Upgrade time, a few tech questions

[BaliLover]

I am getting ready to upgrade my SR again, this time concentrating mainly on the valvetrain.

I am looking at some HKS Cams, 256 intake, 264 exhaust but I don't know if I should go with step 1 or step 2. I know step 2 recommends changing valve springs but from what I've read the HKS units aren't good and actually softer than stock.

I don't want to pull the head, so what is the best method to change out the valve springs with the head on. I know to use the air compressor fitting that goes into the spark plug hole, but I've been told that the common spring compressor won't work, and since this is a one time affair (hopefully) I don't want to spend $100 on a new tool. Is there a trick to doing this with relatively quick speed?

I plan to do the springs at the same time I do the cams, so at least I'll already have alot of the stuff in the head out of my way.

My other question, is do you have to remove the fuel rail to remove the injectors, or can they be replaced without removing the rail? Also, are the 300zx injector o-rings (both big and little) the same as the SRs? I've got some 740cc Tomei injectors but I have to install them once I get the car to the dyno which means side of the road mechanics again, so I'd like to get all my ducks in a row.

[fantabulous]

i wouldnt upgrade cams unless i had upgraded valve springs, retainers and rocker arm stoppers. its just insurance. if u dont want to remove your head, i've seen people insert rope through the spark plug hole and turn the crank by hand until the piston pushes the rope up against the valves. but the u need the tool to remove the valve springs, its like a special pry bar. but the thing is, the tool normally comes in a kit that has the fittings for you to hook up shop air to compress the cylinders. so u might not even need the rope. snap makes a kit. im sure many other companies do also.

[Movingviolation240]

You won't see much of a difference between step 1 and 2. My advise is do what I did, run 264 step 1's on both. Run the RAS, don't shift at 8500rpm and you'll be allright (even RAS have their limits... but SR's run pretty good on just 3 cylinders.... don't ask how I know this).

I remember reading that the dif. was somwhere under 4 or 5rwhp between step 1 and 2. Unless you have a moster turbo that needs that extra lift I wouldn't worry about it. I'm also not a real big fan of running stagered cams anymore. I did the 264's and it was fine to drive everyday. Nope that helps a little.

BTW if you don't already have one I would recomend doing an 02 housing before cams, it would give you a larger improvement IMHO for the money.

Paul

[BaliLover]

Paul,

I've got the RAS and o2 housing already, 3"down pipe, test pipe, and N1 exhaust. I also cleaned up the exhaust manifold a bit just to get rid of the rough casting crap.

I've been talking to Enthalpy about tuning the car with the 740cc injectors I just picked up, and he suggested the 264 step ones the same as you did. We were talking about 18psi, but I don't know if the headgasket can handle that much boost or if I really need to change it first.

[Movingviolation240]

Well I was running right at about 20psi on my stock HG, I never had a problem... I've seen some S14 SR's blow them at like 12psi though. Might just be a difference between the 2 years though. I'd say 18psi would be safe, especially if you have the fuel (which you do) and it's tunned right (i.e. Scott) it wouldn't detonate and that's the biggest thing that kills head gaskets.

Paul