I've encountered an overheating issue since I've used Stop Leak...

My dad says that when he was working on my brakes that there's been a drip coming from the middle of the motor. Myself, any time I went to the car I never saw any puddles that looked unusual because I've been to HELL and back with my brake system continuously failing and dripping all over the ground(which is from the wheel well being cracked via whatever the way the previous owner(s) used to drive it - which was hard!). So any time I go over a bump, the line is being stressed. Why anybody would beat on a beautiful truck is BEYOND ME. So the way that I hit bumps was affecting the new line every time. Golly.

Back story - I've had this car since February 23rd of this year. This truck runs BEAUTIFULLY and I have not encountered any engine problems until this past Sunday(June 9th). I've had several issues with the brakes, calipers and drums and replaced them. I've replaced the same damn line in the same damn spot because of what I stated previously due to the wheel well being cracked. So my dad and I finally "solved" the issue by bending a metal tube that will half-a** flex until I can find a steel-woven wire and c'est la vie, it'll be like brand-new. As far as overheating, the temp gauge was ALWAYS right in the middle of H and C. Perfectly normal. It never when up, never went down.

So this leak my dad said he saw, I haven't seen those puddles. At all. So I buy the Stop Leak anyway. My dad directs me to: "Before your trip(was driving to the beach - about a 2 hr drive), pour the Stop Leak in with "this" amount and top it off with antifreeze. Do this if you're going to be driving for more than 15 minutes to get the juice flowing." Now, this truck has never shown signs or indications of failing via noises, smell, tranny, shifting, you name it, it has felt SOUND. When I start it up, it rips right up. It idles beautifully. Honestly, you would never be able to tell anything was wrong with it. The motor is so strong AND STILL IS.

Before I did this, there was no overheating issues. As soon as I used the stop leak and antifreeze on this day(it was very hot out as well, about 80F(26C)), I hit the road and drove inner-city for about 20 minutes until I hit the highway. 30 minutes later, I'm at about 80MPH(129KM) in the fast lane and my truck was pinned on H(I'm not sure how long it was hot for before this happened) and then BOGS down real heavy. I'm trying to accelerate, and it keeps bogging down/not allowing me to pick up speed(was the car just going into limp mode to save it from any more damage?). The MIRACULOUS convenience of an exit being there when this happened, I couldn't tell you. I hopped off as fast as I could. The car slowed down and I was able to slowly pull it into a gas station while bogging any time I was on the gas. It was SPEWING coolant only from the overflow. Absolutely nowhere else. It got EVERYWHERE. It was only on the driver's side, covering the wheel, the well and all along the side of the truck. The temperature gauge read just as it should have. I was able to get the car home with the heat on high with the defrost on and the windows open. It drove so nicely, STILL. The faster I drove, the lower the gauge kept fluctuating. As soon as I had to stop at red lights and drive inner city, the gauge almost pinned. I was literally 5 minutes from home after this 50 minute drive when this happened. It almost pinned the H, but I made it home in time and left the car to sit for a few days.

Nowhere did I find leaking after I had shut the car off and let it chill before trying to dump more coolant in. My mom and I tried a field test(we were on the phone with my dad, so he tried helping us walk through a few things to do to diagnose it, but really, we didn't know what the hell we were doing.). When I revved the engine anywhere under 2,000rpm, the engine made a sound that can best be described as when some standard/manual drivers are sitting at a red light and they continuously roll back and forward revving the engine in short intervals). I do have a video of the noise, but it's so short and you might not be able to hear it. I'll still attach it when I have another minute soon.

Until then, I'm still having to diagnose what the hell that noise is again because it only made this noise when the engine was HOT. When cool, all is well. This car stills drives and runs like a dream, but it overheats. It's still such a beautiful truck. I want to save it so I can get a few more months, if not a year out of her.

