VDC SLIP AFS lights

[daveM45]

Nothing special triggered it. Just started on the way to work one morning
VDC OFF - on
SLIP - on
AFS OFF - blinking

Rear pads were overdue and saw a few related entries about checking pads/brake fluid.
Replaced pads, turned rotors and inspected all the sensor cables while I was doing it. Nothing obvious. Fluid normal. Same issue.

Any ideas? Does this need any type of reset?
Thanks

[Ilya]

I thought it would be the pads or fluid, but you already checked that.

Not entirely sure...hopefully one of our more knowledgeable electrical dudes chimes in soon for ya.

[Larz]

I haven't had this issue, but I remember reading that the causes of this were reported as 1) brake fluid needed flushed or 2) loose battery connection. Hopefully someone else has more ideas.

[debiniarthug]

Have you figured out your blinking AFS light issue. Mine just started blinking. I changed my LB bulb and two days later the AFS light starts blinking. I'm thinking the connector got hung up on something. I hope the motor didn't burn out.

[BlackCat81]

Was the C1155 (low brake fluid level) code cleared after the brakes were done? The AFS relies on several factors to work correctly, and in some cases won't work with history codes stored. Steering angle and wheel speed sensors factor in. I'll have to check assist, but I believe you have to be going 15mph for the right headlight to move. If you have a faulty wheel speed sensor, it can disable the AFS system.

[The00Dustin]

15mph is for the drivers side light to turn left. Passenger side light should turn right at 0mph.

[James-4-Prez!!]

I had this same issue with mine, but it took me down an entirely different path than what you are hearing right now. All the same lights came on but the car would shutdown without warning, then when I tried to restart it would turn over longer than normal before starting. I found out it was a faulty cam angle sensor. I replaced them both and that fixed my problem. I don't know your level of mechanical expertise but your best bet is to see what code you are throwing and if possible fix it yourself, or take it to someone who can. Your codes tend to act as a road map to where you need to start.

[daveM45]

I borrowed one of the generic OBDII readers which claims to show manufacturing specific codes. It shows no codes. I tried a reset anyway. Showed successful. Lights still on.

The M service manual doesn't even mention this combination - although I wonder if AFS off replaces ABS light. Is there some special Nissan specific reader required or should any ODB II compliant be able to pull the codes?

[The00Dustin]

Generic ODB II compliance is for emissions. The check engine light will come on if there are emissions codes. The other codes need a computer compatibly with the proprietary systems of the car in question (in this case, a Nissan Consult tool). Unfortunately, I can't be of help regarding the question or the light problem, but I hope my explanation of your lack of codes clears up some confusion.

[mikew83]

If you've checked the pads and brake fluid, my money is on a faulty ABS sensor... This happened on an old Maxima, I35, and my Q45. You won't know for sure unless you take it to the dealer or find a shop that has the Nissan Consult 2 tool like ^ Dustin said above.

[LouCast]

I had this same problem, remove your front wheels, and check your front ABS sensors. Chances are that they might be the fault. The rear ones rarely go bad, and they are located at the axel shafts right by the differential. The front sensors see a lot of debris from the road and heat from braking, so they might be the culprit. I changed my front driver side sensor and it cured the problem for me.

[LouCast]

I had this same problem, remove your front wheels, and check your front ABS sensors. Chances are that they might be the fault. The rear ones rarely go bad, and they are located at the axel shafts right by the differential. The front sensors see a lot of debris from the road and heat from braking, so they might be the culprit. I changed my front driver side sensor and it cured the problem for me. Here is the way I figured mine out.

Within 5-15 seconds of turning on the car (motor running), press the up on the cruise tab 5 times and then down 5 times, on your cluster you will see a series of numbers pop up on the LCD which states what gear the car is in. Once you have those numbers go to this link http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/M/2006_M45-M35/acs.pdf and scroll down to ACTION TEST section which will explain the error code.
And just to make sure, you can try to clear the code while it's still running by pressing the cancel button 5 times and then the distance button if you have the Intelligent cruise control system. If done correctly a number 55 will blink in the LCD section of the gear selector indicator. Turn off the car and re-start it and go for a drive above 19MPH and the lights will turn off and remain off if there is no fault, if the fault is still present the lights will turn back on until the error is fixed. It's how I figured what my problem is.

[daveM45]

thanks for the replies. Got it resolved if anyone is interested...

LouCast's method didn't work on my 2007. I think its inexcusable that infiniti (and other manufacturers) don't let you pull this information up under a maintenance menu but that is another rant.

A light snow in Nov let me test out what worked. The AbS seemed to work fine and the under-steer correction worked as well so front brakes ok. Over-steer correction and traction control were disabled so I would of expected a problem with a rear sensor. I can live without the other nanny's but with no real limited slip diff and no traction control that leaves me with one wheel rear wheel drive for winter. Didn't work for even a dusting of snow.

Finally made it to the dealer a couple weeks ago. They are a 3 hour round trip for me and just didn't have the time to get there earlier. Verdict was steering sensor - SWI-25567-EH125 and 47945-EH100 ($750) about $1200 total with labor. Doesn't seem to be common as they mentioned it was rare and not in stock. What steering angle has to do with traction control and rear brakes is a mystery to me. In any case, its fixed.

That was my first out of warranty repair but with that one repair my M went from the lowest maintenance car I've had over 8 years to average. Whether or not I buy a new M in the next few years will likely be dependent on if I hit more problems.

[Ilya]

Ouch...

[Costee]

Good you got it resolved. Would have been nice though if you had elicited the codes from them.

[cruzad3r]

just so i'm clear - there was absolutely no code other than the crazy lights on the clusters?

[Costee]

just so i'm clear - there was absolutely no code...

Are you quoting the workshop?

[tbright]

I have the same lights- Slip, VDC, and AFS Blinking.

O'Reilly Auto Parts scanned and told me I had :

C1156- Steering Angle Sensor
P1815- Mode Switch
P0615- Starter Relay Circuit

I'll probably hit the rear brake pads first just to be safe. Brake fluid is at max.

Something is clicking and whining so I assume that is the Starter Relay or Starter? I can't seem to find a part number for the starter (aka ignition) relay.

Steering Angle Sensor TBD- I'd rather not spend $1200 to turn off a dash light when there are no other symptoms.

[EdBwoy]

I have the same lights- Slip, VDC, and AFS Blinking.

O'Reilly Auto Parts scanned and told me I had :

C1156- Steering Angle Sensor
...
Steering Angle Sensor TBD- I'd rather not spend $1200 to turn off a dash light when there are no other symptoms.

Assuming your alignment is still good, all 4 wheels/tires even, then you just might have a bad angle sensor... and you don't have to spend $1200.
https://forums.nicoclub.com/topic619955 ... e%20sensor