Vacuum Leak will NOT stop!

[Katapl]

I had a tiny hose going to what I believed was the EGR valve from a T. It was leaking and it was very obvious when I wiggled the line and the high pitch squeel would flucuate. So I replaced it just today. I took it for a test drive and all went well. Then I gave it some gas and hit boost at 7 psi. It came right back! What the hell!? I popped the hood, and wiggled the same line I just replaced, and there it was. Same place, same deal. I used an even smaller hose than what was on there when I replaced it today. I also did a hell of a job when I tightened up the zip ties on it.

What the hell is going on? And also, why are there 2 valve-looking pieces behind my manifold that both look like the EGR valve. The bigger one is not hooked-up, though.

[Katapl]

This outta make it a bit easier to diagnose.



Here we can see the 'T' which the hose runs off of. It's the lower right one with the uncut zip tie on it. The other two lines go to the wastegate and somewhere into the intake manifold.



This is where the line in question ends. You can still see the ziptie I used to tighten it down. As you can tell by the huge block on the left, it's pretty much behind and near the intake manifold. See the bigger one to the right that looks identical? It's unhooked.



Now we have an overhead view. You can somewhat see the smaller valve in-question, and the larger one which is unhooked.

[boost_boy]

You should really read about the engine you have in your car. Those valve looking components you refer to are not EGR valves. The larger one is the actuator for the butterfly valve plates that are inside your intake plenum to head section and the smaller one is your fuel pressure regulator. The fuel pressure regulator needs vacuum at all times, but you should leave the actuator unplugged as you do not have the proper accessories to make this function as the factory intended. Please read up on the CA18DET!

Thanks,

Dee

P.S. As for your vacuum leak, there's nothing we can do for that. You're just going to have to fit the right diameter hose or change that bootleg set-up.

[ch187]

nice hack-job. fix it.

[Katapl]

I actually have been reading up on it. I've always though CA's were pretty neat, but never looked into them until I purchased this car and it had one in it.

It's rather difficult to follow vacuum diagrams, as this engine has an SR T25 on it.

My problem being, a line from the SR T25 wastegate actuator is running into the T-fitting. This on it's own is somewhat confusing. What's to be done about it, or how would you recommend going about a fix?

P.S. As for your vacuum leak, there's nothing we can do for that. You're just going to have to fit the right diameter hose or change that bootleg set-up.

I removed the hose that was on there, and fitted a smaller hose which was pretty much a chore to actually get fit all the way on. It was a really tight fit, but I eventually got it on. It held up during a test drive until the car hit 7 psi. Then it started howling again from the FPR. Ugh.

[Katapl]

Well, I think I found the FPR problem. I used a mirror to take a look behind it. I figured the nipple might be cracked where it connects to the body. I found that where it connects, and on the backside, there's a tiny sliver missing. I doubt it was casted like this for all CA's.

I'm going to clean it up tomorrow and use J-B Weld on the missing sliver. I'm pretty confident that's the issue here.

[superJoy]

Since your engine seems to be ghetto-er than sin (not your fault, whatever), I'm going to guess and say that you have none of the butterfly system intact.

So, omit all the check valve/delay valve/vacuum tank/control solenoid nonsense and simply connect the butterfly actuator to the same vacuum source as the FPR, using a tee. This is still a hackjob way of hooking up the butterflies but it's better than nothing. (Most members on here have them hooked up in this manner.) The ONLY other thing that should be connected there on the FPR vacuum source (optionally of course) is the boost gauge.

To work well, the wastegate source needs to be as close to the turbo as possible. In order to get the source there, you can:

- weld a new nipple on the hotpipe (this is an acceptable way of doing it, as the stock SR SMIC piping uses a nipple on the hotpipe as the vacuum source for the wastegate actuator)- install a "quicktap" that splices into the silicon connector (http://www.atpturbo.com/Mercha...e=BCS)- drill and tap for a fitting either in the compressor housing itself or the outlet elbow

I opted for #3 for my wastegate source. I'm running an SR turbo on mine, just like you, so there was no previous source (original turbo on has the source on the compressor housing). I used a $2 fitting from O'Reilly's, something like 1/4" NPT to 1/4" hose barb if I recall correctly, and drilled and tapped a spot for it on the compressor outlet elbow.



After looking at it again, it would be better to mount the fitting on the opposite side of the outlet elbow (still the flat part), and to use a 1/8" NPT instead of 1/4" NPT. I couldn't find a 1/8" NPT locally though. With it on the side I chose, the vacuum line does need to be looped a little bit to plug in there from the wastegate actuator, as they're REALLY close to each other and clearance is tight for the line. But it'll still work.

Anyway. If you choose to use a charcoal canister (no one does, lol) it goes on the TB port. Otherwise, cap it off like the diagram.

If you have a BOV, it should be hooked up as per the diagram. For best results don't tee off the BOV line.

I hope this helps.

[Katapl]

That helps me a lot. I'll try to correct the wastegate line tomorrow, too. The BOV line is has a T running off it as well. I'll look into fixing that. I really do think my FPR is cracked, though. I hope J-B Weld can seal it up tight.

[ch187]

if your stock fpr is jacked i have one for you..20 bucks son. dont use jb weld which will further worsen the hack-job going on there