And I'm at a loss trying to figure it out before I've got to go pay some money for a diagnosis at a dealership. I don't think I can trust any random garage or mechanic anymore unless I met an enthusiast from here that lives near me.

So, what the hell could have happened?

Sounds like a head gasket failure , and temp gauges are designed to operate and be accurate when SUBMERGED in the coolant and may actually incorrectly report so-so normal temp.Also higher heat many times "tightens" up the blown gasket problem (a situation I drove Vegas to Phoenix) everything expanded and able to somewhat drive "normal" full out - then slow or stopped symptoms come back with a vengeance.Limp mode should be a damn Dash Lamp because that poor performance is often mistaken these days for"Limp Mode", when it's probably serious engine situations causing FATAL damage unbeknownst.
The last thing we all want to do is pull RIGHT OVER and tow car to a shop , with cooling system gotta bite the bullet and JFDI .

Limited time, so I'll be brief:

First - No driving until it's fixed. Do not allow it to heat up again until we've figured out what went wrong.

Don't ever pour anything into your vehicle that purports to 'repair' anything. The stopleak likely clogged a vital coolant passage that was already compromised, and created your failure.

Likely a blown head gasket. Do an oil change - look for coolant in the oil. Drain the coolant - Look for oil in the coolant. If both are clear, then let's move on. Start it and look for tailpipe smoke. White = coolant, blue = oil. Both are bad.

You need a pressure test of your cooling system. Testers can be rented, or let's find someone local who can pressurize the system. Let's replace the thermostat - After an overheat condition, it's likely compromised.

The "idle hunting" you describe is a separate issue, most likely - or it could be a symptom of a bigger problem. Regardless, if it starts and idles smoothly, you may have dodged a bullet. Let's not go to the dealership just yet - they're not in the "diagnosis without repairs" business.

AZhitman wrote: ↑

Tue Jun 11, 2019 10:19 pm

Limited time, so I'll be brief:

First - No driving until it's fixed. Do not allow it to heat up again until we've figured out what went wrong.

Don't ever pour anything into your vehicle that purports to 'repair' anything. The stopleak likely clogged a vital coolant passage that was already compromised, and created your failure.

Likely a blown head gasket. Do an oil change - look for coolant in the oil. Drain the coolant - Look for oil in the coolant. If both are clear, then let's move on. Start it and look for tailpipe smoke. White = coolant, blue = oil. Both are bad.

You need a pressure test of your cooling system. Testers can be rented, or let's find someone local who can pressurize the system. Let's replace the thermostat - After an overheat condition, it's likely compromised.

The "idle hunting" you describe is a separate issue, most likely - or it could be a symptom of a bigger problem. Regardless, if it starts and idles smoothly, you may have dodged a bullet. Let's not go to the dealership just yet - they're not in the "diagnosis without repairs" business.

This really sucks... I have no other form of transportation to work so I had to drive it to work tonight(I work 11pm-7am), and I'll be having to drive it in the morning to get it home.... and am terrified to do so now. I'm at a loss and my hands are tied. I think I'm screwed!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Top off the coolant with distilled water... drive it with the heater on full blast, and go gentle. Watch the gauge.

I'll ask around and see if we have anyone nearby.

AZhitman wrote: ↑

Tue Jun 11, 2019 10:31 pm

Top off the coolant with distilled water... drive it with the heater on full blast, and go gentle. Watch the gauge.

I'll ask around and see if we have anyone nearby.

I think you guys are the only light of hope I can get right now. I just can't believe this happened. I should have never put that junk in there!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thank you so much for the info. I've asked around and this is the most solid info I've gotten. I truly appreciate you!

NP. Let's find you a helpful local car person.

AZhitman wrote: ↑

Tue Jun 11, 2019 10:39 pm

NP. Let's find you a helpful local car person.

Yes, please! Someone Massachusetts or Connecticut based. New York isn't too far either though. Whomever is willing to help me figure this out and can travel is/will be Godsend.

