Valve Cover Gaskets

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96'er
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Well the time has come where I can no longer stand the smell of burnt oil off my exhaust system and replace my tired old valve cover gaskets, 103K miles.

Can anyone tell me what the price is for the gaskets and where to order them from?

Thanks.


RAP
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95 post and you haven't seen ALL the ads for Nissan parts that decorate your screen? AND ALL the recommendations for http://www.infinitipartsUSA.com or ALL the talk about the main GUY, JOE who is the MASTER of ALL parts for our cars? ? ? WITH a telephone # of 888 216 5328, a free call.

Where ya been?

Jack

RAP
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Yeah, all the above plus when that abusive poster named MAXNIX or mononix or maniacnix gets a hold of yo AZZ you'll really catch it fo sho

Jack

maxnix
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Probably at least 20 different threads also.

Joe is the guy. Get the half moons also. Be aware that the special metal Jbacked rubber washers are probably hard and deformed. No one seems to replace them, but it is ~$160 for all of them.

Difficult to imagine one achieves correct torque with old, hard and deformed ones.
Modified by maxnix at 9:30 AM 3/15/2008

96'er
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The purpose of the post was to find out from other members who is the best biz/person to buy from, so not to recreate the wheel, so to speak.

Got a hold of Joe and he hooked me up on what I need. Maxnix, thanks for the heads up on the washers.

Haitian_King
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maxnix wrote:Probably at least 20 different threads also.

Joe is the guy. Get the half moons also. Be aware that teh special metal backed rubber washers are probably hard and deformed. No one seems to replace them, but it is ~$160 for all of them.

Difficult to imagine one achieves correct torque with old, hard and deformed ones.
I thought half moons are only for the 90-93 and they use a silicone gasket. The rubber washers are for the 94-96's as well as the rubber gaskets.

96'er
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I got the schematic for the '96 Q and the VC gasket is one piece.

Haitian_King
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96’er wrote:I got the schematic for the '96 Q and the VC gasket is one piece.
So no metal backed rubber washers? I stand corrected.

Mint Q45A
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A little piece of advise:

Make sure all parts are absolutely clean before you start re-assembling.

You can use some sort of RTV adhesive to pre-position and hold the gasket to the VC so that you can re-assemble it. Some autoparts stores carry the "grey" for "imports/OEM" - it works well.

You also need to add some a continuous bead to the head itself; pay special attention to the the "half moons" in the front - read the FSM - it is gives exact instructions about this part....

Word of caution: While trying to put the VC back in position (with the gasket pre-attached to it) it is very easy to hit the rockers and knock the back part of the gasket out of position - pay special attention to the passenger side. .... And if you are not aware, you will have an oil leak, very soon....

I suggest that once you have the VC in place and before you start tightening any of the bolts, you visually verify that the gasket has not moved out of position. You can use a mirror and (assuming you have removed the splash cover from the bottom of the engine) look up...It is worth spending the time now...instead of having to do the whole job again....

Good luck...and make sure you have some Motrin available...after you are done your back will hurt and you are going to need a few ....


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qsiguy
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Helpful info, thanks. I'll be starting this job shortly myself. Just a thought/question, why not pre attach the gasket to the head instead of the VC? Wouldn't that eliminate the possibility of the gasket getting moved out of position during VC reinstallation?

Also, so you recommend the use of RTV along with the gasket for the '94 model Q45? I thought I remembered reading that it you should use the gasket dry? Can anyone else confirm this?

oldmako
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For sure I'll get flamed for this but perhaps one guy will glean some benefit.

When I bought my car in NOV the pax side leaked a bit...not a ton, but enough that you could smell it. It was cold as hell and I was not in the mood to replace the gaskets outside in the lousy weather so I simply resnugged all the bolts. That was in NOV and 3 oil (M1) changes ago.

The leak has stopped. Will it start again....probably. But perhaps it will start leaking (or the gasket will be preemptively replaced) when I am ready to work on it.

