2007 m35 base rwd
Doing a routine oil change, wanted to drain my after market oil cooler, went to undo the the hoses to the sandwich plate. Snap! Cracked the plastic part of the oil pressure sensor. Went to oriellys and got a new one, went to torque it to 11 ft/lbs…….. bam cracked the upper oil pan. i have ordered a new OEM one from infiniti of orland park. along with the 2 o-rings and 2 front and rear gaskets and the oil filter pressure regulator. Other than the oil cooler gasket i believe i have accounted for everything. Has anyone else done this? Looks like i’m going to have to drop the subframe and support the engine from up-top. being that our cars are less common than others i haven’t really found much info on the job…. other than that it will be a complete PITA. If anyone has a work around for the this or short cuts/tips that will assist in making this go smoothly that would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Paging VStar650CL!

I've done plenty of transverse 3.5's and RWD 4.0's but no RWD 3.5's. I can ask our Z-maven on Tuesday, he'll have better answers than I do. For now I'll say there are no good shortcuts on either one of those. On the 4.0's you need to be very careful with the rear gallery o-ring, a leak back there will make your engine very sorry. Use new rings, period. Have a full tube of Gray Death and a seal cutter, the lower pan can usually be pried loose but the upper pan has to be cut.

I'm a little puzzled how you managed to crack the upper pan. If memory serves, the EOP sensor should be in the filter bracket and not the pan itself. The bracket should just be 3 bolts, although it may be in a bad spot (like everything else on an M).

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Sun Oct 31, 2021 11:11 pm

I've done plenty of transverse 3.5's and RWD 4.0's but no RWD 3.5's. I can ask our Z-maven on Tuesday, he'll have better answers than I do. For now I'll say there are no good shortcuts on either one of those. On the 4.0's you need to be very careful with the rear gallery o-ring, a leak back there will make your engine very sorry. Use new rings, period. Have a full tube of Gray Death and a seal cutter, the lower pan can usually be pried loose but the upper pan has to be cut.

I'm a little puzzled how you managed to crack the upper pan. If memory serves, the EOP sensor should be in the filter bracket and not the pan itself. The bracket should just be 3 bolts, although it may be in a bad spot (like everything else on an M).

It is for sure the upper pan, and the pressure sensor is right next to the “oil cooler” if it can even be called that. I cant complain too much, she hit 170k last week and has not given me a problem that i haven’t caused by modding it and a bad battery so far. Currently trying to find a engine support/hoist(not a cherry picker the other type blanking on the name rn) Does anyone know if harbor frieght carriers them? It wouldn’t be the worst thing to have around being that my plans for this car include 700+ hp, it’s got all the supporting stuff now(big oil and big trans cooler. Big radiator, full poly suspension, Tien Coilovers, tuned) Hopefully all the parts come in friday and i can get her back rolling the way she way mid day saturday

Yah, HF does have hoists. Several kinds as I recall.

SeveLampley wrote: ↑

Tue Nov 02, 2021 6:29 am

It wouldn’t be the worst thing to have around being that my plans for this car include 700+ hp, it’s got all the supporting stuff now(big oil and big trans cooler. Big radiator, full poly suspension, Tien Coilovers, tuned) Hopefully all the parts come in friday and i can get her back rolling the way she way mid day saturday

Hopefully you also put new connecting rods in the engine. Stock rods will give out at around 400 wheel horsepower and it would be very bad to have one of those snap on you, it would mean a new engine. With just new rods and fuel injectors you should be able to get 700whp on these engines, though of course new ARP bolts would also be something recommended at that point since you probably will not last very long on stock bolts before they are stretched out of spec. You may also need a thicker head gasket to lower your compression if you are not going with new pistons.
Sorry for the thread jack, just want to make sure you are safe about it and not about to blow your engine up.

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EniGmA1987 wrote: ↑

Tue Nov 02, 2021 7:57 am

SeveLampley wrote: ↑

Tue Nov 02, 2021 6:29 am

It wouldn’t be the worst thing to have around being that my plans for this car include 700+ hp, it’s got all the supporting stuff now(big oil and big trans cooler. Big radiator, full poly suspension, Tien Coilovers, tuned) Hopefully all the parts come in friday and i can get her back rolling the way she way mid day saturday

Hopefully you also put new connecting rods in the engine. Stock rods will give out at around 400 wheel horsepower and it would be very bad to have one of those snap on you, it would mean a new engine. With just new rods and fuel injectors you should be able to get 700whp on these engines, though of course new ARP bolts would also be something recommended at that point since you probably will not last very long on stock bolts before they are stretched out of spec. You may also need a thicker head gasket to lower your compression if you are not going with new pistons.
Sorry for the thread jack, just want to make sure you are safe about it and not about to blow your engine up.

Nope just bolted a 90mm t4 to her and hoped for the best lol, kidding, got a vq in my garage from an 07 m35 base, body was beat to high hell and interior was torn apart so i just pulled it out. currently peicing the motor part of the equation, will work my way from the turbo set up to trans to diff and axels when it’s time. i wanna get everything ready so i can just put it together and really not have to worry abt breaking it or overheating or anything else, it was tempting to grab the vq’s oil pan but i figure can hurt to have the new one

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i'm actually curious and want to see this cracked pan. is that weird?