Valve cover and coolant bypass questions

[diplomat 1]

I got a n/a which i am prepping to put in my z and i am doing the deletes now. I got rid of the egr and now am doing the coolant bypass. After i take out all the hoes under the plenum off and out except pcv, do i need this braket full of coolant lines? it seems pretty useless but i may bee wrong want to know your opinion. Also how do i cap the other hard lines on the car? Wat should i use? EDIT: Also is the a diagram that shows the new routing of coolant lines without this bracket?


second question is i am also doing the intake exhaust valve covers gaskets again and the intake ones have the premade gaskets for them so i bought a brand new set and now i am using the screws type bolts with the rubber seals both came off the car to tighten down the cover and i tightened it down pretty good ut still got this gap as shown in the picture. Is that right? If i keep tightenting the bold imma strip it cause its a phillips head style. thanks

[NolimitZ32]

1. Do not doublepost please.
2. I know on the TTs that hardpipe is used to connect the turbo coolant lines to the main coolant feed, I dont remember if its needed on the NA.
3. The point of the rubber insulators is to ensure that you don't over-tighten the bolt and crack the valve cover. The gap is supposed to be there because if you look past it you will see that the gasket has actually sealed.

[ShiroZ32]

The one you need is the larger tube which connects the passenger side pcv valve to the driver side exhaust cover. You can remove the smaller (coolant) lines and reroute them.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pgMjw9fUG0c I followed Corey's video here for that.
If you want to completely remove all that plumbing, you're going to have to tap in to the intake valve covers like here: https://z32.wikispaces.com/PCV+Reroute
There is also a write-up in there for a pcv delete if you wish to go that route along with other very useful information

[diplomat 1]

My bad on the dp. Ok so valve covers are good now the only line I need off that bracket is the big pipe which is a pcv line. Is there a diagram for the routing of all pcv lines? Thanks for the help

[NolimitZ32]

Check the "Everything you need to know. . . " Thread in the stickies, IIRC there is one in there.

[diplomat 1]

I don't see the routing I the sticky. Also twinmturbo.net is down which sucks. Imma try n figure it out tonite. Also is it ok to use black gasket maker to make all the gaskets? Like the exhaust valve cover, oil pan gasket (except half moon part) and the part between the 2 pipes that screws onto the pipes that comes out the block for the heater core in the rear of the engine.

[NolimitZ32]

I've always used ultra gray but I don't see why black wouldnt work, check the properties and make sure the application fits. As for the Vac lines I was mistaken the TT routing is in there. Its pretty simple, you can use the fsm to figure out how to do it.

[diplomat 1]

I got the intake manifold on replaced all the hoses I saw. If I'm not mistaken there is a hoses that runs from the "accordion" air intake straight to the AAC valve that runs to the iacv which goes to balance tube. Does that sound right? Also I see a coolant hard line in and out the iac/AAC valve, can I did the coolant bypass on the throttle bodies, can I run one hose,from each of the hard pipe that go into the heater core,into and out those lines? Lastly I see 2 outlets on the drivers side of the plenum I believe these are for the brake booster and clutch? I think I'm wrong there but Just want to make sure. Thanks

[NolimitZ32]

Sorry man, it's been a decade since I've messed with a NA VG so hopefully someone else can chime in that knows I just don't remember.

[ShiroZ32]

If you can get a picture up I can help you out. I'm having a hard time figuring out what 2 outlets you're talking about. The only thing i can come up with would be the booster line and perhaps a prvr line

[diplomat 1]

I got the motor in and got it started. As of right now I only have it started open headers as the exhaust is goin on tonite. My problem is when I do start it it seems like I have low oil pressure and also feel like I may be leaking ga. Here is a pic of the oil pressure when first started



The reason I think I might have a fuel leak is cause I changed 2 bad injectors but reused the orings cause I didn't have new ones. I haven't taken a look yet but I'm hoping that isn't the case. Would bad orings cause it to spill out the injector or drip out cause I didn't see any major spills. Thanks

[Bigred*]

Oil pressure is going to be low at idle, and will rise with rpm, but that does seem pretty low.. I know it's silly, but did you check your oil level? Why do you think you have a bad injector seal? If it's not sealing then the engine is going to run like crap and probably stall out at idle.. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, on my old diesel when I had an injector leak it was squinting fuel 5 feet in the air, but diesel are different, on a car like this if you had a injector seal wouldn't that cause a vacuum leak? If it was your not going to hear it with open headers

Also I know you already gotten the gasket sealer on the valve covers, but just so your aware because I just went through this and figured it out.. The ultra black advertises itself as ultimate oil resistant or whatever and the ultra grey is vibration and oil resistant.. But what I found was really the biggest difference is with ultra black you have to hand tighten the bolts, let them cure for an hour and then torque down, where as with ultra grey you can torque down everything right after you apply the sealant. If you don't use the ultra black correctly it will be prone to leaking way sooner, especially if you torque it down without letting it cure for a while first