s13sickboi wrote:yes the water getting in the sparkplug holes will cause misfiring and extreme hestitation...
i remember when i was repairing an altima and had the whole front off, and it rained and snowed then finally i got the car done and went to test drive it was backfiring and hesitating and i was like, s*** wtf did i break! so i did the routine check, first thing was the spark plugs so i take off the wires, and the hole is filled with water! took a air compressor and blew the water out and no problems after that...
your going to have to figure something out to keep out the water in the future
I was thinking of doing the same thing today. However, I won't be able to do something til Thursday, as I work until then. However, it's supposed to clear up late Wednesday night, so at least that'll be done for the next round of rain. I just hope the car doesn't stall out on me on the freeway on the way to/from work these next 2 daysAZhitman wrote:^ That won't help in this case.
One of the locals has a vented hood - He made an aluminum shield that attaches to the underside of the hood with velcro. Slaps it on for rainy days, it diverts the water away from the engine.
rsmithdrift wrote:Yes that could have been the cause of the problems... The maf is the main engine control component and if it's wet it wont work properly and when it doesn't work properly neither does your engine.
Your ECU figures its a/f ratio by it's MAF voltage reading. If it shorts out it'll read less voltage and tell the car to give less fuel. Less fuel means lean and that causes very bad hesitation and stalling.
I would make a flange to keep the water from draining. If it's that kind of vented hood. I REALLY need a picture to be able to best advise you how to make a permanent solution that requires no maintenance and retains the funtionallity of the vents...
That's simple. My idea of a flange was intended assuming this design.21nemesis wrote:rsmithdrift wrote:Yes that could have been the cause of the problems... The maf is the main engine control component and if it's wet it wont work properly and when it doesn't work properly neither does your engine.
Your ECU figures its a/f ratio by it's MAF voltage reading. If it shorts out it'll read less voltage and tell the car to give less fuel. Less fuel means lean and that causes very bad hesitation and stalling.
I would make a flange to keep the water from draining. If it's that kind of vented hood. I REALLY need a picture to be able to best advise you how to make a permanent solution that requires no maintenance and retains the funtionallity of the vents...
Here you go:
It's the forward most vent. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for your insight. I'm on my way outside now, to see if the car will start up first of all. I tried it last night after the rain stopped; the car turned on for about 10 seconds, then sputtered and died. I'm hoping it doesn't do the same today. And I will be getting on that flange ASAP.rsmithdrift wrote:That's simple. My idea of a flange was intended assuming this design.
Ok. All you need to do is get a strip of metal, paint it black if you wish. And 3m double sided body work tape (exterior molding tape) The strip of metal needs to be thin and easily bendable and cutable and the same length as the hole. And about the same hight as the hole is. Bend it at a 90* angle length wise. This should bisect the strip perfectly so it is now only half as tall as the hole when the flange you've now created is under the hood. Now here's the critical part. FIND A SPOT UNDER THE VENT HOLE WHERE THIS WATER CAN DRAIN SAFELY. Once you've found that spot, cut a small square notch in that part of the flange that will stick up to create a lip on the lower edge of the hole, you need to make the notch go down all the way to the bend so that water can be captured by the lip and drained through the notch you created. Depending on the size of this lip you've created you may need two holes spaced far apart. Once you've got it ready to install, apply the 3m tape to the top side of the flange that will be under the hood and apply preassure to it to attach it to the underside of the hood. Use a heat gun (hair dryer) to activate the tape properly and permanently. You now will have a lip on the lower edge of the vent that will catch the water running down your hood and drain it in the spot you chose safely and allows you to still retain your hood vent while only loosing a small portion of its total size. A little moisture may still come in during a dounpour due to water splash/wind etc but it wont be enough to add up to anything. The main problem here is clearly the water running down the slope of the hood and draining across the entire length of the vent and on important electronics so you are doing this to make it drain in only one (or two if needed) spots where it is safe for it to do so and wont damage anything.
This is the simplest and most effective way I can think of to keep the vent functional and remove the water issue that wouldn't involve a removable cover.
Any questions let me know.
rsmithdrift wrote:unplug your MAF then start the car and run/drive it and tell us what happens. I bet that MAF is no good. Like totally shorted out from water in the circuit board... Maybe you should take it out of the car and let it dry off for a while before you try putting electricity through it again.
If your lucky water is in the terminal shorting it out and when it dries completely it'll be fine. But it could have fried a wire or a connection inside of it and in that case you'd be out an MAF.
BTW what you just described in your last post is a malfunctioning MAF problem. My z did this as well as my 240. My 240 also had an MAF failure in a different way but that isn't relavent here.