Upper Timing Chain Tensioner Performance???

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240sxOwner
Posts: 495
Joined: Mon Feb 10, 2003 11:37 am
Car: 93 240sx

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I recently did the whole timing chain replacement, and i saw after the fact that you need to compress the piston of the upper tensioner and submerse it in oil and release it....My chain rattles like it did before but not nearly as bad...Here is the thing.

When i start the car, the oil light comes on because i am not getting any oil pressure....i rev it a few times and it is fine, light goes off. While we were doing the timing chain, one of my friends turned the crank with the chains off and it wasn't in gear, i have not gotten my timing correct since. I have it set to 0 degrees but i can't adjust it because the distributor is all the way forward. Can the rattle be because of the timing being wrong? Is it a result of The upper tensioner? Or do i just have a problem with oil pressure/oil pick up? If anyone can tell me how the cams line up with the #1 piston at TDC it would be greatly appreciated...Sorry for the long post

-Mark


tonynalli
Posts: 1402
Joined: Mon Mar 15, 2004 5:59 am
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what type of tensioner did you put in it? becasue the after market ones are crap. its best to use the oem ones. what i did before i found out about it was put about 2 washers in behind the piston to make it have more pressure on the chain. and it worked pretty good.

Nismo_Freak
Posts: 10314
Joined: Wed Jul 24, 2002 10:42 pm
Car: 89 Nissan 240SX

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You rotate the crank over until it has lined up the TDC mark on the compression stroke of the piston. Distributer shouldn't go in when it's on exhausting stroke.

If you have to adjust the distributer that much you are off a tooth. Remove it... and adjust the gear over one tooth, re-install. You can do this ALOT easier with the valve cover off.

At #1 TDC you will need to line up the cam gear's dot to the yellow timing chain link.

At this point I would HIGHLY suggest an FSM.

spoolthis
Posts: 40
Joined: Mon Apr 26, 2004 11:07 pm

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Doesn't sound like you had the pan off.

I had the same problem and it was a plugged pickup tube. It must have been bits of the old tensioner. It was kinda fibrous stuff and had matted all around the screen.

I went ahead and put new rod/main bearings in it while I was down there. I don't know how long it had been running that way, but the bearings weren't as bad as I expected. Their bad attributes were not from lack of oil anyway. They had some funky pitting.

I see why people are reluctanct to pull the pan since either the subframe, engine or both need to be moved to make room.

Cheers


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