Upper Steering Shaft Coupler

[UnbeatenPath]

Hello all, I've been lurking here for a while and find myself stumped. I was in process of applying threadlocker to my power valve screws, when I noticed the bushing in the upper steering shaft appears to be blown out and loose.

Is there any way to replace just the bushing? I have searched over and over and all I can find is a metal bushing replacement for 240sx's.

Certainly, I don't have to buy a complete steering shaft just to fix this issue. While, the upper shaft and lower shaft seem to be in sync when turning, they're seems to be too much looseness in the joint. I tried to tighten the nuts/bolts to no avail, but, there is a decent amount of space in between the metal piece and the bushing that is contorted and no longer lying flat.

I haven't figured out how to post a picture yet, but, the part # is 48820-4W915. This is upper steering shaft, with the joint/coupler being at the base. The one closest to the firewall, not the lower one close to the rack.

Suggestions? Replace the entire shaft? try to find one in good condition at a junkyard? Try to gorilla arm the nuts and bolts together?

Thanks for the help, Matthew

[Hawairish]

A picture would help...try using PostImage.org. Easy interface and free.

I'll suggest this cautiously, considering it's a steering component and all, but it's probably not something to worry about unless you're noticing that it is causing binding. The upper shaft installs between the tail of the shaft in the steering column and a pivot box bolted to the chassis. As such, it's relatively stationary (minus rotations), and as long as it turns 1:1 with everything, then it should be functional.

At the same time, I'm curious to see what you're describing as a bushing. Is it the rubber disc-like material that flexes a little, commonly called a rag-joint?

[UnbeatenPath]

Thanks, I will try and get some pics up today or tomorrow. But, yes it is the rubber disc located by the firewall.
My steering feels too "floaty" going down the road and I'm wondering if this may be contributing as, everything else (tie rods etc...) I've checked seems to be tight with no play.

[Hawairish]

It shouldn't contribute much...it's just a damper, and it's actually supported by another piece that assists with the rotations so to not wear the rag joint down.

The blue circle is the joint itself (with the rag joint protected by a shield of sorts and slightly visible), and the green circle is the metal piece that assists the rag joint when turning:



Unless that piece is ragged or ripped, I don't think it's the problem. But if it does need replacing, you'll need to find it secondhand.

"Floaty" steering wheel feel is usually from tire toe-in/out. On our trucks, it may even be due to worn steering rack bushings.

[UnbeatenPath]

Thanks Man, I think you just answered my question. Mine looks just like that in the picture. Within the green circle, the rubber disc protrudes out and the metal piece looks kind of flared. I didn't know it was supposed to be like that. I thought maybe it loosened up and bent the metal piece.

Thanks for letting me cross that off the list. I replaced the steering rack bushings about a month ago and the passenger side wasn't that bad. I was trying to find anything that could be contributing to the "looseness" to replace before new tires/alignment. But, maybe in the end it just needs some fresh tires and an alignment!

Thanks, again

Matthew

[Hawairish]

No sweat. Yeah, the joint just allows for some movement, but it's really just a damper. There's actually another one on the lower steering link, too. Like the upper link, the lower link also doesn't see any flex except during turning. The material is about 1/4" thick, and a fairly dense material.


(ignore the green circle...unless you're removing the joint, then make sure you completely remove that bolt to fully collapse the link)

If the bushings checked out, then yeah, consider an alignment. Since alignments aren't cheap, though, there are a few ways to do a poor man's alignment check to see if you'll benefit from it (or a way to DIY). (Google "poor man's alignment" or "string alignment" and you'll see what I mean).

Beyond that, if the TREs are also good, other susceptible places include wheel bearings and a worn steering rack. If your truck is lifted, that could also be the problem...it can put the TREs at an angle that less efficient at resisting left-right feedback from the tires.

[UnbeatenPath]

Thanks for the heads up on the diy alignment. I will have to check into that. While, I do think my driver bearing has loosened up some again. I don't remember it helping the floaty feel, when I replaced, repacked and torqued them a few months ago.

Being that it's 2wd, I don't have any plans to alter the height or take it off road. Though my username is misleading. I bought it primarily for traveling, highway comfort etc...

[Hawairish]

Yeah, the wheel bearing is a minor suggestion...usually there's some noise associated to it.

On a side note, the FSM does spec some amount of steering wheel play. What they're actually measuring, and how, seems pretty vague. But, for the sake of argument...with tires pointing straight, truck off/parked, do you have significant play when rotating the steering wheel a little? FSM specs 35mm/1.38" as the limit. I tried it on mine, and I have <3/8" of rotation at the steering wheel grip.

[UnbeatenPath]

There does not seem to be much free play at the steering wheel. I think you may be right on the "toe out" part, the outer edge of my front tires seem to be wearing down more than the other sections