Used flywheel/new clutch questions

Nissan 300ZX technical discussion forum: Maintenance, performance, installations, modifications, how-to's and troubleshooting.
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es.biggs
Posts: 2120
Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:32 am
Car: 1990 300ZX 5sp NA
Location: Charlotte, NC

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I received my RPS (segmented) flywheel today. It was advertised as only having 800 miles on it, and it looks that way also seeing it in person. One of the friction plates on it has a little wear and clutch material stuck on it but the other three are still pretty clean with a few spots of clutch material here and there. I am still looking for a clutch; I am looking into both used and new clutches...

Something I have been wondering...if I buy a new clutch, do I HAVE to put new friction plates on the flywheel? They look like they are used, but not enough to warrant $150 for new ones unless it is completely necessary. What are the affects of using the same plates on a new clutch? Also is there a way to clean the surface of the plates like with a scotchbrite pad or something similar?

Would pics of my flywheel help?

Sorry for the dumb questions lol I still have a lot to learn about clutches and flywheels and drivetrain in general.

I'm trying to be a smart spender...tuition and tools are kicking my arse along with my Z expenses. But I don't want to sacrifice performance and reliability just because of $150-$200 I don't want to spend on getting those plates.

So let me know what you guys think! Thanks
-Ethan


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BigTDogg (MA)
Posts: 4194
Joined: Wed Aug 29, 2007 8:26 am
Car: 1990 Nissan 300ZX TT
Location: Boston MA

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So my black Z came with a RPS Sport Street disc clutch, and RPS Segmented flywheel. The combo had about 18k on them. My build would overpower the RPS Sport in no time, so I needed a new clutch. I got a custom Southbend DXD from member Spddracer. I installed it on the old RPS flywheel because I didn't want anymore down time. I bought the replacement kit from SZ for the flywheel, but after failing to remove the screws with my impact driver, the thought of drilling out 24 screws and clearing those threads was too much for me. So I gave it a shot. I tried roughing it up with some 100 grit sandpaper, to no avail. Clutch material literally melts onto the steel, so you need to refinish it with a lathe or bridgeport to clear that off.

Very rough at first, slipped like a bastard all the time with any kind of boost. After about 600 miles or so and some adjustment, it gripped. I haven't dynoed yet or done any really aggressive launches and slipping, but it holds 14psi without issue now. I think I'll be fine, but the initial break-in was longer and I may have shortened the life of the clutch.

If you were using a new clutch, IMHO, definitely get the rebuild kit. It's not extremely difficult to do, just time consuming. If you're going with a used clutch you should be fine with the flywheel as is.


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