using 4wd swaybar on on a 2002 nissan pathfinder 2wd

[highrollerzaudio]

ok my question is what the difference is between the 2002 nissan pathfinder 4wd swaybar an the 2wd i called 2 different dealership on said there the same part # the other said its different the only differance i could think of is maybe the 4wd one is thicker than the 2wd cause they look the same in the nissan service manual. i gettin one sent to me in a couple weeks to see if it fits. but seein if anyone knew b4 i took it off an it be a waste of time

[Towncivilian]

According to Courtesy Parts, the same rear sway bar is used on all 1999+ R50s. The FSM would also display the differences if the sway bar were different between 2WD and 4WD models. Be aware that the nuts securing the sway bar are supposed to be replaced if removed; see SU-20.

[miamiheat3332]

The FSM and other manuals say alot of stuff should be replaced. I just think one should use common sense to see if an item needs replacement or not.

I know one thing i read in my chilton manual is that the clip that is at the end of the hub, that goes in the cv axle groove, should be replaced each time it is removed. I probably removed mine 5-6 times on each side for rotors, etc. A new one came with the cv boot axle kit so i finally replaced it. But the old clip was still perfectly fine.

I also replaced my sway bar bushings front and rear, and reused the same bolts. If your bolts are severely rusted i would say replace them, otherwise i just dab a little grease on them so they go back in easier, and dont seize up just in case i need to remove them ever again.

[Towncivilian]

If you apply grease or anti-seize, the torque applied by a torque wrench is no longer accurate, since the grease/anti-size lubricates the threads and decreases the resistance for the torque wrench. But I'd say it's fine unless it's something critical like spark plugs, lug nuts, or anything else that absolutely requires the correct torque.

[miamiheat3332]

I put grease on most of the stuff when i replaced my struts/shocks and coils 3 years ago. I recently took it apart for the bushing job and took out the struts to change the boots, and all of the bolts were as tight as day 1 when i replaced the suspension. I also drive the truck hard.

I also have anti-seize on all of my cars lug nuts. All of my bolts also stay just as tight as they were when i finished the job, and when i rotate tires or something months/miles down the road.

This is also being said, i take very good care of my cars, and i do more maintenance and checks then most normal people so i will know when even something minor is off.

I do see problems for people who slap some grease anti-seize on the lug nuts, dont torque them properly, then treat the car like crap and dont check stuff for 2 years.

So i do agree with you to a point, but i have been doing this for a long time.

[highrollerzaudio]

oh im sorry i didnt tell which one i was meaning the front swaybar. im thinking it would

[highrollerzaudio]

yeah i do alot of pm checks to mine as well. my suv has 135k miles ive put on 90k of them an my suspension comps. like tie rod ends an ball joints are good figured i would done had to replace them it still has the original starter. only things ive changed is the belts, sparkplugs,o2 sensors, rear control arm bushings, an change trans fluid an rear end oil an the pm stuff. its the most reliable car ive every owned. how do yall feel bout trans flush i heard good things an bad when they start getting alot of miles. ive been throwin that dang 02 sensor code pq4?? for like 3yrs but with no loss of power i know there is a tsb bout reprogramming the ecm to higher emission values

[highrollerzaudio]

how many miles are these vq35de good for.. ive heard when ya get to about 185k ya start having trouble out of them an what bout the auto trans what kinda of miles are people gettin out of them.

[Towncivilian]

Since you've exchanged some transmission fluid before (presumably drain & fills?), you have nothing to worry about by doing a transmission flush (which just uses the transmission's own pump to exchange all of the fluid in the transmission - no "power assisted flush").

I'd say the engine and transmission will likely outlast the body of the vehicle assuming proper maintenance. The only caveat with the engine is the possibility of the power valve screws vibrating loose and potentially causing engine damage, but this is rare and completely preventable if one applies threadlocker to them. See this guide if you haven't yet.

What specific O2 sensor code is being thrown? ECM reprogramming may not be necessary.

The front sway bar is also identical for all 2001+ Pathfinders - see Courtesy Parts' disambiguation.

[highrollerzaudio]

yeah just drain in fills i usually do it every 50k an rear end oil every 30k..
as for powervalve problems ive never knew about that i just knew about are engines having sludge problems, an piston ring problem. how hard is it to do apply treadlocker to these bolts. an for the code it is p0430 (ive replaced o2 sensors twice with oem ones an light came back on a few days later) an the only issues with the engine i have is a lil oil comsumption i use only mobil1 10w30 full syntheic high milege which i change between 5k an 7500k cause there mostly highway miles an it usually lose about a quart all together which is from the piston ring problem i assume an thanks for the help

[highrollerzaudio]

just read up on the powervalve screws seems to be a easy fix

[Towncivilian]

I don't think our VQ35DE engines are known sludgers, and they don't have any piston ring problems as far as I'm aware. The only potential defect that can contribute to oil consumption is the passenger side valve cover baffles - read here. But you're only consuming about a quart every 5k to 7.5k - this is well within acceptable limits and is not excessive by any means, so I wouldn't worry about replacing or cleaning the valve cover.

