valve covers and oilpan

[jsmithspeedracer]

My na 92 300zx is so fun to work on. Leaking oil at the valve covers and oil pan makes me almost wish I got a another car. When I did the clutch and rear main seal, I took off the metal housing around the rear main out to clean the mickey mouse silicone and busted the brittle oilpan u ring. Couldnt compress the new oilpan gasket and with the trans out couldnt drop the subframe to reseal the oilpan. So I modifyed the gasket and smeared silicone eveywhere and its been holding up for 3 months.

So anyway which is better for an oilpan reseal- the rubber one peace gasket or the u rings and silicone?

Also has anyone done resealed valve covers- that giant intake kinda scares me any advice or things to watch out for? Thanks

[t.mcginley.jr]

When I did mine I used silicone + the two U-shaped gaskets for the front and rear. I took the oil pan off, got all the old silicone off of it with a drill and wire wheel, resealed it with copper RTV and put the new front and rear seals in. As long as you put a nice blob of silicone on the corners of the U-shaped gaskets it will be fine.

The valve covers aren't too hard either. Once the intake plenum is off, the valve covers are just held on with screws. The intake valve covers get a nice easy rubber gasket, but the exhaust covers are just silicone so you need to clean all the old silicone off. When you go to reseal them, make sure to put silicone around the VTC solenoids on the back of the intakes and the half moon seals on the exhausts (you should replace them while your at it http://www.z1motorsports.com/product_in ... cts_id=512)

When you go to put the intake plenum back on, the easiest way is to buy some studs from home depot or lowes that match the actual bolts. Then you can just sit the paper gasket where it needs to be and lower the plenum down onto the studs, that way its perfectly lined up. Then just take out one stud at a time (they don't have to be in tight at all) and replace them with the actual bolts. Then just torque everything down. I'm not sure of the actual size of the stock bolts for the plenum but you can just take one with you to match up. If you have a helper to put the plenum on you don't need to use studs you can just put two bolts in while each of you lowers it from one side.

[Ace2cool]

When you go to put the intake plenum back on, the easiest way is to buy some studs from home depot or lowes that match the actual bolts. Then you can just sit the paper gasket where it needs to be and lower the plenum down onto the studs, that way its perfectly lined up. Then just take out one stud at a time (they don't have to be in tight at all) and replace them with the actual bolts. Then just torque everything down. I'm not sure of the actual size of the stock bolts for the plenum but you can just take one with you to match up. If you have a helper to put the plenum on you don't need to use studs you can just put two bolts in while each of you lowers it from one side.

That's some golden advice.

And the service manual says to do exactly what he said to do as well. Solid post.

[jsmithspeedracer]

Just banged out the oilpan last weekend dropping the subframe was fun. Had to remove the oil filter housing to get the bellhousing bracket to drop the pan it takes a paper gasket got an orielys gasket maker kit, noone had the gasket and the dealer was a special order. Had to pull the steering column to rack and pinion bolt to clear the oilpan, guess the rack dosent go on one way steering wheel is crooked. Its all sealed up nice now besides the crooked steering wheel. Intake plenum gasket was special order too still waiting. Noone stocks parts for this car!

[t.mcginley.jr]

You gotta buy online dude! RockAuto, Z1motorsports, CZP, Import Parts Pro, etc.