Upgrading my TT...running journal (Updated!)

[raremotive]

I can sense your distaste.

However, in the "overflare" widebody design your steel fenders still remain. But covered up. You have to cut away around the wheel well to allow your tires to travel. The integrity of the car is maintained, the removal of material isn't sufficient to compromise safety.

The styling actually has ques from gt-racing with improves in aerodynamics.

[DCaff300ZX]

Yep, understood...and why I've wondered how weight gets into the argument since the panels are added weight plus you ruin your car to use them. I'm OK with bolted overflares on the old Z's and the Hakosuka, but that's about it for me as it's just a taste/style thing. To me (and I LOVE them, first car I ever drove) I always felt the old Z's were a bit the typical cheap crappy little Japanese car in a lot of ways but with a lot of style and that balanced engine that revved like no 'Mercan motor, and in that the bolt-on's kind of fit the car in a way to me at least.
It also has a lot to do with the type of custom work I do which NEVER allows exposed fasteners of any kind and works hard to be creative with durability and performance at the same time as style; plus the old-school idea I admire that says improvements are best when integrated unnoticed, and at a better level of quality of work than the original item. I personally am not interested in much if any of the newer styles and aftermarket offerings because of lazy work on aesthetics, use of polygon shapes, and lack of quality materials in manufacturing. Plus LOTS of cheap plastic and crappy weak designs that fail quickly, no worries over exposed non-weatherproof fasteners, connectors, etc., etc...nope, not for me. Quite honestly my work has become much the same as we now have so many questionable styles come through, and even more questionable engineering all based upon the (lack of) money customers are willing to spend. Makes me shake my head every time, why cut yourself short based on budget or being easier time-wise?
I say no cut corners or missed details, do it right and the first time or not at all

[raremotive]

Weight gets in the argument due to FRP is under 1/3 of the weight of steel. Adding the kit is likely to add weight net, but considering the steel removed to allow tire travel. Overall it's much lighter than complete steel flare.

Durability depends on who manufactures them. But considering GM made the tire body of the C3 corvette out of FRP.

Fasteners are no supplied. So it's up to the customer/installer for weather proof connection. In the past I used to enjoy the clean look without fasteners. However, now that I know it takes time and money. I have grown to enjoy fastener connections to get you the functional needs. I am not a fan of having bright zinc fastners, but if you send the time to paint the heads. You get a more craftsmanship finish look than tacked on.

The styling is encouraging the diffuser effect in aerodynamics around the tires. In short, promotes down force with minimal drag penalties.



Again me being functional, I like results with little cost, I think it's pretty clever to blend the wide body with the diffuser features of a race car.

Bensopra hit the styling very well. Especially with intergration of vortex generators

I was only throwing out a suggesting. I do not expect your taste to land on it.

[DCaff300ZX]

Oh yeah, that's Pure Sex- both this and the Autotech GTR.
And no worries at all regarding your thoughts and everything here- there is no "rightest" way to go other than your own choice and I love chatting it up with you about ANYTHING regarding cars and mechanics. You know this, I met you from admiring the AMAZING idea and work you began on your Z so long ago, and hope like crazy you ever get back to again. Your build would have been/can be one of a kind and your level of undertook work amazing and FAR beyond anything I'd ever imagine or consider!
I myself am admittedly a ways behind the times- I see the new and admire the values but truly admire and want for the recent past. I was a hardcore Ford V8 guy for many many years and knew of turbo tech, just didn't trust it or know anything until many years later, now. I can't believe I ever doubted what turbo tech can do and that I waited so long to experience it, but am unable to change who I am in that way moving forward with new tech. My appreciation of many of the current tech and styles will not evolve for a few years or more if at all, and as I've mentioned revolves around my own world a lot, and of bespoke coachbuilding techniques I've never felt I would be able to use and enjoy myself.

The Autotech GT cars are probably among my favorite auto racing styling other than the old school group B and such of the 80's and Japanese racers of the 90's, but I also love many of the current GT cars and the Riley Ford and Corvette Daytona prototype cars with the massive Functional Aero and HUGE grip. Fun cars on Forza to race AND look at, last step before F1 or mind-bending experimental.
But then again, the bespoke creations of the past from the old time coachbuilders are actually even more awesome to me- The old #66 Chaparral , Ferraris, and McLarens to name a few only would have been AWESOME metal-bending ventures to watch be created! Put a new-world motor/controls system in them and maybe lose a few pounds here and there with CF and I bet they could still be relatively competitive, if the owner was crazy enough to risk his investment. The 757b still has plenty of power, wish they updated and still raced that amazing machine regardless of the thirst of the beast!

