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Sentientbydesign »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/sentientbydesign-u25395.html
Wed Jan 21, 2009 11:25 am
Making the can
We're going to start by measuring and drilling the holes for the level.
Take a look at the picture. The red circles are where we're going to make the level holes. There are couple of things to consider here:
1) The bottom of my bottle was concave (green line-most will be). You want the lower level as close to the bottom as possible, BUT you don't want the drill bit or the elbow to hit the bottom of the can. As such, I estimated where the "floor" of the can was and drilled my hole above that.
2) For the sake of aesthetics and efficiency, you'll want the two holes straight. I did this by finding the label "overlap" (basically, they print on the cans and this is where the print overlaps itself).
3) The top hole should be below the tapered portion of the bottle (red dashed line). Otherwise you end up with a bent level.
Drill the holes
You're going to want to use a drill bit that is the same size or just SLIGHTLY larger than the outer diameter (OD) of the elbow.
Once the holes are drilled, you can use sand paper or a dremel grinding bit to debur the edges. You'll also want to remove about a 1/4" radius of paint off of the bottle (so the epoxy will stick).
Test Fit
Take the two elbows and put them into the holes. Then measure out the length of clear hose you'll need. Be sure your measurements include the area that overlaps the barbed fitting and not just the distance between the elbows (I did this )
Cut the hose to size and install it on the barbed fittings.
Epoxy putty
I love this stuff. It is very strong and has a pretty high heat rating. The way this stuff works is it has an outer layer of putty and an inner layer of putty. When the two are kneaded together, they start reacting. Since the two have a specific ratio, you'll want to use a knife and cut off sections of it (think of slicing bread).
Only cut off enough for 1 fitting at a time (this stuff hardens very quickly, so you don't have much time). Knead the putty until it's uniform in color, then roll it into a small "snake" that's just long enough to go around the elbow.
Note: It's better to make the "snake" too short, than too long. When it's too long, it has a tendency of buckling and you don't get a good seal.
Put the "snake" around the elbow and make sure it's tight, then stick it into the hole. The goal is to get some of the putty into the hole. Once it's in, press on the putty firmly to build the mount around the elbow. If you want it to look nice, you can wet your finger and smooth out the putty before it hardens.
I pressure checked and "vacuum" sealed the putty by sucking air through the mouth piece and covering the other hole. This isn't the most technical method of doing this, but it serves two purposes:
1) To check for a good seal.2) To make a good seal...Say what? "Make" a good seal?---Yes, when you apply vacuum to the bottle, the putty will be drawn into the bottle and will fill in any gaps, making a very tight seal.
Repeat this process for the second elbow.
This is the point at which I'd stop working on the can and let it sit overnight. You don't have to, but it makes life easier, because the epoxy will be cured the next time you work on it.
Making the Baffles
This is the hardest part of the whole project. You'll need to take an aluminum can and cut out the flat vertical portion. BE VERY CAREFUL. It will cut you!!!
Try to salvage as much of the flat part as possible.
Once you've cut it, you'll need to get your utility knife out and start cutting vents.
Here's a good template:
3.25" x 2" (a little wider won't hurt). Black rectangles need to be cut out. Black triangles need to be cut out. Solid lines cut. Dashed lines folded.
You want it to look like this:
For the record: I HATE diet sodas. Artificial sweeteners are the anti-christ!
More to come...