I was following on youtube FAST-RELIGION , I believe S. Shore Boston area , guy seems intelligent and very dedicated to Nissan ( Infiniti ? ) . I bet Matt I think may be able to steer or help . Next time in Boston I was going to take the Juke and discuss tuning mods with them.
Geez ,I hope this is accurate info , it's late, sometimes ya start writing something and .......

macgiver wrote: ↑

Tue Jun 11, 2019 11:00 pm

I was following on youtube FAST-RELIGION , I believe S. Shore Boston area , guy seems intelligent and very dedicated to Nissan ( Infiniti ? ) . I bet Matt I think may be able to steer or help . Next time in Boston I was going to take the Juke and discuss tuning mods with them.
Geez ,I hope this is accurate info , it's late, sometimes ya start writing something and .......

Any kind of leads in the right direction are the best leads. Thank you! I'll have to check it out.

Shoot me a message on Facebook messenger , I’m not in your area but I will help you sort the issue . Search for Mark Jackson (Vero Beach)

qx4_girl wrote: ↑

Tue Jun 11, 2019 11:44 pm

macgiver wrote: ↑

Tue Jun 11, 2019 11:00 pm

I was following on youtube FAST-RELIGION , I believe S. Shore Boston area , guy seems intelligent and very dedicated to Nissan ( Infiniti ? ) . I bet Matt I think may be able to steer or help . Next time in Boston I was going to take the Juke and discuss tuning mods with them.
Geez ,I hope this is accurate info , it's late, sometimes ya start writing something and .......

Any kind of leads in the right direction are the best leads. Thank you! I'll have to check it out.

I just tagged Matt in a link to this thread on Facebook. He said he doesn't have a NICO account to reply, but asked to post this:

Matthew Parris Stop leak is the cause of your issue. Odds are it clogged up the thermostat and chunks damaged the water pump. Modern engines are far too close of tolerances for additives like this. If this where brought to me first thing would be to pull the water pump and thermostats. Replace them, then use a hose to flush the engine. If the truck was driven too hot for too long you may have head warpage, but you need to have it running and warmed up properly to see if there is any sort of internal damage. Long story short: never use stop leak. Fix the leak the right way. Id bet money it ruined your cooling parts.

S14-NEO wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 12, 2019 5:29 am

Shoot me a message on Facebook messenger , I’m not in your area but I will help you sort the issue . Search for Mark Jackson (Vero Beach)

Believe it or not, there are more Mark Jackson's in Vero Beach than you'd imagine haha. Couple of profiles with kids or just the dudes themselves.

AZhitman wrote: ↑

Tue Jun 11, 2019 10:19 pm

Limited time, so I'll be brief:

First - No driving until it's fixed. Do not allow it to heat up again until we've figured out what went wrong.

Don't ever pour anything into your vehicle that purports to 'repair' anything. The stopleak likely clogged a vital coolant passage that was already compromised, and created your failure.

Likely a blown head gasket. Do an oil change - look for coolant in the oil. Drain the coolant - Look for oil in the coolant. If both are clear, then let's move on. Start it and look for tailpipe smoke. White = coolant, blue = oil. Both are bad.

You need a pressure test of your cooling system. Testers can be rented, or let's find someone local who can pressurize the system. Let's replace the thermostat - After an overheat condition, it's likely compromised.

The "idle hunting" you describe is a separate issue, most likely - or it could be a symptom of a bigger problem. Regardless, if it starts and idles smoothly, you may have dodged a bullet. Let's not go to the dealership just yet - they're not in the "diagnosis without repairs" business.

I apologize for the late reply here! There is no smoke coming out of the tailpipe. ! I topped her off with some water I had in the car, not distilled but I did pick up a gallon today to keep in the car. I drove halfway home with the heat on high and made the choice to turn it off for the rest of the way and she never overheat. The gauge was just over a notch from the middle. She ran hot the night before because I was lacking fluids and didn't see that til' I did the water in the AM. I haven't driven but I have started her up and is still running smoothly. I have yet to take care of the thermostat as I haven't had a chance to buy and install it, but that's my next feat in the next few days. I luckily have an outlet for getting to work, so no risking my baby!

