Valvoline Maxlife synthetic blend

[Lokim]

My '94 Q45 has almost 200K on it, and I'm hoping to get it to 300K. The oil is pretty clean, when I got the car 1000 miles ago I checked the oil level and condition, and was pleasantly surprised. The oil was full and it was a beautiful, clear honey-brown, not all black and nasty. It is still nice and clean. I'm not a huge fan of synthetic oils, as conventional has been getting the job done just fine for over 100 years. I do recognize some of the advantages though, and was curious if anyone has experience with, or an opinion on, Valvoline's Maxlife synthetic-blend oil. I just bought some 10W30 and a Bosch oil filter (Fram, Micro-Guard? No thanks!) and wanted a few opinions before I did the deed. It had an HLA tick when I got it, but about 4oz of MMO in the oil cleared that up within a couple of days. Let me know what you think...

[Infinitiguy19]

So much has changed when it comes to engine oils (That I have learned in the past month). Mobil 0W-40 and others (Wish I could remember) are the only Group 5 true synthetic oils. Pennzoil ultra is said to be the best oil money can buy over at Bob Is The Oil Guy. I have not tried it but I heard that BITOG is a bit biased.

Mike has been telling me to use Marvel Mystery Oil and the only reason I never do is because of this story. My dad goes to his mechanic friend of 10+ years. Said friend tells him to put some MMO in his engine and leave it in till the next oil change (~3000 miles?). Engine lasts so long till the valve seal lets go some how and destroys the piston and cracks the block. The FWD V6 engine is a dime a dozen so my dad replaces engine and never used MMO again. Hell I am not sure what he would do if he saw me with it.
Sorry for the thread jack but I hope somebody could answer why the above would happen to a idiot like me.

And I am also weary of MMO because one of its chemicals according to the Material Safety Data Sheet is said to be bad for the bearings, Q45Tech said that. But thats if MMO is used often I am not sure of what one use will do and I am sorry if I upset you Texas Oil if your still around and see this post.

By The Way I have tried 2 BG Quick Clean (109) flushes (not in a row) and it has done nothing but MAYBE clean some varnish. But the HLA tick is still there.

I have used Purolator, Mobil 1, Valvoline and some other filter I can't remember. I am using Mobil 1 0w-40, Valvoline 10W-30 oil and some more and my HLA tick is still there. I have heard Amsoil 5W-30 or 40 is better and cures HLA tick says (BadQ45t).

I am sorry Lokim because I think I have asked more questions than answered.

[elwesso]

I used to use synthetics and then I just decided to use castrol GTX or whatever was on sale and replace with a decent filter every 3-4 months (actually been like 5 months since my last oil change, but only like 2000 miles).. plus the plenum is coming off my car next week for an injector thats flaky..

In the end, its probably a wash for using synthetics, changing it half as often but paying twice as much, but I like getting under the car 3-4 times a year to make sure everything is all good..

[elwesso]

BTW, when they say "synthetic blend" that literally means its got SOME synthetic oil in it, not necessarily a 50/50 mix... Needless to say, usually its not worth it because its still mostly conventional...

[qship96]

So much has changed when it comes to engine oils (That I have learned in the past month). Mobil 0W-40 and others (Wish I could remember) are the only Group 5 true synthetic oils. Pennzoil ultra is said to be the best oil money can buy over at Bob Is The Oil Guy. I have not tried it but I heard that BITOG is a bit biased.

Mike has been telling me to use Marvel Mystery Oil and the only reason I never do is because of this story. My dad goes to his mechanic friend of 10+ years. Said friend tells him to put some MMO in his engine and leave it in till the next oil change (~3000 miles?). Engine lasts so long till the valve seal lets go some how and destroys the piston and cracks the block. The FWD V6 engine is a dime a dozen so my dad replaces engine and never used MMO again. Hell I am not sure what he would do if he saw me with it.
Sorry for the thread jack but I hope somebody could answer why the above would happen to a idiot like me.

And I am also weary of MMO because one of its chemicals according to the Material Safety Data Sheet is said to be bad for the bearings, Q45Tech said that. But thats if MMO is used often I am not sure of what one use will do and I am sorry if I upset you Texas Oil if your still around and see this post.

By The Way I have tried 2 BG Quick Clean (109) flushes (not in a row) and it has done nothing but MAYBE clean some varnish. But the HLA tick is still there.

I have used Purolator, Mobil 1, Valvoline and some other filter I can't remember. I am using Mobil 1 0w-40, Valvoline 10W-30 oil and some more and my HLA tick is still there. I have heard Amsoil 5W-30 or 40 is better and cures HLA tick says (BadQ45t).

I am sorry Lokim because I think I have asked more questions than answered.

Just to clarify for future lookers, Mobil 1 in 0w-40 is a group 4 PAO baseed oil {true synthetic} , while most, if not the rest of the M1 line is group 3 highly processed mineral based oil {legally can be called "synthetic" in USA} Very, very few group 5 ester based synthetic oils available, Redline and some Motul are two of them, possibly Eneos also. Pennzoil Platinum and Ultra are just overhyped group 3 based products.