Sadly though, not a world I will get to be a real part of other than like the rest of us, from afar...or ever do more than perhaps mimic a personally-loved style slightly (GT-R rear fender pumping) properly during my repairs while also adding some hidden-bolt-on, minimal performance, styling aero to make my Z look a little bit racy in a way I admire, and MAYBE afford.
We'll see, I am still FAR from able to even do an OEM replacement...and I REALLY want to do some seam stitching and maybe more if possible when she's all opened up.

[DCaff300ZX]

And, I also have dpm on my mind and which could also become reality if she needs a respray. Almost certainly would happen if I respray even though sapphire is also a favorite, but with the G that color...a custom dpm would just be pure awesomeness

Also, an update on the air guide performance as during a few hot days last week driving the car to work, she did reach 87+ degrees celsius a few times in traffic before the coolant cycled and then back to 81-84. So the air guides do keep the temps a tad lower when moving (79-83 C) and with lower than 60 degree F air temps, but not much change otherwise from my normal engine heat ranges (80-85 C) when air temps are above 60 F.
Unfortunately this somewhat changes my happiness with the PTU harness fix as the engine still acts differently, if less drastically now, at less than 83 degrees celsius than it does above 83 degrees. I intend to do a full sweep on the turbo system and hoses and all vacuum and connections, being SURE all is well. I semi-suspect a small vacuum/boost leak with the new hoses due to the fact I've had to tighten the fuel lines three times now in 6 months, and feel this move may well sort out the 1% bug I am looking for. Failing that I will power balance test the ignition coils with known good extras I have and hope that fixes it...not much else that hasn't been replaced or serviced!
Any further advise, rare?

[raremotive]

Hmm leaks.. good times...

with engine running:

for positive pressure .. water and soap in a spray bottle .. and a very attentive eyes..

for vacuum... starting fluid, or methane gas.. and very attentive ears...

should spot a leak in not time.

[raremotive]

Remembered why things have disclaimers..

Methane/butane gas is usually from a small lighter. As a word of precaution, always do in an open air environment. And only spray the hose connection. We are not trying to discover electrical discharges.

It's possible to make a soapy mix with a evaporate flammable. Might require a little R&D with an intentional vacuum leak to make sure it's working correctly. But precaution is the same. liberal sprays around the connection and a catch towel below.

[DCaff300ZX]

Thanks dude!
I've done the soapy water looking for boost leaks, but the flammable idea for vac is awesome...and yeah, will have to try with a sure leak to hear what it sounds like first.
Working on new arm rests as well, hope to have them working this weekend as they jilted me earlier when epoxy failed, and I must find an alternative mounting method...damn epoxy.

[DCaff300ZX]

UPDATE-
So as I mentioned, I have replaced the previous arm rests I made with new ones- lower profile, a bit longer and with a wrap down the front side of the door panel.
Here's some pics and a description of what was done for anyone interested in taking on this job.

Tools/products used are:
A simple fine tooth bladed saber saw
Rough 80 grit sanding block
Utility razor knife and straight edge
Loctite high strength water/heat resistant contact adhesive
5 minute epoxy (DO USE!) and NOT wood glue for waterproof outdoor results
IPL panel adhesive (use this product before ANY other panel adhesive) for the same waterproof results
Gorilla Tape (strong enough hold and usually doesn't lose/transfer adhesive, cleans well if it does) to final hold/install arm rests, and a few quick key hidden foam padding holds
High density 3/8 inch foam and 1/8 inch wrapping foam
Some crappy thin excess cloth plus final outer cloth wrap
A pencil
Masking tape to hold gluing parts, NOT for final product!

Most is easily purchased at Lowes, Home Depot, etc. I have gotten my wrapping cloth and foam padding from work excess, but all can be purchased at a fabric shop.

Just a fun way to spend a couple of evenings with some simple hand tools, other than the power saber saw. BTW, the mdf is VERY soft and able to be cut easily with a hacksaw or other finer-toothed saw choice if you choose, and then rough sanded to shape with a block and 80 grit sandpaper.