EZcheese15 wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 12, 2019 6:42 am

qx4_girl wrote: ↑

Tue Jun 11, 2019 11:44 pm

Any kind of leads in the right direction are the best leads. Thank you! I'll have to check it out.

I just tagged Matt in a link to this thread on Facebook. He said he doesn't have a NICO account to reply, but asked to post this:

Matthew Parris Stop leak is the cause of your issue. Odds are it clogged up the thermostat and chunks damaged the water pump. Modern engines are far too close of tolerances for additives like this. If this where brought to me first thing would be to pull the water pump and thermostats. Replace them, then use a hose to flush the engine. If the truck was driven too hot for too long you may have head warpage, but you need to have it running and warmed up properly to see if there is any sort of internal damage. Long story short: never use stop leak. Fix the leak the right way. Id bet money it ruined your cooling parts.

I cannot thank you and the others in this thread. Y'all have brought me to tears with all this help. This is seriously so awesome and I appreciate you a lot for doing that. I am absolutely going to reach out to him on Facebook and hopefully [soon] I can get my baby out there, since AAA will cover the miles it'll take getting there and back LOL~ From the bottom of my heart, seriously, THANK YOU!!!!!!!!

I guess, before anything else and dropping money I could actually save, we are going to replace the timing chain entirely(a far as I'm concerned lol), the water pump and the thermostat and see where it takes us.

I think that you guys threw a nuclear solution to the issue a little too fast and too early in the game.

There is a philosophy of "let it fail" and we use it specifically for leaks and drips. Fluid droplets on the ground under a vehicle vary in severity and hence determine what kind of solution should apply to it.

What is dripping?
How fast is it dripping?
What color is it?
How does it feel to the touch?
Is it constant, or only when the vehicle is running?
Where exactly is it dripping from?

As already mentioned, stop-leak products are not advisable, but I would have done my best to determine what was leaking first. My opinion (and going by your observations) is that it was not likely to be coolant.
1. Since there was no evidence, it could be as minor as normal AC system condensation that evaporates with time, which requires no interference. Note, that I don't exactly recall whether the R50 drips on the side or in the middle of the firewall in a location likely to be confused as "middle of the motor".
2. It could also be as annoying as a RMS (rear main seal) leak, which will drip oil starting where the engine meets the transmission, more or less centered L-R.
3. Or really a coolant leak perhaps from the crossover tube... My point being that it needs positive confirmation of the source of the leak first.

I don't know if you have addressed the timing chain as you wished yet, but my big question is this - did using the stop leak in the cooling system actually stop this leak that started this whole adventure?

EdBwoy wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 03, 2019 8:04 am

I think that you guys threw a nuclear solution to the issue a little too fast and too early in the game.

There is a philosophy of "let it fail" and we use it specifically for leaks and drips. Fluid droplets on the ground under a vehicle vary in severity and hence determine what kind of solution should apply to it.

What is dripping?
How fast is it dripping?
What color is it?
How does it feel to the touch?
Is it constant, or only when the vehicle is running?
Where exactly is it dripping from?

As already mentioned, stop-leak products are not advisable, but I would have done my best to determine what was leaking first. My opinion (and going by your observations) is that it was not likely to be coolant.
1. Since there was no evidence, it could be as minor as normal AC system condensation that evaporates with time, which requires no interference. Note, that I don't exactly recall whether the R50 drips on the side or in the middle of the firewall in a location likely to be confused as "middle of the motor".
2. It could also be as annoying as a RMS (rear main seal) leak, which will drip oil starting where the engine meets the transmission, more or less centered L-R.
3. Or really a coolant leak perhaps from the crossover tube... My point being that it needs positive confirmation of the source of the leak first.

