It's a 1990 300zx N/A. I checked for spark, theres spark, i swapped the coilpack with a good one and still #6 isn't working. I did the trick with the screwdriver on the injector, and i can hear the TWAK TWAK sound but it's a lot lower than it is on a good cylinder. Somoene on the Z32 forum said to check the resistance of the injector with a multimeter. I bought one but dont know how to use it for ****. The coilpack connector is good, since there's spark, so it leaves off the injector or the injector connector (i didnt do any compression tests, but i dont think thats it). My question is, how do i get the connector off the injector without breaking it? How do i use the multimeter after that (i got Craftsman from sears. Thanks for any info

On the connector there is a metal clip than you need to slide off which will then allow you to pull the plug off. What I usually do is get two small tip, flat head screw drivers. With one I'll lift the back of the metal clip so that it goes above the plastic tab holding it in then I'll push on one of the ends and it will slide out. Now, if the intake and everything is still installed that might be a bit difficult to do. I've never done it on a DE(TT) before so can't recall off hand how much room there is to work near that injector. If I remember correctly you might at least have to remove the balance tube for easier access.

As for the meter, you're measuring resistance so you need to switch it to check Ohms, which uses this symbol: ΩYou're looking for a range between 12 and 14 ohms so you'll need to set the meter to read within that range as they usually have a wide range. It will probably have the option of going up to 20 ohms or similar so just set it there and if the resistance isn't between 12 and 14 ohms there's likely an issue.

I checked out some Craftsman multimeters, looks there is an analog one with two settings, X10 and X1k. If that's the one you got, set it to X10 and look for 1.2 to 1.4 ohms on the gauge.

Thank You very much, that is the info i was looking for. I have a quick question though. There's 2 probes one black and one red, so just so i do this corectly. I insert the red one into the metal connection at the connector and the black one into the metal connection at the injector? Thanks a lot

For the injector resistance check touch one probe to one prong on the injector and the other probe to the other prong on the injector. Color wise doesn't matter for this particular test, just as long as you're testing the two leads out of the injector itself.

I might add the multimeter needs to be on the Ohm's setting, Not voltage. Set it to the lowest ohm range, Usually 0 to 200.

Ok, so now i know what metal clip you we're talking about, i'll have to fabricate one out of some paper clip or soemthing, koz it flew off. As for the resistane reading, someone will have to explain it to me. I unplugged the injector connector and touched the injector prongs with the probes and got a reading of 1 on every setting. Turned on the car, same reading. I mean i don't really understand why you said to do that, but i did it anyway. Since it was unplugged, there was no electricity going through it, so that's what i kinda expected. Correct me if im wrong. As for the injector connector i did this:Click on the vid to see the me go through the settings and how it reacts:http://s29.photobucket.com/alb...4.flv

Any ideas what that means? thanks a bunch

ok, just read a little about measuring resistance, im gonn agive it another try tomorrow,. So it doesn't need to be connected to power source at all, i'll give it a shot tomorrow. thanks

Injector:I go from 2000k down to 200 and it says 1, then i go back up and when i switch it from 2000 to 20k it says 15.0x to 16.0x. Is that good?Connector:It just says 1 all across, but im not sure if it works for the harness? Opinions please and what should be my next step? I think i'll have to fed ex some beers to you

Set it to 200 ohms and put the probes on the two plugs of the injector itself. The harness you're testing goes back to the ECU and won't tell you anything about the injector.

yoozef wrote:Injector:I go from 2000k down to 200 and it says 1, then i go back up and when i switch it from 2000 to 20k it says 15.0x to 16.0x. Is that good?

im a noob, im gonna re-test it, but it said 1, so i guess that mean it's bad? Im gonna check one of the good ones to see how they check out. Worst case scenerio is im gonna have to pull off the plentum, any good articles on how to DIY? I read something about EGR delete, what else is there to take care off while doing so? thank you very much

Ahh sorry about that, I missed that part.

If the meter stays at 1 that means there's no connection, which if that's happening at the injector could mean:1. the terminals are too corroded for a good connection (very possible)2. injector is completely fried... which isn't likely

I'd take a very small head screw driver and some electric cleaner and be sure to clean off the terminals real good. You should be able to lay the probes on and get a reading without any force or rubbing. Once you get a good connection it will better be able to tell you the condition. Its very possible that if the terminals are corroded that could simply be your problem right there.

As for plenum removal procedures this is a pretty good article: http://www.twinturbo.net/nissa....aspx

the injector is dead... i checked one of the good ones and it's at 12.0. Cleaned the bad one and it's still 1. I guess im gonna have to pull the plentum, thank you for the link it shouldn't be too hard with the write up. As to my previous question, what other things can i do with the plentum off besides egr delete? Is it easier to put aftermarket headers on or it makes no significant difference? Thank a lot mtcookson, you're the man

Interesting... I'm actually surprised the circuit is completely open like that. Oh well, at least we found the culprit!

As far as other things to do, EGR delete would definitely be easier with it off. I wouldn't be surprised if it would be a tiny bit easier to do headers simply because of the width of the plenum, it would free up a bit of extra room to work.

I would definitely inspect all of the hoses, make sure none are overly hard or brittle. Also, I can't remember for sure but I think the knock sensor may be under the plenum. If so, I would definitely inspect it and probably change it. You can get pretty good deals on OEM Nissan sensors on eBay for about $50, just be sure to get a true Nissan sensor.

Thanks a lot man, i'll definetely look into all that. This car was kept in extremely good condition, so i was pretty sure it wasn't the harness, i'll update this thread once i put it all together, or if i need any help,