Here's the cores after patterning/cutting/fitting (eyeball rough large sizing/ saber saw cut out, fine tune draw in, saw trimmed/sanded with block/80 grit to fit) to the door panels...


...1/4 inch mdf epoxied together with a compound joint for strength.
BTW, I used an approximately 5% angle as you can see to blend the front edge into the door panel better- while fitting you should see what I mean.
This can be sanded in roughly with the sanding block, and you can use masking tape to pull the joint together and stabilize it in perfect position while the epoxy dries.
Ease your outer edges and especially corners at least a little if not round them some as I've done here- it will make your finished outer edges feel softer, and you don't get "raised/bulging" edges and corners.
I went for a test fit at this point to ensure correctness.
Crap, too thick! I wanted MAYBE 1/2" tall max finished height, not 7/8+". Plus, the fronts just aren't wide enough...
So I then completely changed directions with the style of the arm rest, making all new ones and didn't photo those changes- basically I reversed direction from 1/2" thick top w/ 1/4" thick front to 1/2" front (thicker, and now also wider) and 1/4" (thinner) top- but the method used to create a solid front joint is still the same as pictured, but reversed- imagine the front edge 1/4" piece is instead the single 1/4" top piece to go about making the exact lap joint I used- front piece of the now two front pieces is wider to cap the front, with the two pieces glued and clamped or taped together- this joint has the best strength for the job.


Fuzzy shot of one rest with high density foam top surface, other then with the following 1/8 inch foam wrap before (unpictured) a thin, "any old cloth" wrap to hold the overall shape better, then finally the outer wrap- both still to come...use contact spray sparingly as possible to avoid incorrect drying but still ensure each level is bonded tightly, or things will begin to come loose. Be SURE to follow application directions, and mask against overspray where you are working! Also a heads up that padding gaps/lumps will transfer badly on the final surface so keep that in mind, and is a reason (smoothness) for the crappy cloth layer wrap I used (past experience here) before the final outer layer wrap.
Trim your padding carefully as you go and note how things bunch up, any fastening difficulties with padding buildup, and where your cut/fit difficulties will lie with the final layer...this is your practice for the final layer! BTW, I have 6 total sets now so don't feel bad if you mess up, or change your mind on something...and I will say this is not the easiest wrapping job for sure.


...and now both ready for final wrap. Sorry, forgot to take wrapping shots as I was in a hurry (3rd set...)


And next day, here are the finished items taped in place as the IPL dries. Big blobs or round "donuts" (not TOO big, be mindful of adhesive oozing out edges) of IPL work best placed in 4 spots near corners, plus some small dabs at the front edge for stability, then Gorilla Tape in place being careful to not rub holding tape in TOO hard (avoiding possible adhesive transfer to your door panel), just enough to hold the rest firmly in place. The tape holds very well and the IPL product is an excellent industrial-grade adhesive that gets very hard, but stays SLIGHTLY pliable...we'll see if it's up to this task while also bridging gaps. Using a very sticky tape such as the Gorilla tape avoids the inevitable stretch and grip loss masking tape has- this has to be held firmly in place for 1 hour+, and cure for another 2-3 minimal for usable strength- and 24 for final strength.
Note the dimension changes to the rests, and mounting holes in the tops that disappeared.
Again, the fronts are now 1/4" thicker and top 1/4" thinner for the lower profile I wanted, plus the glue fastening method change. Still a tad thicker than I wanted at about 5/8" above the "deck height" of the regular door panel arm rest ledge, but hey- I can always rip 'em out and try again with different products if my personal picky-ness says so.








Everything needs a cleaning from the mdf dust and I need to make some cloth "tube" finishers for the gaps at the ends plus further detailing, but easily done next weekend after everything is well dried and tested for re-glue/another Z repair project/Total Redo. All possible!

Up next is perhaps adding some key red interior bits from the NA while fixing the rear interior situation trying to finalize the interior somewhat for now, and adding the front wheel spacers, plus a few new ZSpec bits coming in the mail soon...stay tuned!

[DCaff300ZX]

FINAL UPDATE HERE- (although I will leave this open)

It was brought to my attention that the early page images from imageshack no longer post, and looking at later shots up until just recently shows many have degraded or are corrupted, and are worthless pics...damn!
Must be due to how long this thing has lasted...definitely amazing to me.

So I will make a new thread trying to replace the early stuff, and also condense things more than this thread...so if looking for specific shots be sure to check the new thread if necessary.