M1 HM is an excellent oil, and your interval of somewhere between 5k and 7.5k is perfect. Our engines are known to shear oil rather quickly, so I wouldn't go past 7.5k even with a top-tier oil such as Mobil 1. Why do you choose 10W-30 oil rather than 5W-30, though? The 5W-30 will be thinner at startup, which is desirable to reduce start-up wear, while remaining the same viscosity at operating temperature. What oil filter do you use?

I would suggest removing the lower intake manifold while doing the power valve screws to replace the PCV valve. You'll need these parts to do the power valve screws and PCV valve:

• 16175-4W000 GASKET-THR (throttle body gasket)
• 14033-4W000 GASKET-MAN (first of two upper intake manifold gaskets)
• 14033-4W010 GASKET-MAN (second of two upper intake manifold gaskets)
• 14032-4W00A GASKET-ADA (gasket between upper and lower intake manifolds)
• [11810] POSITIVE CRANKCASE VENTILATION VALVE (sorry, I don't have the entire part number since my 2001.5 uses a non-threaded PCV valve)
  
  Use red (permanent, high-heat) threadlocker for the power valve screws since there's no reason to remove them in the future.

The cost for all of the gaskets from the dealer is rather excessive (somewhere around $55 to $70), so you may want to consider an aftermarket gasket set. This one doesn't include the throttle body gasket (it's around $5 from the dealer, just get it while you're getting the PCV valve), and the bottom two gaskets in the picture you wouldn't use in this case, but ultimately it's still cheaper than buying all the gaskets from the dealer. I would absolutely buy an OEM PCV valve since it's in a horrible spot, and it'd be irritating to re-do the job just because of some defective aftermarket PCV valve. If you choose to purchase the gasket set from Advance Auto Parts, order online and use discount code VISA, then pick-up in store to knock the price down to $24.59 before tax.

As for the P0430 code, your passenger's side cat is below efficiency specifications and should be replaced. Since you replaced the downstream O2 sensors twice, I'd say that rules them out as a possible cause of the P0430 code.

How many miles do you have on your Pathfinder?

[highrollerzaudio]

i use the fram xtended guard or Mobil 1 Extended Performance filter an ive always used 10w30 should i change to 5w30 knowing ive used it for 90k miles.. as for the code wouldnt i have done seen a issues from the converter this codes been on for like 60k miles an i still get decent gas milage i averaged 18 to 19 mpg on the interstate at 70mph on my last trip to a carshow an thanks for all the info i will do the (oem) pcv valve an powervalve screws with (aftermarket gaskets) within the next month or 2 gotta free up some time ill be replacing the front an rear swaybars (addco) an bushings (poly) an endlinks (poly) in about a month while i add the lowering springs an the missing link. shocks an struts were changed with the kybs about 6 months ago along with the rear control arm bushings (oem). it has 135k miles on it. the light came on about 70k an i took it to the dealer they wanted to charge me a $1000 to change the factory muffler an resisanator an for something else b4 the emission warrenty would even look at replacing the cat. i just never replaced the cat cause it never had any symptoms just the light which i always check time to time with my scan tool

[highrollerzaudio]

i will be changing back to the mobile 1 oil filter after this oil change after looking up the fram oil filter on youtube an looking up the mobile 1 oil filter i will never use a fram again im about to go buy the fram oil filter i always use an do a cut away on it since the video was a regular one but it still makes u think

[Towncivilian]

Switch to 5W-30 for better cold weather performance and a shorter warm-up time, there will be no issues. 10W-30 is becoming an obsolete spec.

The Fram XtendedGuard filter is very well made and I wouldn't hesitate to run one myself. The cheaper versions (ExtraGuard, ToughGuard, High Mileage) are the ones you should avoid. Here's a Fram XtendedGuard 7317 cut open - this is the one that fits our engine. Plenty of thick media, silicone anti-drainback valve, metal end caps.

Just because the P0430 code is being thrown doesn't mean the cat is clogged, it just means it's below the specified minimum efficiency level. If you don't have inspections in your state, I wouldn't worry about it unless mileage drops. Pull engine codes once a month or so to ensure no other codes pop up.

[highrollerzaudio]

when the time comes to change the cat what do you recommened oem or after market i found this one WALKER Part # 16344 for $245 or EASTERN CATALYTIC CONVERTERS Part # 40446 for $200 shipped

[highrollerzaudio]

i found the magnaflow cat 50832 for $214.72 at nolimitspeed.com

[Towncivilian]

Usually aftermarket cats don't last as long as OEM and probably aren't as efficient (which is why aftermarket cats listed on RockAuto can't be sold in California, I'd imagine), but I've read good things about Walker. I don't know about either of the other two.

Your prices for the first two cats you listed seem high. Check RockAuto for better pricing, and if you order anything be sure to use a 5% discount code.