I know it's aluminum engine and all that....I'm just suggesting that perhaps a slow leak can stopped or significantly slowed until one has the time or wx to get the job done properly. If I had yanked those covers off in cold weather there's no way that I'd have had the dexterity or determination to reassemble that mother correctly.

I have been watching all the VCG threads to absorb info for when I take the plunge. Thanks to all who added valuable information.

Q45denver
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I retorqued the bolts on my 1995 and it significantly slowed down the leak. Probably wouldn't hurt to apply a little RTV as well when replacing.

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Q451990
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I think retorquing is ok as long as you don't go amazon on it. Remember that you're dealing with aluminum - so a torque wrench is the way to go...

Heath

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qsiguy
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Tried that myself. Unfortunately I'm beyond that point on my car, didn't help.

maxnix
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qsiguy wrote:Tried that myself. Unfortunately I'm beyond that point on my car, didn't help.
Yeah, the reason it's leaking and retorquing may be possible is the gasket has lost its elasticity. Why retorquing is so dangerous and why the gasket must be replaced. With earlier RTV, I wouldn't even think of retorquiing.

NightRiderQ45
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oldmako wrote:For sure I'll get flamed for this but perhaps one guy will glean some benefit.

When I bought my car in NOV the pax side leaked a bit...not a ton, but enough that you could smell it. It was cold as hell and I was not in the mood to replace the gaskets outside in the lousy weather so I simply resnugged all the bolts. That was in NOV and 3 oil (M1) changes ago.

The leak has stopped. Will it start again....probably. But perhaps it will start leaking (or the gasket will be preemptively replaced) when I am ready to work on it.
If it worked for you I wouldn't even worry about the "getting flamed" issue. I had an issue with my VC gaskets leaking after the switch to M1. I changed out the pax side, but couldn't change out the driver's side because I wasn't informed that I needed the IAC & TB gasket. Well I've purchased those and I'm ready to change it now. Well, I've swithed back to dino Mobil Clean 5000 oil and I don't smell the oil anymore. Yes, I still will change the VC gasket, but I can wait until I have more time now.

I didn't benifit from M1 because my OCI was still 3-4k miles. Speaking of oil, after visiting the Bob's the oil guy website, everyone there states that Penzoil Platinum is the best synthetic to use with long OCI and they have UOA's to back it up.

96'er
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A lot of good information to absorb before diving into another lenghty maintenance job, last job was the KS at when all said and done took 10 hours with all the proper tools.

Got to get a hold of Joe tomorrow and get my parts now that the weather is getting warmer and the days longer.

maxnix
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NightRiderQ45 wrote:I didn't benifit from M1 because my OCI was still 3-4k miles. Speaking of oil, after visiting the Bob's the oil guy website, everyone there states that Penzoil Platinum is the best synthetic to use with long OCI and they have UOA's to back it up.
How does the engine know which lubricant it contains? The best oil is always fresh oil. It all detiorates from condensation, blowby, heat. Synthetic just has a better performance envelope.

What do you think the lower leak rate at the valve cover gaslket is telling you about cold start and operating temperature viscosity?

UOA vary from engine to engine due to tolerances and condition. Like 0-60 mph times, they are not universal nor absolute indicators for any other engine.

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elwesso
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personally I just threw the gaskets on dry, no RTV. A little RTV may not hurt, probably a matter of preference...

If you're over half way to a spark plug replacement, throw 8 new plugs in! You wont want to go back in there after you get done with that.

superuber
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If the gasket is hard retorque is only buying you small time. As far as putting the gasket on the head, no. The gasket fits into the valve cover (94-96) you need to push it in place. as far as rtv, use a small amount around the half moons. Just in the corners though. Sometimes I use a dab around the gasket just to hold it on when installing. Wait till dry, install.

superuber
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HI WES!

Haitian_King
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elwesso wrote:personally I just threw the gaskets on dry, no RTV. A little RTV may not hurt, probably a matter of preference...

