Removed EGT, PRVR, AAC, AIV and FICD solenoids.
Removed upper plenum and deleted the water and vacuum lines, capped all lines.
Removed PCV valves and plugged intake.
Put blockoff plate on back of intake, drives side where something square bolted to it.
Removed and blocked EGR ports on bottom of intake.
Removed fuel computer. Running a walbro 255lph pump that comes on with the ignition switch at 40psi.
Running custom exhaust (its about 2 feet of pipe from head to muffler)
Running custom intake. Dual K&N conical filters with dual MAFS, Selin adapter in "add" mode, dual 3" intake piping for about a foot and into the throttle bodies.
New timing belt.
I've wired up a "switchboard" to temporarily get the thing running. When I first started I had a code for CAS and ignition circuit. Cleaned the connectors on both and the codes went away.
Just to double check I ohmed out the new style PTU and it checked out ok. Did a continuity check on the sub-harness and it ohm'd out okay as well.
Grounded the plugs on the intake and there is spark, however it appears orange and not blue like I expected.
Put an LED in the injector harnesses and it flashes as I crank, so the injectors are getting the signal to fire. Double checked by turning the CAS by hand and I can hear the injectors clicking.
The fuel temp sensor is not being used right now, but I put a resistor in there to simulate midrange voltage.
Pin 16 on the ECU has a 10k pull-up resistor in place to bring the wire to 1 volt like the service manual says it should be at. I'm not using this wire to activate the ignition and ECCS relays so its just kind of sitting there.
Shot all the wires from the coils to the ECU and they all OHM out at 640 Ohms.
Shot all the wires from the injectors to the ECU and they OHM out to like 2 ohms.
All injectors ohm out to 12 ohms (old style injectors)
Pulled the oil pan, cleaned it out, installed new gaskets, filled with new oil, pulled a vacuum on the old filter to "prime" the pump and cranked until I got oil pressure. Replaced oil filter with new unit.
Checked all the ground pins on the ECU and they ground out correctly.
Checked all the +12 pins on the ECU and they checked good.
Brand new Bosch battery, fully charged.
Pin 43 (start signal) is wired directly to the starter solenoid so it goes to +12 when you hit the starter.
Pin 45 (ingition) is wired into a +12 source that goes hot with the ignition switch.
Right now there are 4 vents open on the engine, two on the back right corner that should be running to the PCV valves, and two up front, one coming out of each valve cover. that go below the throttle bodies. All 4 are just open to the air right now.
So now that you know everything about the motor, I don't think its getting fuel. I don't smell anything like fuel coming out the exhaust and the plugs are dry as a bone. If all 6 injectors ohm out correctly, is it possible that they're all still clogged or not working right? I am planning on upgrading next year to new style injectors, but I just want to get it running before I dump more into it. I'll do a compression check tomorrow, but I think its a fuel thing at this point. Does anyone have any ideas on what to try next? This is frustrating me to no end, so any ideas would be great.
