Upper ball Joint?

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LoxMurda
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Does anyone know if it is possible just to replace the upper ball joint or is it like the lower that you have to buy the entire control arm. I hear knocking when I go over bumps.
Modified by LoxMurda at 6:10 PM 5/24/2009


qship96
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What upper ball joint? Front has a upper link with 2 sets of bushing that wear- entire link is replaced for about $100 per side- simple to do, just 2 bolts.

maxnix
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Could also be your tension rod bushings. Can't be non-existant upper ball joint.

How about a little maintenance so we can help you? When's the last time andat how many miles did you replace suspension components?

LoxMurda
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Poly bushing in rear subframe 4.15.08

New tokico blue shocks 6.11.07

Brakes done 6.11 .07

New sway bar links 10.31.08

New oxygen senosors 2pre cat 3.28.09

Refurb. MAF 3.28.09

Reman. Rack and pinion w/inner tie rod..poly bushings..5.2.09

I shook my wheels around, I not sure of the name but it shaped like a shot glass, kinda where the hub assembly is, below upper control arm and I think bottom of the third link...if this makes any sense.

Modified by LoxMurda at 9:31 AM 5/21/2009
Modified by LoxMurda at 9:34 AM 5/21/2009

LoxMurda
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If You have a FSM for a 94. It's on FA-15 page 593. I think its the kingping. Its loose where the kingpin goes to the O-ring and steering knuckle. I just don't know what to buy or what i need.

maxnix
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Soundlike the kingpin.

Call Joe.

Refurb MAF????? Did you resolder the board?

LoxMurda
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I got the MAF from rockauto.com. Is the kingpin a piece by itself or part of someting more expensive.

maxnix
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Can't remember. Call IoS and they will tell you.

Q45tech
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Best to replace the entire third link [which includes the king pin and its bearings].

Allowing a upper link to stay too long allows the third link to bend increasing negative camber and eventually to bang back and forth wearing the king pin bearings.

All starts with failure to replace upper links every 30,000 miles.Just like failure to replace leaky tension rods causes lower link [traverse] to wear rubber bushing.

The weakest link starts the cascade of wear and failure.

The 90-96 Q45 front was complex [while looking simple] and required constant precise attention and frequent parts replacement. What happens when you avoid upper and lower A arm designs due to packaging constraints.

AlabamaDan
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I spent about $1000 replacing suspension items on my Q a while back and one thing I was looking to fix was a rattle when i go over bumps. I think it was the stupid clips that hold my brake pads on causing the rattle.

LoxMurda
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I just ordered the kingpin from IOS.

Q45tech
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Almost never the kingpin as it is a solid very hard metal component almost always the king pin bearings and the bearing sockets which support the kinpin in the third link.That's the rub you can change the king pin and its bearings and still have a sloppy system from bearings flexing in third link housing.

Please pay attention to avoid wasting money and time.

We have replace hundreds of 90-96 third link assembly and not a single individual kingpin after I did the economic analysis back in 2002.

Every curb hit needs a third link assembly replacement.

The point is after you do all the kingpin work and you go for an alignment you find excess negative camber caused by a minutely bent third link and brand new upper links won't fix it.

So the most cost effective method is to buy the third link with new bearings and an integrated new kingpin and replace everything then do the alignment.

LoxMurda
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What I witness when I rocked the tires was a loose fit where the kingpin goes into the hub assembly. If a is not the problem them what is. How much is a third link anyway

maxnix
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Call IOS.

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lino
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Upper Link $100Third Link (Knuckle arm) $150Lower control arm $270Tension Rod $115

LoxMurda
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Thank you

Haitian_King
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lino wrote:Upper Link $100Third Link (Knuckle arm) $150Lower control arm $270Tension Rod $115
Thank you! I believe I'll be replacing the upper links pretty soon and I was checking prices. This post was ultra helpful!

maxnix
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It isn't wise to have it aligned until front and rear are rehabilitated. It is even unwiser to drive it unaligned.

LoxMurda
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2 brand new tires out the door.

Haitian_King
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maxnix wrote:It isn't wise to have it aligned until front and rear are rehabilitated. It is even unwiser to drive it unaligned.
?

Too bad. I can't let it just sit. Duties call and all that jazz.

My post was thanking someone for a price. What was yours about?

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elwesso
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Im pretty sure that just buying the 3rd link is the way to go since you get all new kingpins, bearings and all that stuff...

After its all said and done unless you have a press you can use for free its gotta be cheaper... $150 for what your getting is not that expensive.

Lower control arm is a different story since you can replace the bushing with one from nismo and I believe can use the ball joint and seat from a Z.

LoxMurda
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Is the kinpin supposed to be loose in the steering knuckle?

maxnix
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Haitian_King wrote:
What was yours about?
Aligning the suspension. Pretty obvious, I thought.

Haitian_King
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maxnix wrote:Aligning the suspension. Pretty obvious, I thought.
Ahh. L'esprit d'escalier....


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