VG30DETT n00b questions - bolts bolts bolts (front cover, plenum etc)

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brake
Posts: 2
Joined: Wed Jun 06, 2018 8:35 pm

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Greetings,


I'm helping my nephew reassemble his VG30DETT that's been apart, I'm curious if anyone has a picture of the front cover of one of these engines with all of the bracketry etc installed? The car in question is a 1990 and is RHD.

I've basically been given a pile of bolts and parts. I like to keep stuff organized but I'm kind of teaching as I'm going (nephew wants to learn to turn wrenches) and when I hand him bolts or nuts or small parts that I've taken out of something, they all go in his pocket or in the exact same pile, so it's a bit of a puzzle.

He also pulled all of the bolts for the plenum before I got there, pulled the crank angle sensor out *without marking it* etc etc.

I'm a technician but not one very familiar with these - I''m learning to speak Nissan as I go. I've had to replace basically every hose that I've touched so far...boost leak after pcv leak after oil leak..found loose hose clamps at the RH turbo inlet...anyway, if anyone has some pictures it would be very much appreciated.


plenum bolts - are there long/short ones? Will it all be painfully obvious what goes where when I sit the plenum back down and look at the bolts I've got left?

front cover bolts - long/short? Where do the brackets go?

crank angle sensor - How f*** am I since it wasn't marked before being removed from the engine? With the slotted bolt holes it absolutely looks like it needs to be clocked.

knock/detonation sensor - is there any replacing that without pulling the lower intake as well? Kid is convinced it's bad (he says that it had a code for the circuit or for performance? I didn't see it) and bought a new sensor. I have 0 interest in pulling the lower intake to fix something I didn't diagnose. I told him if all of the work we've been doing didn't fix the problem (bogging off idle, running VERY rich, horrendous fuel mileage) then I'd dive in and fix whatever knock/detonation sensor issue is there but I think everything can basically be traced back to the last person not tightening the clamp on one turbo and every single hose carrying boost or vacuum being 30yrs old and cracked or porous.


Also, both EGR tubes have quite a lot of build up in them, they may even be blocked up. I need to clear those out


Thanks for your time. I swear I'm not a hack. Sorry for the novel.


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NolimitZ32
Posts: 7042
Joined: Fri Jun 27, 2008 9:07 am
Car: 91 AG2 2+0 TTMT swap/E39 BMW 540i6/E53 4.6is Dinan S3
Location: Houston, TX

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You can find any and all pictures you need on google, I do it all the time when I need a reference. As for the plenum bolts there are 2 sizes which you can figure out by studying the upper plenum or by searchig for the factory service manual online, Nico used to host these but no longer can so google will be your friend again. Lucky for you the CAS does not need to be marked it only goes in 1 way so you're fine for re-installation.

itsa300zx
Posts: 1287
Joined: Sun May 31, 2009 9:39 am
Car: 1990 300zx NA W/TT swap
2011 Nissan Rogue S
2008 Highlander SR5
Location: up North

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Take a look and bookmark the Z32 wiki page.

Here is a procedure with pics of the plenum pull:

https://conceptzperformance.com/wiki/in ... ld_Removal

brake
Posts: 2
Joined: Wed Jun 06, 2018 8:35 pm

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Thanks all. Very helpful. With any luck the thing will fire up when I head over there tomorrow.

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DCaff300ZX
Posts: 4202
Joined: Sun Jun 14, 2009 8:18 am
Car: .
1993 CRP TT- Modified
Location: Tacoma, Washington

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brake wrote:
Fri Jun 08, 2018 11:31 pm
Thanks all. Very helpful. With any luck the thing will fire up when I head over there tomorrow.
Seems that your first questions are covered, here's some more to consider.
Generally it's best for the VG's to repair and replace with OEM, but in some cases not recommended. The VG's both suffer greatly from corrosion (the "green crud") of the various connectors in the engine bay, mainly the injector connectors and PTU harness, CTS, CAS, and IACV. The O2 sensors can fail or become inconsistent and cause issues, replace them. The EFI harness also gets brittle and can cause issues when moved, and EGR and knock sensor have issues as well. Most likely you will need to address this all to get the car running again as these issues will also be present underneath/in conjunction with current issues, especially EGR and knock sensor since you mention them and possible issues there. If a thorough cleaning doesn't work or connectors are broken (common), upgraded connectors and components are a must here and all commonly found at our better vendors such as Z1, CZP, and Specialty Z.
In addition the fuel system runs at a very high PSI and therefore the various controllers and such there need to be maintained in good condition or replaced, and the hose clamps need tightening every spring as the weather warms and they become loose...a VERY consistent problem. The IACV is also WELL-known for failure and idle issues, new replacement is the only surefire fix there, and with the new upgraded harness (NOT OEM) as well.
Oh, and with things all torn down the 120K service becomes important if it hasn't been done within the correct service cycle (common), given the VG30DE and DETT are interference motors...
GOOD LUCK!


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