brake wrote: ↑Fri Jun 08, 2018 11:31 pm
Thanks all. Very helpful. With any luck the thing will fire up when I head over there tomorrow.
Seems that your first questions are covered, here's some more to consider.
Generally it's best for the VG's to repair and replace with OEM, but in some cases not recommended. The VG's both suffer greatly from corrosion (the "green crud") of the various connectors in the engine bay, mainly the injector connectors and PTU harness, CTS, CAS, and IACV. The O2 sensors can fail or become inconsistent and cause issues, replace them. The EFI harness also gets brittle and can cause issues when moved, and EGR and knock sensor have issues as well. Most likely you will need to address this all to get the car running again as these issues will also be present underneath/in conjunction with current issues, especially EGR and knock sensor since you mention them and possible issues there. If a thorough cleaning doesn't work or connectors are broken (common), upgraded connectors and components are a must here and all commonly found at our better vendors such as Z1, CZP, and Specialty Z.
In addition the fuel system runs at a very high PSI and therefore the various controllers and such there need to be maintained in good condition or replaced, and the hose clamps need tightening every spring as the weather warms and they become loose...a VERY consistent problem. The IACV is also WELL-known for failure and idle issues, new replacement is the only surefire fix there, and with the new upgraded harness (NOT OEM) as well.
Oh, and with things all torn down the 120K service becomes important if it hasn't been done within the correct service cycle (common), given the VG30DE and DETT are interference motors...
GOOD LUCK!