Valve cover gasket leak R&R

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MinnyQ
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At 188k I'm going to replace the valve cover gasket on my '95 Q. Its leaking enough to send an oily smell into the passenger compartment. I'm thinking of letting a good independent shop down the road handle this one, figuring the difference between them and the dealership might cover a few replacement hoses, etc. under the plenum. So what, O wise ones, should I have replaced while they're in doing the gasket? And what are the chances an independent (with whom I've had very good results on an Audi we own) can screw this up?


DAEDALUS
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How old are your plugs? Labor's easy once they're in there.

MinnyQ
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About 68,000, I'm thinking. I had the 100,000 wires and plugs and hoses makeover done around 120k. But this is what I'm thinking. Should I have (an independent) replace all that stuff while the plenum is off? How much careful specification work is involved?

Q45tech
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The plenum doesn't come off in replacing valve cover gaskets........the few hoses that break can be replaced without the plenum removal.

$300-$400 worth of hoses including all fuel hoses, both KS and harness [$400] plus the $500 plenum labor plus the $500 valve cover labor...........makes the whole job only $1800 at most. new oem plugs should only add $100 installed along with all the other work.

traction or/and active will/should add $100 in labor and frustration.

You might try [offering] a $1000 flat labor fee [since it will take an expert all day of hard work].........and many untrained on the Q 1.5 days.

DAEDALUS
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Don't go back to the shop that sold you the plug wires--the Q doesn't have plug wires...coil on plug.

MinnyQ
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Car: '95 Q45

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No plenum removal ... hmmm.So if I stick to anything related to valve cover gasket replacement what am I looking at?The dealership says about $1100 for just the gasket work.

MinnyQ
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Daedalus: Sorry. That must have been what it was. Dealership job.

DAEDALUS
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There are a couple hoses that go from the valve covers down under the plenum. Usually they bend enough to allow the fittings to pop out of the covers. But if the hoses are really brittle, they will not flex far enough and will shatter before the fittings come out. If a dealership is telling you they have to remove the plenum to do the valve covers, this may be why. $1100 sounds fair for a dealership, but as Q45tech stated they won't be replacing a lot of the parts that probably should be replaced.

Q45tech
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For just VC, we charge 6 hours plus parts ~~ $500-$550 but if it is a TCS or Active car we add 1 Hour so $570-$620.......depending on what breaks.

MinnyQ
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Thank you, gentlemen. The Q is running quite well. But I may have the plugs replaced along with the VC.

mateo
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I think the VC gasket on my 179k mile J30 is done sweating. I smell oil inside the car as well. I have been wondering the same thing as you in regards to a dealer / private shop. I'm also wondering if this can be considered a DIYer for an ambitious, yet somewhat under-experienced mechanic such as myself. I know I will need the right tools, but not sure if I have access to a friend of a friend's garage yet or it the tools I need can be rented.

I understand the valves are the most difficult, labor intensive part on the J30. I see that there is a thread on how to replace the valves. I was smelling fuel during hard acceleration and stopping inside the cabin months before the VC gasket started to go. The hoses look good and the fuel filter changed. Should I just replace the valves while I'm at it?

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Jeff Williams
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I did my '94 Q passenger side VC gasket in about 2 hours, including cleaning everything. I had already replaced the plugs, but wish I had done them together.

I have not done the driver's side, yet, since it started getting colder. I will do it soon.

It is a DIY job, but you must be careful, and not try to rush. Take pictures, if you think you might forget where everyting goes. Be careful around the fuel lines. I stressed a hose under the plenum, and now it seeps gas, when the temp drops below freezing. Probably would have done that, anyway.

Once the VC is off, the plugs are right there.

I think another 2 hours for the driver's side. Not quite as easy as a Small Block Chevy.

DAEDALUS
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The driver's side takes more time, as there is more stuff in the way...egr/emissions stuff, intake, and more harness.

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elwesso
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Hmm.. The drivers side was cake for me.. I guess that means im looking foreward to doing the passenger side..

I would recommend replacingthe hoses that get in the way of the cladding... Those hoses dont come off real easy and I went through the pain of replacing the gasket wiht that in place...!

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Jeff Williams
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elwesso wrote:Hmm.. The drivers side was cake for me.. I guess that means im looking foreward to doing the passenger side..

I would recommend replacingthe hoses that get in the way of the cladding... Those hoses dont come off real easy and I went through the pain of replacing the gasket wiht that in place...!
I had the whole side apart, except for the EGR, and I was running out of time, so I buttoned her back up. Is the EGR easy to take out? The pipe is almost touching the VC.

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elwesso
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Do what I did and it will be painless...

Disconnect the EGR valve from the plenum, and keep jerking on the whole assy until its free (moving very easily)... Then reach down and unscrew it, and then pull it out.. DONT WASTE TIME LIKE I DID NOT DOING IT THIS WAY... Take out the WHOLE tube/valve asssy.....

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Jeff Williams
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elwesso wrote:Do what I did and it will be painless...

Disconnect the EGR valve from the plenum, and keep jerking on the whole assy until its free (moving very easily)... Then reach down and unscrew it, and then pull it out.. DONT WASTE TIME LIKE I DID NOT DOING IT THIS WAY... Take out the WHOLE tube/valve asssy.....
Thanks! That will make it easy.

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Q451990
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You may be able to replace the gasket on the 94-96 w/o removing the EGR since the gasket is solid rubber. I know you need the clearance to gently place the cover loaded with RTV back on the heads on the 90-93. Don't forget to RTV the half moons, even on the 94-96.

Heath

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elwesso
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You wont want to try and bother. I had it all apart and its really not something you want to mess with. Hardly any clearance.

Gasket <EGR> is like $1 from Joe. IF your careful youll be able save it..

Jeff... Did you RTV the half moons on the passenger side?

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Jeff Williams
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elwesso wrote:You wont want to try and bother. I had it all apart and its really not something you want to mess with. Hardly any clearance.

Gasket <EGR> is like $1 from Joe. IF your careful youll be able save it..

Jeff... Did you RTV the half moons on the passenger side?
I did, out of habbit.

Was I supposed to?

DAEDALUS
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Yes...on the undersides.

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Q451990
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Sorry, I meant the EGR tube... I'd remove the valve. Think you can change it w/o pulling the tube?

Heath

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Jeff Williams
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Q451990 wrote:Sorry, I meant the EGR tube... I'd remove the valve. Think you can change it w/o pulling the tube?

Heath
Heath, my tube is like 1/4" above the VC. I don't see any way to remove the cover, without the tube coming out first.

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elwesso
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DONT remove the valve from the tube.. Mine was fused on there and after 5mins of fighting (and a little bending) i gave up.....

DAEDALUS
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You're supposed to undo the swage nut before unbolting the EGR. Should be pretty easy, and you can't bend the tube.

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elwesso
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I didnt..... Mine was fused.....

mateo
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What's the implication for not replacing the vc gasket right away?

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Jeff Williams
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Oily crud on the engine, stinky oil smell, and sometimes smoke from under the hood, when you stop.

-Not too impressive to valet parking attendants, and yoor significant other.

The neighbor's 6 year old yelling: "Hey, ypour car is on fire!"


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