Valve Cover Gasket replacement gone WRONG. Please help.

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sanioll
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*Note: I have unadequate knowledge about engines. FYI.

Today i changed my valve cover gasket beucase it was leaking just a bit due to mobil 1 full synthetic.

When i put the screws back on, obviously i used a torque wrench. Used less then 10 ft/lbs.

3rd bolt, and every other side bolts like 3, 6, 5, 2, also #1 is kinda loose. They are not as tight as the corner bolts 7, 8, 9, 10.

i was turning the 3rd bolt and i was like WTF, why the torque wrench not clicking. I even set it to less then 10 ft pounds.

i took, 3rd one out and this is what i found. see pics below. middle one #1 bolt was also feeling loose so i didn't tighten it anymore.

Well, see the pics.
Modified by sanioll at 7:30 PM 4/1/2005


sanioll
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this is what came outta thread of the bolt when i took it out.

This is from the 3rd bolt. I took it out while every other bolts were on and tight.

pocket drive shown for comparison
Modified by sanioll at 7:24 PM 4/1/2005

sanioll
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and this is after everything is put back on. Once again 3rd bolt can be turned easily wiht a wrench. really easily.

sanioll
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So the question is, how badly am i screwed??

What can i do to fix it. How to make those side bolts to sit tight there, especially 3rd one??

Please help.

P.S. car has not been started yet. I am waiting for the RTV to form a solid seal. Will start in about 10 hours or so driving to work tomorrow.

Q-less
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Wow, something is stripped. Does it still leak oil? Wait.... sorry, just read your P.S. Slightly bigger bolt...there is a process where you can get it rethreaded if it is the female part of the thread. If its just the bolt I would just get another one, but not before I found out what caused you to strip it.

DAEDALUS
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Looks like someone already helicoiled it. If the helicoil falls out, you have to use a larger helicoil probably. There are a few options, none are sure-fire. E.g, you could bond the helicoil in place, but if you get adhesive on the inside of it, you're screwed again. Larger bolt, maybe ok, but then you're drilling out a larger hole.

Toddles82
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time to tap new threads on it and put in a new screw. Because you have a threadless hole right now.

sanioll
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i donno, if its leaking or not; car hasn't been started yet. I've done everything to the spec. Used rtv sealant really well at those rubber plugs etc...

this 3rd screw is loose enough to sccare me.

The bolt is fine. its the metal that came outta head. i thought heads were steel in a ka24de??

so what u guys saying, leave like that for couple days to see if it leaks, then try a bit larger bolt??

sanioll
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Toddles82 wrote:time to tap new threads on it and put in a new screw. Because you have a threadless hole right now.
How?? Price?? Can i do it myself?? Once again HOW??

sanioll
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more pics

sanioll
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...

sanioll
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lll

Q-less
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The rethreading option shouldn't be that expensive <$50 at the most. If it were me I would eyeball another bolt that has the thread width seperated slightly larger and see it it bites. But again, find out why this happened or you may just do it again. It must have been something you did while retightening or you should have noticed the looseness while backing them out.
Modified by CherryPoppinQ45 at 8:09 PM 4/1/2005

240marcuSX
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yeah, youve stripped out several holes in your head, get them re-tapped, not a big deal.

sanioll
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do i have to take out the head and take it to the shop, or simply drive the car.

Becuase there's no way i'm taking the head out!!

Toddles82
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nah you can rent the tap and die (or dye) kit from Autozone. If you are afraid to do it a mechanic should be able to do. Will be cheap. Don't freak. It's really no big deal.

Like someone else said previous owner probably did that and you are dealing with his "quick fix".

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BadMojo
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Toddles82 wrote:nah you can rent the tap and die (or dye) kit from Autozone. If you are afraid to do it a mechanic should be able to do. Will be cheap. Don't freak. It's really no big deal.

Like someone else said previous owner probably did that and you are dealing with his "quick fix".
I wouldn't call it a quick fix. I'm not sure why the Helicoil failed, but using a Helicoil in that application should be fine. Hell, it'd be overkill. There's a pitiful amount of torque applied to those bolts, so a Helicoil should do the trick quite easily if it's used properly. Helicoil kits are pretty damn cool.

For what it's worth, I've got one completely stripped and another that's got *some* bite left to it. My valve cover oozes ever so slightly. I'll fix it this Summer. Car hasn't blown up yet. It's not like the valve cover sees pressurized oil.

Lt.Mike
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This happened to me recently and I did the fix-up myself and it was really easy. Here are the procedures on what to do and what you need.

Equipment to have1) Power Drill, (or borrow one from a friend) w/ a 1/4" metal purpose drill bit.2) Helicoil kit (Fr. any automotive store, just bring a valve cover bolt and they will match it up correctly) IIRC the Helicoil inserts are M6x1. 3) Tap Wrench (If the kit does not come with one)

Procedure1) Remove Valve Cover2) Enlarge hole of striped threads w/ 1/4" bit being careful not to fly metal shavings into Crank Case (Don't ask me how I know).3) Use Tap-Wrench and Tap Bit to make new threads for Helicoil Insert. Having some motor oil on the bit helps a lot.4) Clean out shavings and insert Helicoil Insert5) You are done : )

Just be patient and it will be done. Hope that helps.

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BadMojo
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Lt.Mike wrote:2) Enlarge hole of striped threads w/ 1/4" bit being careful not to fly metal shavings into Crank Case (Don't ask me how I know).
Eh, they can just keep all the other little chunks of metal and plastic company down there.

Anyway, as for the metal shavings I think a little bit of something like wheel bearing grease on the drill bit should catch a lot of those errant shavings.

I'm 99% sure that a real Helicoil (the brand name) kit comes with everything you need...except the drill, of course.

sanioll
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i know 3rd bolt is loose, and is it okay to leave like that, if the valve cover isn't leaking?? well tomorrow i will find out if its leaking or not. gotta wait for those rtv gaskets to solidify.

thanks everyone for your quick responses.

lesson of the week: when something works dont change it or touch it. I switched to mobil 1 from regular valvoline 10w30 and look how much crap i have to do now.


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