If you're over half way to a spark plug replacement, throw 8 new plugs in! You wont want to go back in there after you get done with that.
That's what I did. 8 new plugs for $104. I explained to Keith about the hose issue and he said that it would be best for him to just do the hoses I have now. He said that if he sees anything that needs to be immediately taken care of under the plenum, he'll just order the part for me. I spent about 5 hours at the shop just talking to Keith in between jobs and customers. It's a great place. I saw a 94-96 champagne Q that has been there since November. It had Delaware plates. Who's is it? Anyone on here?

NightRiderQ45
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maxnix wrote:How does the engine know which lubricant it contains? The best oil is always fresh oil. It all detiorates from condensation, blowby, heat
True, true, true. That's why I switched back to dino Mobil Clean 5000 which is a good oil. Since I love changing the oil myself, I can purchase a 5qt. of MC 5000 for $8.97 and my beloved SuperTech oil filter for $2.50 from Wally World. I can change my oil for $13 max every 3500k is great!
Haitian_King wrote:
That's what I did. 8 new plugs for $104.
Man, who "butt-raped" you for the cost of those plugs?! That's like $13 a plug. Advance Auto has the OEM plugs here for $9.97 and I've seen as low as $8.97/plug. Did you purchase from the dealer?
Modified by NightRiderQ45 at 7:06 AM 3/19/2008

DoinkMobb
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NightRiderQ45 wrote:I changed out the pax side, but couldn't change out the driver's side because I wasn't informed that I needed the IAC & TB gasket.
Hmmm...I wasn't aware that those gaskets were required either. I got the valve cover gaskets and the TB gasket coming. I wonder if the IAC gasket is included in the under plenum hose kit. If not, I guess I'll be stopping by my local Infiniti dealer to pick one up. Dammit.

NightRiderQ45
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DoinkMobb wrote:
Hmmm...I wasn't aware that those gaskets were required either. I got the valve cover gaskets and the TB gasket coming. I wonder if the IAC gasket is included in the under plenum hose kit. If not, I guess I'll be stopping by my local Infiniti dealer to pick one up. Dammit.
Yeah, I would have thought Joe knew exactly what gaskets I needed. Trust me, you do need it. I was upset because I took a day off from work and STILL didn't get the complete job done.

DoinkMobb
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NightRiderQ45 wrote:
Yeah, I would have thought Joe knew exactly what gaskets I needed. Trust me, you do need it. I was upset because I took a day off from work and STILL didn't get the complete job done.
Crap. Well, there are a few things I could pick up at the Infiniti dealer so might as well make a trip out of it. My parts should be coming in on Tuesday and I'm off all next week, so I should have enough time to get everything done and then figure out why the car won't start and then consult NICO and then fix what I screwed up by next Sunday night.

maxnix
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When you pull the plenum, you wiil proabably want the lower runner gaskets also.

Haitian_King
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NightRiderQ45 wrote:
True, true, true. That's why I switched back to dino Mobil Clean 5000 which is a good oil. Since I love changing the oil myself, I can purchase a 5qt. of MC 5000 for $8.97 and my beloved SuperTech oil filter for $2.50 from Wally World. I can change my oil for $13 max every 3500k is great!

Man, who "butt-raped" you for the cost of those plugs?! That's like $13 a plug. Advance Auto has the OEM plugs here for $9.97 and I've seen as low as $8.97/plug. Did you purchase from the dealer?

Modified by NightRiderQ45 at 7:06 AM 3/19/2008
Holman Infiniti of Maple Shade deflowered me on that one.

I was in a tight spot and had to bite the bullet. Advance Auto didn't have them and I called two NAPA places. Both only had the Iridiums. I paid $12.21 per plug, plus tax.

qship96
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Considering the $ you are saving by having them done along with the gaskets, consider the price you paid for the plugs MONEY WELL SPENT!!!!

Did you get your car back yet? Any updates for us????

DoinkMobb
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maxnix wrote:When you pull the plenum, you wiil proabably want the lower runner gaskets also.
When pulling the plenum you will need/want:- plenum gaskets- throttle body gasket- IAC gasket- EGR valve gasket- lower runner gaskets(?)- valve cover gaskets

Is this correct?

The under plenum hose kit comes with plenum gakets, are these the same as lower runner gaskets?


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