Vehicle not even crank "sometimes"?

A General Discussion forum for cars and other topics, and a great place to introduce yourself if you are new to NICO!
User avatar
carloslebaron
Posts: 307
Joined: Wed Mar 23, 2011 4:51 pm
Car: 95 Nissan pickup XE

Post

I have my old 95 Nissan pickup manual transmission, to which I have replaced the water pump (was leaking), replaced the oil pan gasket (was leaking) and the front oil seal (also leaking), so the oil pan plastic protector cover is dry since the repairs have been made.

Still, there is a problem that happens from time to time since a year ago, and is when the engine won't even crank when I turn the key on ignition.

I have checked the entire internet looking for answers, and after reviewing several forums and places like Yahoo Answers, I have observed the several causes and solutions given by experts and amateurs.

I have found that many Nissan owners have this problem, and that after replacing the ignition switch, the starter solenoid, the starter itself, the relay, etc, they have noticed that such solutions didn't work or were temporary. another solution was to run a new Negative cable from the battery to the motor, and so forth.

I ended in a website where it is shown that the mysterious problem is the Nissan Positive Cable Block, the one that comes from the manufacturer. According to this site -sorry I lost the link- this block that holds several cables going to the positive of the battery, loses its characteristics and won't allow to pass the entire amount of power, it will become like a loose wire that sometimes will work and sometimes won't.

The link shows the measure of the battery as almost 14 volts but the measure between the battery negative with the block connector positive gives about 5 volts. I will buy a voltmeter to check mine.

The recommended action is to replace the positive cable block by a standard one acquired from any auto parts store.

I will follow the advice, because sometimes I must have to try the ignition three or four times and the truck seems to be dead - not a single sound is heard- but trying again after a few seconds the truck starts...and because this solution is cheap...and because after 17 years of use, the replacing of electrical connectors is not a bad idea after all...


User avatar
nissangirl74
Moderator
Posts: 13910
Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2009 1:15 pm
Car: 2014 Xterra Pro4X, '12 Titan 4x4, '98 240sx, '89 Pao, '77 620, '72 240Z w/RB25, '68 510, '67 WRL411, '67.5 SPL 311, '63 Bluebird, '63 NL320

Post

Just out of curiosity, how old is the battery?

User avatar
Jesda
Posts: 39644
Joined: Mon May 05, 2003 1:50 pm
Location: STL, DTW
Contact:

Post

On my 91 Saab and 92 Cadillac, the cause of this intermittent issue was the starter. Had it replaced.

User avatar
carloslebaron
Posts: 307
Joined: Wed Mar 23, 2011 4:51 pm
Car: 95 Nissan pickup XE

Post

nissangirl74 wrote:Just out of curiosity, how old is the battery?
A year and a half. By the way, the battery is another part that several Nissan car owners replaced to fix the starting problem, and was an unnecessary measurement. This mysterious starting issue, according to what I have read, has caused to some Nissan car owners to sell their cars...I understand them, sometimes is scaring the complete silence as a respond when you want to start your car.

I never was in need of a DC voltmeter, I have used the AC one all my life, I am not in a rush to fix this problem because is sporadic, it happens from time to time. My guess is a loose connection somewhere or a poor electric contact -as suggested by the website), but my vehicle is a 1995 and no way to scan codes in specific to locate a certain zone and identify better the problem.

I will check first the power as suggested by the website, this is to say, the negative battery against the positive battery block connector with a DC voltmeter. If the problem doesn't lie here, then I will start checking deeply the fuses, wires, terminals, etc...If no problem is detected, then I might perform the testing of the starter switch and so forth...I just don't want to spend money in unnecessary replacing of parts...and about buying a DC voltmeter...it never hurts to buy inexpensive tools...

User avatar
ZOMG.SR20
Posts: 2703
Joined: Sat Mar 29, 2008 5:12 pm
Car: 1990 s13
Contact:

Post

so do you need help or have you even diagnosed this yourself?? go thru the entire starting system with a multimeter.... then check that the starter has the right amps going to it and make sure theres no resistance thru the starting and charging circuits

User avatar
NolimitZ32
Posts: 7042
Joined: Fri Jun 27, 2008 9:07 am
Car: 91 AG2 2+0 TTMT swap/E39 BMW 540i6/E53 4.6is Dinan S3
Location: Houston, TX

Post

I can with 90% certainty say (if I understand what you wrote correctly) that your main ground is corroded on the inside and is starting to lose its conductivity, the only way to truly test this is to do a "voltage drop test" read up on the procedure for this test, try it out (you'll need a friend to make it easier) and get back to us.


Return to “General Chat”