for those that care.

$450 for the one with 15k miles? If so... that's an incredible deal. Even $700 is a good deal for a 15k mile VG. All of the ones I've found around here in that price range have high miles... not that the high mileage is all that bad but 15k miles is just awesome.

As for differences, these are the ones I know off hand:

- Different oil pump (filter is actually bolted to the pump itself via a bracket thingy with tube thingies in it )- Crank snout is much larger than its VG30E brothers- Timing belt gears (cam and crank) and timing belt are round tooth (have higher mileage rating than the older trapezoidal tooth belts)- Standard VG30 oil filter location is still there but blocked off with a plate- Cams, I believe, are slightly "smaller" than most other VG30's- Pistons are of course larger (91.5mm for VG33 vs. 89mm for VG30) and are 8.9:1 compression vs. the VG30E's 9:1- Exhaust studs in the heads are 10mm vs. 8mm in the VG30 making them much, much stronger and much less prone to breaking, with the VG30 is known for- Slightly different head ports

Supposedly... I've heard that the combustion chambers in the head were larger. I'm not sure I believe this but if so... one could possibly use a VG30E head on a VG33 block to up the compression. If you happen to take the heads off, is there any chance you could "cc" the combustion chamber? If not, I'll do it as soon as I get my VG33... but that may not be until June when I get my stimulus check from the government.

Fired up the VG33!Sweet.

I also created a new post with the true diff. between the vg30 and vg33for those interested in this swap. It did require a little fabrication, mainly due to the fact that I had to use a 33 crank with a 30 oil pan.

Other than that-straight forward as mtcookson stated.Thanks again, hope to dyno it next week

Finally got to race the VG33 this weekend at the Hyper-Fest at Summit Point WV.It had great power posting the fastest lap time in the race group even though it ran out of gear on the 1/2 way down the straight!But like a dumb a#@ kept the old clutch of unknow mileage, and it started to slip halfway through the race.THIS engine kicks but compaired the the VG30 I had.I still have not dyno'd it, but lap times have come down in huge amounts with the repower. (Same lap times as my buddies with the VG30 at VIR, 3 seconds faster than them at Summit Point!) The engine block and heads were the only changes made.I wil try to dyno it in the next week or two.

Plans for future.....Will not be able to race it again until Ontober do to other comentments. (Will do track day in JULY but no race)We are running the 24 hours of Lemons in July if anyone in the mid-atlanticwants to help!

1st dyno engine with present combo. VG33 Block/Heads Schnider 270 cams headers vg30i manifold, holley 500cfm 2 barrel, statictimed dizzy.

2nd swap complete vg33e FI setup. Want to install on VG33 and run MSII for ignition/fuel management. I may also run Ford EDIS electronic Ignition. (Coil Pack) as I have the complete setup handy. Would be cool to run dizzy less ignition, no other reason than well its there.Already have MSII, Relay Board, and wide band in hand.I don't really need this for the track as it would provide a more complicated car, however I just want to see what the FI setup actually does over the carb and learn something,(even if its what not to do) in the process.

I'll keep yall posted!

Awesome news! Definitely keep up posted

just testing the waters.

I am thinking of selling this car. (two many projects in the garage) I know I will regret it in a few months.

If anyone is interested let me know.It makes a great road race car.4500 with all spares and trailer.Includes 16 or so tires, 6 wheels, 2 rear ends 4.11 and 4.88, spare Heads Block Crank etc....... Joe