I don't know if you have addressed the timing chain as you wished yet, but my big question is this - did using the stop leak in the cooling system actually stop this leak that started this whole adventure?

That's my dad. He is good with some things as a mechanic, but this truck is equally new to him as it is to me. He really had no idea what it could have been. He keeps insisting "yes, yes. It was leaking."

I will NEVER use a stop-leak agent ever again, I can tell you that much.

The only thing we've been able to do so far is the thermostat(which was busted) as I've been trying to save some cash to hit up my local foreign & domestic auto shop 'cause my dad is at a loss. But NOW, thinks it could be the clutch fan not rotating fast enough. He keeps trying to tell me that my fan never turns on fast enough when you turn the key. Again, I've had no issues before this man told me to do what I did. I'm so pissed, it ain't even funny. The fan is on from the time I start the car, til' I turn it off. I don't know wtf he's talking about when he says the fan isn't supposed to be on all the time. I'm so damn confused. I'm frustrated. And I can't do anything at the moment to find real answers. Taking it to a shop, would they know to check for that? Who friggen knows. I'm seriously scratching my head.


To answer:

"What is dripping? Nothing that I had noticed. Only when the brake line kept busting due to the shock tower being cracked real bad.
How fast is it dripping? I never saw any fluid that wasn't from the brakes. Myself, I'm not sure what my dad kept talking about, but he said he noticed a slow drip whenever it was jacked up on the passenger side.
What color is it? Clear-ish. I wiped said fluid off of the chassis. That was all I saw.
How does it feel to the touch? Oily as heck.
Is it constant, or only when the vehicle is running? No longer.
Where exactly is it dripping from? Behind the engine and in the center.

Lastly, the leaking is nowhere to be found. She is as dry as a bone. The car is still overheating even with the new thermostat, and we attempted a flush(but I'm not sure we did that right either because my dad is a quick, temporary solution kind of guy.). At this point, it's so much of an effing stressful time, and I just want to cry. Lol. I don't know what to do and it's making me feel hopeless and helpless as anything.

EdBwoy wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 03, 2019 8:04 am

I think that you guys threw a nuclear solution to the issue a little too fast and too early in the game.

There is a philosophy of "let it fail" and we use it specifically for leaks and drips. Fluid droplets on the ground under a vehicle vary in severity and hence determine what kind of solution should apply to it.

What is dripping?
How fast is it dripping?
What color is it?
How does it feel to the touch?
Is it constant, or only when the vehicle is running?
Where exactly is it dripping from?

As already mentioned, stop-leak products are not advisable, but I would have done my best to determine what was leaking first. My opinion (and going by your observations) is that it was not likely to be coolant.
1. Since there was no evidence, it could be as minor as normal AC system condensation that evaporates with time, which requires no interference. Note, that I don't exactly recall whether the R50 drips on the side or in the middle of the firewall in a location likely to be confused as "middle of the motor".
2. It could also be as annoying as a RMS (rear main seal) leak, which will drip oil starting where the engine meets the transmission, more or less centered L-R.
3. Or really a coolant leak perhaps from the crossover tube... My point being that it needs positive confirmation of the source of the leak first.

I don't know if you have addressed the timing chain as you wished yet, but my big question is this - did using the stop leak in the cooling system actually stop this leak that started this whole adventure?

Forgot to mention that I don't have a working A/C compressor and it's not assembled to a pulley either.

Let's not worry about the fan. Pops can come in here and explain his reasoning (and get a higher-level education on how cars work) or he can just make grumpy noises and suggest snake oil solutions. No touching!

The fan is fine. There's certainly a possibility that the fan clutch is going bad, but it's highly unlikely. The fan rotates with engine speed, and that moves air through the radiator - simple. It's doing its job. It absolutely should spin whenever the car is running. An electric fan should go off (and on) based on temperature, but we're dealing with a clutch fan. You're correct. Send Pops inside to make you a sammich.

