Valve Cover Bolts and Leak help

[Brandonnosecay]

So I just got a 1990 s13 hatch that i'm going to be painting and swapping the motor on and it came with a rebuilt ka24e that's been running pretty solid but recently I've been hearing a weird noise coming from the engine bay almost like a loose chain or something rattling from inside the motor. I did some research and found that it could possibly be the timing chain being loose. So I took off the valve cover and almost all my valve cover bolts were loose except two. After I inspected my timing chain I felt that it had a little bit of play but I didn't think it would be enough to being making that loud rattling noise in the engine i've been hearing. Anyways I went to put my valve cover back on and I can't get a single bolt to screw on. Does this mean I have to re-thread the holes in the engine where the valve cover bolts to or can I just buy new bolts? Also where would I be able to find valve cover bolts for a ka24e?

Problem #2 (the leak)
Before any of the above had happened I have been noticing a small coolant leak when ever I would park somewhere and the puddles gradually got bigger. After trying to find it I can only see the it was coming somewhere from the back of the engine towards the middle and leaking right on top of my transmission. I couldn't find the exact location or hose from the top or the bottom since it's all the way in the back and in the middle. It's to the point where it's just gushing out and can't seem to pin point its location. My guess is that it has to be an old torn hose or some kind of gasket. If anyone has had any of the problems I'm having with their single cam i'd definitely appreciate any help on this you can throw my way. Thanks in advance.

[MikeRL411]

Bolt hole problem sure sounds like cross threaded bolt insertion. In too much of a hurry to give a dam! Do you own or have access to a tap and die set? With more luck than a lottery winner you might not have to drill and tap to upsize bolts. Good luck! 1990 240SX is a great car.

[JayArr]

My guess would be that the threads are stripped in the head, buying new bolts won't help (they are a particular shape so if you want new ones you'll need to go to either Nissan or the junkyard). Do you know how to install helicoil inserts? If not then time to learn, they aren't hard and once you have the drill bit and tool the inserts are cheap. It shouldn't take more than an hour or so to fix up the holes so the bolts work again.

There doesn't have to be much slack at all for the chain to make noise. If it has "a little bit of play" then it needs to be changed right away before it jumps a tooth and leaves you stranded on the side of the road.

check the two hoses that go from the engine to the heater core, your leak may be from them.

JayArr

[MikeRL411]

And don't forget to use anti-seize compound on those steel bolts in an aluminum block.

[Brandonnosecay]

My guess would be that the threads are stripped in the head, buying new bolts won't help (they are a particular shape so if you want new ones you'll need to go to either Nissan or the junkyard). Do you know how to install helicoil inserts? If not then time to learn, they aren't hard and once you have the drill bit and tool the inserts are cheap. It shouldn't take more than an hour or so to fix up the holes so the bolts work again.

There doesn't have to be much slack at all for the chain to make noise. If it has "a little bit of play" then it needs to be changed right away before it jumps a tooth and leaves you stranded on the side of the road.

check the two hoses that go from the engine to the heater core, your leak may be from them.

JayArr

I guess I will have to learn how to install those inserts. It doesn't seem to hard from what i've seen on youtube. lol
Thanks for all the help I appreciate it.

[AZ89two4Tsx]

For the valve cover, try helicoils. They are the easiest option but honestly, not the best. Especially since your valve cover might have to be removed frequently.

It sucks, but you might have to man up and re-tap the holes. A plus to this though is that you would have to buy (unless you can borrow) a tap and dye set. This will last you forever if you get a nice one. They are an invaluable tool if you know how to use it. Get yourself a nice one and learn how to do it - preferably from someone that is knowledgeable in using one. Don't cheap out and Harbor Freight it though. Tapping a new hole sucks but is rewarding in the end....but still sucks.

[Brandonnosecay]

Okay, So I checked and the leak is coming from one of the heater core hoses. The one closest to the middle of the engine. The leak starts from the engine side. How am I supposed to change that hose though? I've been searching and haven't found any info on exactly how to remove and replace that hose. I can barely squeeze my hand in there from the top of the engine and I can't take off the hose clamp because of the tiny amount of space in there. Anyone ever done this before?

[Lobo240sx]

Okay, So I checked and the leak is coming from one of the heater core hoses. The one closest to the middle of the engine. The leak starts from the engine side. How am I supposed to change that hose though? I've been searching and haven't found any info on exactly how to remove and replace that hose. I can barely squeeze my hand in there from the top of the engine and I can't take off the hose clamp because of the tiny amount of space in there. Anyone ever done this before?

It's been done before with a lot of swearing and a loooong screwdriver or curved wrench... Is it the top or bottom heater core hose? You might have to take off the intake collector side of the engine to get to the other side of the heater hose. You MIGHT be able to get it easier from underneath the car without taking it off. Depends which direction the installer put the clamp on.

[JayArr]

Go to the tool store and buy a bunch of 1/4 inch extensions and universal joints, like two of each of the larger sizes, 3 each of the shorties and at least two joints, make sure you have a 1/4" nutdriver and ratchet. You're never going to get there with a screwdriver but I've done it twice with a big pile of extensions, joints and a small socket.

IIRC I think two of the clamps are put on before the engine is placed in the car and that's what makes the first removal so hard. It's easier the second time because when you put the clamps back on after the first time you can orient them so that they are easier to get at the next time around.

JayArr