Very specific DIY Turbo installation questions! Need "experts" help!

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
MarkEmark
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Let me first off say that the kit I purchased was from a guy who no longer answers his phone or emails, so I cannot contact him....and the pictures he sent me of the kit installed on his car are all very small, low-resolution pictures. So basically, i'm installing this kit with no instructions and I'm running into some blocks...I need the *experts* help, ie, orion, c-kwik, WDRacing, DavEEE, and whoever else I forgot.

1.) Can the two lines going from the throttle body to the evaporator canister stay where they are under boost?

2.) Does anything special need to be done to the PCV system, such as the PCV valve? I already have the connection from the valve cover going to the intake side of the turbo....

3.) Do you have to leave the vacuum line connected to the stock fuel pressure regulator when using an aftermarket (bosch) one?

4.) Where does the small vacuum hose that used to connect to the stock air-intake pipe right near the TB go, and what does it do? I know it's part of emissions control and that it's not under vacuum, but I'd like to know exactly what it does so I can either forget about it or run it over to the intake side of the turbo.

5.) Open the following link of the fuel pressure regulator I received, and tell me which is the inlet and which is the outlet!(If you rotated the picture 90 degrees to the left, then the FPR would be "right side up," ie, you could read the words "Bosch"

http://24.59.111.91/pichost/pic/112-1201_IMG.JPG

Thank you very much in advance!

Marc


MarkEmark
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Ehhhh....it's kinda urgent...anyone? I'd really love to get this thing running today!

:: orion ::
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1) I removed mine for simplicity...but I'd bet they're fine seeing boost.

2) I would also disconnect the PCV rather than have it vent into the turbo intake, but that's fine the way you have it - As long as it does not see boost.

3) Dunno - Haven't ever messed with aftermarket FPRs...but it would restrict the flow as it neared 0 vacuum, and them even more at boost came on...so I'd disconnect it - Run that factory vacuum line to the new FPR.

4) EGR BPT valve I think, but again, I removed it for simplicity...

5) The OEM regulator has the inlet at the base of the FPR, opposite the vacuum/boost feed - I'd bet this one's the same - So the inlet has the rubber tube on it in the pic, and the return line to the tank is the open one (from the pic). [Think of the way they work - As vaccum goes to 0, the spring in the regulator pushes down more to make the pressure go up - As boost comes on, it pushes harder on the diaphram and ups the pressure more...so it make sense the inlet/restrictor is opposite the vacuum feed.]

Good luck! - Brian

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WDRacing
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Basically what Brian said, either way will work for question 1. Either way will work for question 2. The stock FPR still req's the vacuum line. The throttle body vac line on the bottom gets plugged.

Let us know how she runs.

WD

MarkEmark
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So the black rubber hose is the inlet...and the return line is the "open one"...but there are two...the one on the far right or the one pointing down perpendicular to the rest of the unit?I have a pic of it below, i sitll gotta disconnect the stock vacuum line from the OEM regulator, and I'll connect that up...

So you just disconnect the OEM vacuum line from the OEM regulator? Is that it, or what else do u have to disconnect from the OEM regulator? Sorry for these really stupid questions, but again, I got no instructions with this kit, and I've never messed around with the fuel on my car...(everything else, however, i have :)

She's just about done for now...I'm gonna rig up some piping from the compressor side to the TB while I'm waiting for an intercooler, and run it at 5 psi, i'll keep y'all posted.

Marc:ylsuper

MarkEmark
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Ahh, well I guess it would help if i posted that picture, eh? Here she is:

http://24.59.111.91/pichost/pic/112-1208_IMG.JPG

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WDRacing
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The stock FPR needs vacuum....the RRFPR will need vacuum as well. So you'll need a new vacuum source or a T fitting.

WD


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