Clear, oily fluid = coolant. Let's get the t-stat replaced and go from there. At this point, unless we can find a local expert, we're shooting in the dark...so let's make sure nothing catastrophic is wrong and let you get back to your commute.

Just wanted to chime in here to add:
1. Try to get the OE thermostate from the Nissan dealership (they are cheap). Some aftermarket ones tend to not have the right flow and this could possibly create a problem.
2. Same with the water pump. The cost difference between parts from the dealership and the local parts store is negligible and just not worth it IMO.
3. AZHitman is right. It's a mechanical clutch fan. It will start to spin as soon as the engine is started/on. The clutch controls how fast the fan spins depending on engine temperature (it will spin faster at the engine operating temperature i.e when the gauge is half way vs. spin slower when the engine is cold i.e. when the gauge is cold).
4. Just stick to distilled water till you can figure out what's going on.
5. Use the Valvoline red colored coolant when you are refilling the engine. Don't use the generic green stuff. The red color coolant can be found real cheap at Wally Mart.

Update: We did a pressure test. The gauge didn't move for the five minutes we had it on there @ 13psi as directed on the radiator cap. I saw the leak, finally. Stupid stop leak didn't even do anything. Gee whizz. The location of it is dripping toward the back and off of two hoses.

And so, we've replaced the thermostat with one that opens at 170F for $20 at O'Reilly's. Time has been of the essence, so I've been buying locally rather than purchase anything online so we can try to figure this crap out faster. BUT. Still overheating. My dad revs the engine really high to get it hot. Makes me nervous when he does that. THAT seems like it would crack the block or the gaskets would fail from the unnecessary stress of revving it so high. Or is it okay that he's doing that? He does it every time he's done replacing something or getting it ready for a test drive.

We replaced the fan clutch today(7/10). He took it for a spin and it seemed to overheat even SOONER that the last time he took it out to test the thermostat. He wasn't gone from the house more than 5 minutes. I knew right away that if he came back as soon as he did, nothing changed.

For now, I have to let it sit until I can figure out the next move. Water pump was brought to my attention from the guy that took a very quick look at it when I had gotten off the highway. My brother then suggested, "well if you're going to do that, you might as well do the timing belt as well."

Like.. WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'm so lost and hopeless, it ain't even funny you guys. I'd love to tow it to that dude in Boston, the Juke guy.

And above anything else, this car still starts up real strong and drives like a champ. It's fricken ridiculous. I've put many new parts in the hopes that I could get several years out of her. I want to give up, but something keeps telling me not to, despite the problems, the rust, the rot. I live in New England and it's the perfect vehicle for ripping through the snow.

Parting it out seems crazy and difficult because there's not many people in the market for these trucks anymore. So it seems, that is. Been seeing a lot of Pathy's and rarely the QX4's being sold on Facebook. But No space to tear her apart. I don't mean to rant, but maybe there's an option somewhere, somehow.

Have you tried a new radiator cap? If it's not holding the right pressure then coolant will fill the overflow tank. It also sounds like the car didn't overheat while you had the test cap on which is another indicator the cap may be the problem.

born2lse wrote: ↑

Thu Jul 11, 2019 8:58 am

Have you tried a new radiator cap? If it's not holding the right pressure then coolant will fill the overflow tank. It also sounds like the car didn't overheat while you had the test cap on which is another indicator the cap may be the problem.

I did the test when sitting and cooled in the parking lot of Advanced Auto Parts. We just did a fast borrowing of the kit they've got. It sounds like the cap would be unlikely only because I've had the same cap since I bought it. It had never overheat before any of this. Would the cap be compromised after a situation like this? That seems odd to me.

