Upgraded Fuel Rail questions

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
MATTs14
Posts: 439
Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 8:13 pm
Car: Red 1995 Nissan 240sx

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Ok guys I'm gonna be running RC engineering injectors as well as a PALLNET -8 AN fuel rail. My question is how do you guys go about running your feed line from the stock hardline to the rail. The hard line is 5/16 and the closest thing to that is -6 AN but will be too big. Also how do you go about attaching the braided hose to the hard line? I've seen some do clamps before like a standard rubber hose. Will this suffice or are there other methods. Thanks!


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Fibre guy
Posts: 712
Joined: Sun Mar 08, 2009 12:57 pm
Car: 91' s13 RB25DET, 95' s14 bone stock, 87' Wrangler 4.6L stroker

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If your really paranoid about it use a flare nut on the hard line.Just know that something is only as strong as the weakest link and there is a normal rubber hoses running off the fuel tank to the hard line for both the feed and return.Normal fuel injection hoses are fine, most people just run braided for the looks.

MATTs14
Posts: 439
Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 8:13 pm
Car: Red 1995 Nissan 240sx

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I just really need to know how to get hose from the hard line to the rail. Should i just use a barb fitting on the feed side? I'm gonna be using a Sard FPR so it will simplify things i guess if i just do barbed fittings instead of the braided lines. If i were to do braided though could i treat it like a standard rubber hose and slide it over and clamp it?

And will I need the extra capacity of the 8 AN fuel rail or will the 6 AN be good enough? Thanks

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Shocker
Posts: 2082
Joined: Sun Aug 01, 2004 2:40 pm
Car: 89 240sxHB rb26/30

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I ran into this same issue with my lines. I used a flare nut off my factory 5/16" feed line, as well as my return. I steel braided everything, modified my factory fuel rail by welding on a -6 fitting, and buying the FPR delete -6 fitting, bought an earls filter, and SS braided -6 lines.

I'm kind of against rubber lines, I've had a hose come slightly loose that was double clamped on the highway. Thank god for my good nose and I pulled over. Fuel was everywhere under my hood due to the leak. Could have been very bad..

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-165056ERL/

robbie2883
Posts: 605
Joined: Thu Jun 01, 2006 5:36 am
Car: 1998 RB25 Kouki

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you want to use one of these compression fittings. works perfect

http://www.summitracing.com/pa...large

*edit...missed the previous link

MATTs14
Posts: 439
Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 8:13 pm
Car: Red 1995 Nissan 240sx

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Ok so the red part slides over the line, the flared piece sits at the opening of the fuel line and the blue piece tightens down on there correct? Is there any sealant required at all.

Thanks you guys i wouldve never found that

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placham
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Car: 1992 Geo Prizm (4AFE)---Gone
1990 Nissan 240sx Coupe (RB20DET powered),
1994 Toyota Celica GT (3SGTE swapped), 1995 Nissan 240sx KA24DE,
2011 Nissan Sentra SER Spec-V

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MATTs14 wrote:Ok so the red part slides over the line, the flared piece sits at the opening of the fuel line and the blue piece tightens down on there correct? Is there any sealant required at all.

Thanks you guys i wouldve never found that


looks like compression fitting I use at work on semi's for air lines.

Yeah red part would slide over line, gold "compression ring" would also slide over line, then line it self slides into blue fitting. And when you tighten the blue and red it compresses and crimps gold ring. I never used any sealant and never had an air leak. And seems like this fuel fitting works same way so it shouldn't leak. And compression ring is one time use deal.


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