Upper links and shocks

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Qgrappler
Posts: 78
Joined: Thu Jul 25, 2002 11:16 am

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Greetings to all

No questions this time, just an update, as Im taking a rest after having done the upper link and shock on one side. Upper link was no problem after breaking the bolts loose, and the upper anchor bolt which has tight access to the front side is easy if you have first removed the shock.

Compressing the springs was a PITA, using a v-shaped compressor I got from Harbor Freight for about $30. DIdnt put the jaws on far enough apart to begin with and had to do it twice, but eventually got it.

Little out of perfect line on the bottom bolt for the shock, but not so much that I couldnt slip it on and tighten it up.

For those who change shocks without the service manual, DO NOT LOOSEN THE NUT THAT ANCHORS THE UPPER ROD OF THE SHOCK UNTIL YOU HAVE REMOVED THE WHOLE ASSEMBLY AND HAVE THE SPRING SECURED IN A COMPRESSOR. The assembly comes out easily by removing the two nuts on either side of the center nut up under the hood, and then removing the large lower nut that holds the shock to the wheel assembly. The spring stays compressed against the lower lip of the shock and the upper mounting assembly which is held in place by that critical center screw.(no i didnt do this, at least, but I remember reading a post of someone who did.

I have the tension rods to do also, but Im going to postpone them until I feel like pulling the bottom cover, since it appears I need to do that to gain access to the inside bolthead.


DAEDALUS
Posts: 5421
Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2002 8:50 pm
Car: 1990 Infiniti Q45

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I thought the service manual says to loosen the top retaining nut before removing the strut. (Loosen, not remove--just to break torque.) Probably less tendency to spin the strut rod since the nut is unloaded by the car's weight against the spring.

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AZhitman
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Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 Z32, 91 GTi-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14, 23 Z.
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Qgrappler wrote:For those who change shocks without the service manual, DO NOT LOOSEN THE NUT THAT ANCHORS THE UPPER ROD OF THE SHOCK UNTIL YOU HAVE REMOVED THE WHOLE ASSEMBLY AND HAVE THE SPRING SECURED IN A COMPRESSOR. (no i didnt do this, at least, but I remember reading a post of someone who did.


That would be me.

Thanks for the painful memory.:rolleyes

Qgrappler
Posts: 78
Joined: Thu Jul 25, 2002 11:16 am

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Daedelus

yes, you are right. What the manual says to do is to remove the two side mounting nuts and the lower large nut on the shock, remove the shock assembly, mount the spring compressor on the spring/shock [ in a vise ], then loosen the piston rod (center) nut, and then compress the spring and remove the center piston rod nut.

I can certainly see how a hydraulic spring compressor would make you more eager to tackle this job a second or third time.

DAEDALUS
Posts: 5421
Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2002 8:50 pm
Car: 1990 Infiniti Q45

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Ah, fading memories. When I did mine the first time I didn't have a hydraulic spring compressor...just some cheap jack-screw ones that were a PITA. I figured I'd break the torque while the strut was still on the car. Works the same either way it seems...maybe safer to do when in the compressor.

Qgrappler
Posts: 78
Joined: Thu Jul 25, 2002 11:16 am

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In a burst of energy, did the tension rods today. As others have found, the arrow orienting the bushing within the rod's "socket" is pointing away from the rod itself...exactly the opposite of the way the service manual says to install a new bushing. (I bought the whole rod, busing included, and it comes the same way as the factory rod.)

TO my surprise, I also found the passenger side shock had a bent rod!! How in the heck did that happen!!! Was bent up near the top and the only thing I can think of that would do that would be a Steve McQueen "Bullitt" type impact after taking air over big bumps on a hill. Since I'm in my 50s ( I dont think it was me) and have to pay for things like this, I may have a chat with my 17 yr old son, who drives the Q most often.

I wonder how often anyone has seen such a bent shock rod???

I would guess it was 7-8 degrees bent. Also probably indicative that the shocks were worn, since it seems it would be harder to do that with a new shock.

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AZhitman
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Posts: 54538
Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2002 2:04 am
Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 Z32, 91 GTi-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14, 23 Z.
Location: Surprise, Arizona
Contact:

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Uh oh...

Somebody's in BIG trouble... :D

DAEDALUS
Posts: 5421
Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2002 8:50 pm
Car: 1990 Infiniti Q45

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Now all we need is confirmation that the bushing in the rod is the same as the bushing sold separately. Did you happen to get a part number off the bushing?

I really can't see bending a strut rod without damaging something else. It seems the frame would have to twist quite a bit for that to happen. My first thought was taking a curb at 25MPH. No bent rim?

911/Q45
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Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 12:10 pm
Car: 1990 Infiniti Q45
1996 Porsche Turbo

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17 year old son? Review movie "Ferris Bueller's Day Off"!

Qgrappler
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Joined: Thu Jul 25, 2002 11:16 am

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Well, I got tired of retyping the message I had written while attempting to figure out how to post a picture, I think I got it now, so here (I hope) is the bent shock piston rod for your viewing pleasure.

I didnt have much else to say anyway other than I never had a bent or damaged rim, there doesnt appear to be any frame damage , and................ I didnt get the bushing number out of the new tension rod.

reggiegsd
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Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 9:51 am
Car: '94 Q, '73 240Z

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Looks like its time to invest in a nice K Car for the kid to drive.

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QShip
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Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 6:04 am

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LOL!!


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