Today, I went to the local shop that's right around the corner from me, so I drove over there. I didn't drive longer than 3 minutes and didn't overheat. It got up to temp fast, but it sat right in the middle. I'm sure if it was any further I'd have been overheating.

ALSO, I forgot to mention, when my dad replaced the fan, after he got back to the house with it, it was hot to the point that the overflow was boiling again. I feel like whatever he is doing to it, isn't going to make the situation any better. That he may totally just destroy the car.

These JERKS quoted me for a $6,500-$7,000 to rebuild it. There's a woman that works at the front desk. From the LITTLE information I briefly provided, and the lack thereof of someone taking a look at it, the woman at the front desk goes "Yeah, I'm 99% sure it's the head gasket. So we would have to rebuild it, and that's going to run you about $4,200. *clicks and taps on a calculator* That doesn't include the part and the labor."

I'm like.... "Uh, okay? At least I got an answer" and walked outta there. There is NO way that astronomical price is any bit of reasonable. I googled the average cost that was $2,500-$4,000 INCLUDING parts and labor. Again, nobody even opened the hood or took a peek at it from underneath. There's no f****** way she could just look at the body and take the VIN and give me the amount of sh** she did.

I left feeling a bit defeated and hopeless that I'll never find a mechanic or shop that's reasonable in this city.

All you guys have been really awesome and giving me information I didn't have before, and it's enriching my knowledge. I wish I had a garage so I can work on it myself!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

OK, let's slow down... I get that this is frustrating, but a couple things are apparent:

1) Leaking near 2 hoses in the rear. Those are likely your heater hoses. If you still have a leak, NOTHING you do is going to help. Period. Your cooling system is compromised. It won't hold pressure, which means it WILL overheat. The good news is you can loop those, you just won't have a heater. No big issue.

2) Your Pops sounds like he means well, but we already said there's nothing wrong with the fan. Revving the piss out of it isn't going to do anything. If he's not interested in expert advice, that's fine, but there was no reason to spend money on a fan clutch... or stop-leak.

3) Call that shop and tell them I said to F off. In fact, post their info so we can ALL call them. What were they planning to rebuild? IDIOTS.

4) A radiator cap can and will go bad if overheated. It's cheap, replace it.

Back to the leak: Let's address that. Everything else is a waste of time. If the heater hoses are indeed leaking, the rest of this is a wild goose chase. Post a pic of the leaking area - if they can be capped or looped, that'll get you back to normal.

Yup the shop can f*** off. Unlike the 4runner, qx4/Pathfinders very rarely will have head gasket issues.

The reason I'm suggesting replacing the radiator cap is because I went through your situation recently. I bought a qx4 and found out it had an overheating problem. The seller had mentioned the radiator was new but I didn't think to question him on it. I spent a weekend doing coolant changes, burping the system, and changing the thermostat but those didn't work.
What did work was I noticed the overflow bottle was boiling and figured if the radiator cap wasn't holding pressure then the coolant will boil at a lower temperature; creating air pockets in the cooling system. The air pockets prevent proper coolant flow which ends up overheating the engine.
I recommend you grab the pressure kit again and see if you can get the qx4 to overheat while maintaing proper system pressure.

AZhitman wrote: ↑

Thu Jul 11, 2019 11:18 pm

OK, let's slow down... I get that this is frustrating, but a couple things are apparent:

1) Leaking near 2 hoses in the rear. Those are likely your heater hoses. If you still have a leak, NOTHING you do is going to help. Period. Your cooling system is compromised. It won't hold pressure, which means it WILL overheat. The good news is you can loop those, you just won't have a heater. No big issue.

2) Your Pops sounds like he means well, but we already said there's nothing wrong with the fan. Revving the piss out of it isn't going to do anything. If he's not interested in expert advice, that's fine, but there was no reason to spend money on a fan clutch... or stop-leak.

3) Call that shop and tell them I said to F off. In fact, post their info so we can ALL call them. What were they planning to rebuild? IDIOTS.

