Ok, well... Let's make this more clear, since apparently people aren't understanding here.AZhitman wrote:I can make this pretty simple for ya:
I'm still running the original TB on my KA, and I'm well over 300hp on 14 lbs of boost.
You don't need to change the TB - plus, it won't bolt up cleanly.
Well thanks for the input but we're already well aware of all of thiswankelTII wrote:Not really
You arent going to get any more air into the engine that way.There are things you can do. Just off the top of my head:
Something that people dont seem to get is a great upgrade - a sealed/pressurised ram air box. The duct from the front of he car dosent need to be that large (make it larger than the intake piping), but make the filter element as large as possible to reduce the pressure drop. This sort of thing is fairly simple, but do your hw.
You might pick up 5hp or so and alot of noise from a better flowing exhaust, this is what most people have. A really well designed exhaust manifold and exhaust system with a correctly placed merge collector will make for a sizeable power increase, but this requires either lots money, or lots of time and R&D work/expirementation/know-how and still alot of money. Just as much would be required to make an intake manifold that is actually better than stock.
port and polish - porting can slow air velocity so very little is needed
Having stock intake mani honed/ported/polished, again, the bigger the hole the slower the air moves. Just smooth things out.
cams - moves/affects powerband, but can be a great bolt on upgrade. Would be more beneficial if designed/timed to work with intake and exhaust manifold lengths.
Build the engine, lighter internals, higher compression etc (keeping the combustion chamber, bore, stroke, compression as close to stock as possible is a good idea) For N/A up the compression a small amount but keep combustion chamber as close to same shape as possible. Redesigning the combustion chamber is beyond mostly everyone.
Pretty much everything is going to require tuning (fuel/ignition). I would suggest modifying the stock maps in some way not starting from scratch with stand alone engine management. Piggyback, reflash, etc (GReddy E-manage ultimate!!!) Fuel delivery and pickup is also very important!
You can easily make your car alittle lighter, handle better, stop better, etc. so if you need something to do, just work on those things!
There is acutally alot that can be done with aerodynamics that can make some drastic improvements in many areas of performance, but thats like a whole nother page of typing and im tired, sick, and just took alot of medicine!
Wow. That's pretty condescending. I'll ignore that.WhiteSilvia wrote:Ok, well... Let's make this more clear, since apparently people aren't understanding here.
I've been building cars for decades, and that crap didn't work in the 60's - and it don't work now.WhiteSilvia wrote:We don't want to go turbo. We're trying to get as much power out of N/A as possible. One option for us is larger throttle body. Obviously this isn't a MAIN addition, but an optional one we're toying with.
What we're trying to accomplish is similar to what people have done on carburated engines for decades. The 'forcing cone adapter' that we're discussing is an adapter plate, yes, but it's design creates a wind tunnel, or vortex effect with denser air coming in. Thus forcing the dense air to compress on itself while going into the manifold.
It's just a simple idea, and Q45 throttle bodies aren't expensive at all. So we figure it's worth a shot.
again, pointless.1989240sx wrote:what about a incooler without a tubro would that help out or would it not be any help and have you guys seen sts tubro that go in the back of the car