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C-Kwik »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/c-kwik-u426.html
Tue Oct 09, 2007 11:24 am
30 mm can really make a difference. While I won't argue about this particular combination of wheel size and tire size (I have my opinions on what it will do to tire wear), too wide of a tire for a given wheel can cause the center of the tread to want to bow out. How it affects overall traction will be dependent on a lot of factors, and it would be hard to gauge short of some skidpad and slalom testing back to back with controlled conditions and using the same model of tires. There is some anecdotal evidence that supports this with the 18x8's that are available for the G35 and the the 350Z. They used a 245mm wide rear tire on these and from what I can tell, there was a very universal complaint about the center tread wear on the rear tires. Interestingly, Nissan and Infiniti started using 8.5 inch wide rear wheels when they changed out the Z wheels, and upgraded to the 19's on the G's. I haven't heard much complaining with the newer sizes.
The initial difference in feel (positive) and/or traction can be attributed to many factors. Switching to a better tire would have a huge impact. But even if you select the same model, wider tires on the same wheel change how the tires respond. So much so that race teams, when allowed to do so, will purposefully size a wheel/tire so that the sidewalls are bulged or spread out depending on how they want the break-away traits to be. Switching to a new tire, particularly when it is the same or similar type can yield more traction. Worn tires have gone though many many heat cycles and have weathered the time it was on the vehicle. Tires age. As they age, they tend to become increasingly brittle and hard. They begin to lose some of their suppleness that helps adhere them to the road. Want a real eye-opener? Try shaving the tread of a new tire down to about half and then put it up against a new tire with full tread. The difference will generally be quite remarkable as the rubber will be new, but will have less tread squirm. A worn tire will not perform like this even if the tread depth was the same as the rubber will have been compromised. Of course I wouldn't recommend you shave every tire you get as it will have much less useful life and be less capabale in wet conditions.
But circling back to the tire bulge issue, the effects of this will be most noticible in tire wear on a street car. The race track however, may depict a much different story. Since tires are designed to work best in a certain range of temperatures, it is important to try and maintain an ideal temperature across the portions of the tread that are used. Ideally, this is across the entire width of the tread. But if the center does bulge, it can overheat that section of tire causing a decrease in traction. While it is possible to tune around it, typically, it is easier working with a flatter contact patch. A situation like this is particularly accentuated on a track as most people typically try to run higher tire pressures to get better load capacity from the tires (which generally requires less slip angle from the tires when turning).
Now I won't say blindly that this is the case here. The general rules of thumb can be worked around, whether it occurs intentionally or by chance. For a street car, I really wouldn't worry about it too much. Wide tires look sexy. I remember when I had my S14 and put 255's on it a guy who had brought in his Viper looked at my tires and thought I had some 300mm+ tires on it. Wide tires can really make a relatively narrow car appear to have a rather wide stance. And for all intensive purposes, if it feels better to you, then that's really what counts. The feel of a car inspires driver's confidence which is just as important as raw performance.