4) A radiator cap can and will go bad if overheated. It's cheap, replace it.

Back to the leak: Let's address that. Everything else is a waste of time. If the heater hoses are indeed leaking, the rest of this is a wild goose chase. Post a pic of the leaking area - if they can be capped or looped, that'll get you back to normal.

The clutch seems original to the car anyhow. I don't mind updating the part since I can rule it out indefinitely now that it's not close to being a contributing factor. It was loosey goosey though! Is looping the hoses as easy as it sounds? Maybe I could attempt it?

He absolutely does. He feels like absolute crap for doing this to me. I'm having a hard time not giving him a hard time about it, naturally. Love him to death, but it's time to put the wrench down I think.

I will buy a cap when I get outta work for sure and will try to scoot underneath and get a good shot of it.

And by normal, do you think it could not only get me from A to B, but 1-2 hour trips back and forth? It's crazy to me that I made it an 1-1/2 to Providence and back so smoothly and something didn't happen then. I'm still baffled.

Here is the info for that garage:

Bing's Auto Service
(413)739-8641
http://www.bingsforeignauto.com/
https://www.facebook.com/BingsAuto/

*Just went through a bunch of their posts and they actually encourage people to use dryer sheets under the hood and in the air filters to keep mice out. Like wtf? I've NEVER seen that in my life.*

born2lse wrote: ↑

Fri Jul 12, 2019 10:26 am

Yup the shop can f*** off. Unlike the 4runner, qx4/Pathfinders very rarely will have head gasket issues.

The reason I'm suggesting replacing the radiator cap is because I went through your situation recently. I bought a qx4 and found out it had an overheating problem. The seller had mentioned the radiator was new but I didn't think to question him on it. I spent a weekend doing coolant changes, burping the system, and changing the thermostat but those didn't work.
What did work was I noticed the overflow bottle was boiling and figured if the radiator cap wasn't holding pressure then the coolant will boil at a lower temperature; creating air pockets in the cooling system. The air pockets prevent proper coolant flow which ends up overheating the engine.
I recommend you grab the pressure kit again and see if you can get the qx4 to overheat while maintaining proper system pressure.

I shall try this out! I'm glad in a way you've experienced this. It helps me get that much closer to solving the problem, or at least figuring it out.

qx4_girl wrote: ↑

Tue Jun 11, 2019 9:38 pm

My dad says that when he was working on my brakes that there's been a drip coming from the middle of the motor. Myself, any time I went to the car I never saw any puddles that looked unusual because I've been to HELL and back with my brake system continuously failing and dripping all over the ground(which is from the wheel well being cracked via whatever the way the previous owner(s) used to drive it - which was hard!). So any time I go over a bump, the line is being stressed. Why anybody would beat on a beautiful truck is BEYOND ME. So the way that I hit bumps was affecting the new line every time. Golly.

I've replaced the same damn line in the same damn spot because of what I stated previously due to the wheel well being cracked. So my dad and I finally "solved" the issue by bending a metal tube that will half-a** flex until I can find a steel-woven wire and c'est la vie, it'll be like brand-new. As far as overheating, the temp gauge was ALWAYS right in the middle of H and C. Perfectly normal. It never when up, never went down.

Holy smokes people, why has everyone ignored this statement.?
You have a cracked wheel well? Are you familiar with the strut housing recall that came out a few years ago?
This cracked wheel well is not caused by the previous driver or his driving style.
This is a known problem on these vehicles, and should have been checked before you bought it.
You are driving an unsafe vehicle, and it probably shouldn't be on the road right now.
I suggest you go to the nearest dealer and have the serial number checked to see if the recall has been performed.
If not, get it inspected immediately.
Worst case scenario is that the truck is a writeoff. Best case is a repair patch.
Either way, I'd get this thing checked out right away, before you sink any more money into it.
For info on the recall, search this site. There's a long thread on this subject.
Good luck.