valve seating procedure

[180fan]

Ok I want my valves reseated (doing a full rebuild so why not I figure) but not totally clear on the valve seating procedure. If it's too complicated I'll just send off the head to a machinst and fork over the cash, but that's something I'd rather not do if I can do it myself. Anyone care to help me through this process by explaining how it's done to me?

[s13sr20chris]

valve seating?replacing valve seats sucks! a machine shop needs to do that(and one you trust). luckily it is prob unnecessary.lapping in the valves is easy. you take the valve and put a small dot of valve grinding compound on the contact face(where it seals with valve seat) and spin it both ways with pressure on it. they sell a tool for it. it is wood with a suction cup on both sides. couple bucks at sears. be sure to not get ANY(not one little drop) in valve guide or valve stem seal. that stuff will eat up valves, seals, guides, and everything if there is any on it when the motor runs. you dont want to overdo this. the idea is just to freshen up the contact faces of the valve and seat. you dont want to kill the pretty angles on the valve. the fsm even shows what the valve angles should look like so you dont go too far. this process is very important if you ever put new valves in her.

by the way, did you go with phase2 for your valve stem seals? since i am back to rebuilding my motor i am going to get them.

also remember when going back together.intake side: guide in back shim in frontexhaust side: guide in front shim in back

[180fan]

lol thanks for the reminder man. Damn when I blew up my piston #1 from a bent valve from a flying rocker arm, man it's alot of work. But on the plus side, I'm redoing everything. New bearings all the way through, still debating on new pistons and rods, ARP'ed everything I could get my grubby mits on, nitpicked at details with a fine tooth comb this time. Doing all the valve train work too so I'll hopefully never have to open up the motor again.

Oh yeah, gonna place the order for those valve stem seals soon enough. Gonna switch out the guides if they're not up to snuff. Possibly from tomei, but I haven't decided on that yet, nor have I started the head inspection yet.

I'll get the compound for sure, probably first though, clean up the valves, spritz some machinist dye on the head, and see how the contact is. If it's all pretty uniform, I won't bother with the grinding compound and move onto the valves that do need it.

thanks again man, you're always a real help to a guy in need. Like I said before man, I'd send you at least a 6 pack for the help you've given me, it's seriously appreciated.

[s13sr20chris]

no problem bro. just keep me up in the engine news!

question: when you blew up a piston, did it tear up the cyl walls? hopefully not. i am just wondering because i am about to pull the head off of mine(when i have time) and i dont want to see scars on cyls. i just ran the rings slam out on piston 4. had a dead miss and i kept driving.

[180fan]

yeah unfortunately the cylinder walls were scored, and the head looked like it was afflicted with the pox...so had to source a new shortblock, got it for 200 but had spun bearings. Which I didn't mind at all since I had enough parts to rebuild that motor safely and was going to order everything, bearings, rings, seals, gaskets all over again for the build on this motor.

Since you're still able to run your motor, mine simply would not run anymore after i blew up the piston since the cause of the blown up piston was the end of a valve that was knocked out, hence the carnage I spoke up above. But might be something you wanna look at when you're tearing down the motor. I'll take some pics for you later and post them up so you can have a look see.

thanks again man

[s13sr20chris]

no prob, pics of mine will be available also if i ever turn a wrench on it.