Vave springs and shims Supertech

[komete]

I'm currently rebuilding my my head and will be rebuilding my short block later to go KAT. I'm looking around for valve springs and came across some Supertech Valve Springs that come with retainers and spring seats. I really like these springs. I want to get them but I was wondering about shims later on. Do they make shims that go with them? I haven't been able to find any.

I know on my old vavle springs I was getting a lot of clatter from my valves and I'm almost certain it had needed to be shimmed. I'd hate to build this motor and have it come out with that annoying tick.

[komete]

Never mind I found my answer on KAT.org. Just get some shims from the dealer. 8 to 12 bucks a pop. May check with a machine shop and see if they can do any better.

[Brandon93240]

If the machine shop sets up ur head they can do it with the shims u already have, they can cut the stem to the correct clearance allowing u to not have to get new shims.

[komete]

Thanks a lot. I wanted to do all the work myself, learn as I go, but maybe it would be better to let them sit the valves.

[WDRacing]

If the shop has the head, they can match the shims EXACTLY in size, rather then measuring by hand. Trust me, a few thousandths can mean a few whp. Not to mention a decent street port at the same time would be a great combo.

I assume you're doing bigger cams as well?

[komete]

I assume you're doing bigger cams as well?

I won't act like I'm a know it all and try and noob myself past you. I'm guessing you referring to camshaft when you say bigger cams? I was hoping to utilize all my stock head parts except for springs and related items. Keeping my existing camshafts and valves if possible. Either this week or next week I'm taking my head in to have it hot tanked and have the valves bead blasted as well so I can judge the shape of them.

My plans for rebuilding my motor is, rebuild kit including oil pump. Keeping the stock pistons and getting knew rings. Having my block hot tanked and honed. My crankshaft polished. Also making a custom water to air intercooler that will be the intake manifold. I'll probably have my piston rods shot peened also. Oh ARP head studs since I'll probably get shot if I don't

I have a buddy of mine that will be teaching me to weld and help me with the custom intake manifold.

I want to do it right and I'm not afraid of spending money but I can't say I have unlimited funds so what I do has to be justified. I'm willing to sacrifice a few ponys here and there if it means saving some money and not effecting over all reliability. HP goals are a modest 250 to 300.

If you have any suggestions or things I should especially do now while the engine is apart I'm all ears.

[Brandon93240]

Even though its been proven that stock blocked ka's can push more than what ur goals are I would still consider getting a set of pistons. They are cheap insurance really. I have the supertechs in my s14 and I haven't had any problems for the power I make(around 420-430whp), and I believe they still maybe the cheapest or close to the cheapest aftermarket set. I got a deal on the valves, spring kit, and pistons so I saved a butt load. I'd just hate to see u spend the time and money to crack a ringland on the stockers. What other parts are u using?

[WDRacing]

I'd swap rods before the pistons...

No sense in modding any of the head if you're just gonna keep the stock cams.

[Brandon93240]

I had a set of rods hold up to 400 with no problem, but with the texas heat I have it would have melted the poop out of stock pistons with the tune I had at the time. To each his own I guess, but considering I've had ringlands so bye bye on not just my own but a friends too, I'd still do pistons over rods.

[WDRacing]

Avoiding knock allows you to keep the stock pistons...lol. I'm in Tucson AZ, it's 105 here in the summer and I tossed a rod.

[Brandon93240]

Yeah but not everyone has a fuel/timing setup to avoid detonation, plus with gas grades being so ****ed up ur not always getting 93 octane and in my state we make our gas. Rods do come apart no arguement there, but for the average person builing a ka I think they have a better chance of busting a ringland or lifting a headgasket than tossing a rod. To each his own, it'd be great if everyone could afford to build a nice bottom end but not everyone can, for a newb I see pistons going before they get to the hp level of rods coming apart. I've never seen anyone have a rod failure under 300 hp, although I'm sure that someone has, but with a zillion miles on some of these builds something has to give. I know fiznat's engine came apart and a few other guys but they were in the 380 and above whp range. Btw I wish houston had the same heat arizona does, its so much nicer than our humidity, u feel like ur in an oven all day.