[Infinitiguy19]

guys just my 2 cents,
from newer owners as well as using non - standard oil filter. I believe techguru did a write up on this, not sure if it was here or on yahoo board. Using aftermarket filters changes oil pressure and hence could cause this symptom. Extra maint now wont make up for earlier neglect - sorry!
MMO - i have used this in the past on other cars - i add it to the gas tank, I have added it to crank case, but only where oil was black, (and then only overnight before my oil change)- again if your engine is clean this product is a waste of money. My car had 95 k and I use no additives whatsoever as i have no oil leaks and i dont want any,

Rob

I want to know more about the OEM filter VS others (After market). I am searching for "Oil Filter" and member "Q45Tech" and so far I found 234 matches and 6 pages worth of reading. And from 1/2 way through first page I see that he changed the filter every 90 days because of its limited capacity to hold dirt and the oil as well. New oil has a lower viscosity than worn oil (2-3K miles). And of course make a graphs of oil pressure VS coolant temperature making sure the warm idle is 650 RPM's at minimum, For a oil pressure test.

For the typical average driver in lower 49 states changing oil and filter every 90 days/3750 is much more protective than using a premium filter and changing full synthetic oil every 6 months and 7500 miles.

Since the demise of 60u00 I've just switched to the Y series seems to work ok for the last 4 changes but at 318k everyday is a prayer.

Q45Tech-post3565187.html?hilit=oil%20filter#p3565187


MMO is said to be almost if not completely useless in the tank. Proven by chemistry some have said to have felt a difference with not scientific testing to back them up.

[Q45tech]

When you exam the specs of high/maxi life oils you find they are just thicker than minimum viscosity.

A trick where 10w30 becomes 10w34.9 not enough to round up to 40.

[qship96]

I have 5 of the super heavy duty special designed for g50 q45 15208-60u00 oil filters left.....would part with them for $75 each for anyone wanting one to for their vh45de ! Perfect for the collector who will show his Q45/ 300zx twinturbo in auto shows of the future to get extra points during judging for originality!!!!! The line starts here......

[Infinitiguy19]

When you exam the specs of high/maxi life oils you find they are just thicker than minimum viscosity.

A trick where 10w30 becomes 10w34.9 not enough to round up to 40.

Plus other additives?

I have 5 of the super heavy duty special designed for g50 q45 15208-60u00 oil filters left.....would part with them for $75 each for anyone wanting one to for their vh45de ! Perfect for the collector who will show his Q45/ 300zx twinturbo in auto shows of the future to get extra points during judging for originality!!!!! The line starts here......

Well played sir!

[elwesso]

Man I will see that and raise you 4... I dont think I've used one of the 60U00's in 2 years...

[qship96]

Now only 4 left........

[Q45tech]

All the more reason to reduce the 90 days to 81 days to compensate for inferior than oem oil filter.

[NightRiderQ45]

All the more reason to reduce the 90 days to 81 days to compensate for inferior than oem oil filter.

Highly doubt that!! The newer oem q45 filters are horrible!! I've even posted pictures of the filter cut open! Cardboard endcaps, flimsy cardboard pleted filter element...no better than a cheap Fram! Maybe the older Q45 filters were built like a tank, but obviouly Nissan chose to cheapen the filter and my pics were proof. If you don't believe me, search it. I'll take a Purolator Pure One, Wix, Bosch, and even Napa Gold over cheap OEM filters ANYDAY!

To the OP, Val Maxlife is a great oil but like already stated, it's mostly dino base oil so it isn't worth the extra dollars IMO. Look at their MSDS http://msds.walmartstores.com/cache/665284.pdf As you can see, Maxlife Syn blend is composed of 80-90% dino oil and 10-20% synthetic per bottle. You don't know the specific blend in each bottle but according to the MSDS, best case you will have 20% syn and worst case 10% per bottle. I buy 5qt jugs so using best case scenario, that would only be 1qt synthetic and 4qts dino. Umm, I'll rather purchase full synthetic.

[Q45tech]

Hope members realize by oem I was speaking of a oem filter {Japanese made] that hasn't been available for years. The current made in US oil filter should be opened and compared........warning take anti nausea meds first.

[NightRiderQ45]

Ok, well it's great that you pointed out the difference. The new filters are horrible built but I don't know bout the older version.

[Infinitiguy19]

If anyone wants to get an idea of the actual cardboard filter check this NOT WORK SAFE FILLED WITH LOTS OF SWEARS AND IS NOT A VERY SCIENTIFIC VIDEO out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gSKj-SbR ... r_embedded#!

[OwnerCS]

All the more reason to reduce the 90 days to 81 days to compensate for inferior than oem oil filter.

Highly doubt that!! The newer oem q45 filters are horrible!! I've even posted pictures of the filter cut open! Cardboard endcaps, flimsy cardboard pleted filter element...no better than a cheap Fram! Maybe the older Q45 filters were built like a tank, but obviouly Nissan chose to cheapen the filter and my pics were proof. If you don't believe me, search it. I'll take a Purolator Pure One, Wix, Bosch, and even Napa Gold over cheap OEM filters ANYDAY!

+1 for Wix or NAPA Gold. Actually I found the last four numbers of the NAPA Gold filter number to be the same as the corresponding Wix filter number.