Update boyeee!!

[r34 gtr]

I just really wanted to show you how cool my ignition coil setup was, and to maybe create a thread that I can keep reviving, instead of creating tons of dumb ones (that's using the 'ol noodle!). Anyway, so far we have mounted the ignition setup, and gotten the front on the engine. Exhaust manifold is properly installed - yes, that means ALL the bolts! Amazing, I know. And the vacuum lines and coolant lines have been run and/or simplified/removed.

Here you can see my ka24e TB mounted and ready to go. thanks bwana!



We decided this was the best place to mount the coil. The 1996 ford mustang GT plug wires are long enough to reach almost anywhere in the engine bay, but this seemed like a nice clean spot that would keep things out of the way.



By the way, the coilpack cover will not fit over these plug wires, but we thought it looked kinda mean so for the time being we will leave it like this.

I am off to the junk yard tomorrow to get the plugs I need to make this thing go vroom. Hurt knuckles, here I come!!

[Masterdebater]

ummm question...why did u change to plug wires instead of coil on pack? isnt a DIS system "better" than the older plug wire system? and by the way..u deserve some kind of medal for getting all the bolts on just the other night i was doing mine and no luck with those bottom two.so congratulations man haha maybe one day i shall knwo the way :/

[ca18det240hatch]

the two nuts i call "***** nuts" ? the ones underneath the manifold you need to get from under the car? damn man, i wish i could be there to do it for you, i have a trick, but like i said before, i cant really explain it. Do you have the o2 housing off?

[Masterdebater]

no the o2 housing was on still lol...maybe thats the problem?eh fuk it theyre on just not tight lol. plus i have a custom steel braided oil line which is like right there in front of one of the bolts haha

[ca18det240hatch]

yah, thats the problem. I ALWAYS take off the o2 housing, it just makes things much easier, dont get me wrong tho, theyre still a ***** to get on.

[Masterdebater]

k ill have to keep that in mind...does having a tubular manifold help with the whole process? lol

[ca18det240hatch]

as far as i have heard, tubular you can actually reach the damn things.

(=

stupid cast manifold....im gonna melt it down when i get my TM manifold.

[The_Chosen_One]

ummm question...why did u change to plug wires instead of coil on pack? isnt a DIS system "better" than the older plug wire system? and by the way..u deserve some kind of medal for getting all the bolts on just the other night i was doing mine and no luck with those bottom two.so congratulations man haha maybe one day i shall knwo the way :/

He's using the FORD EDIS ignition. COP and plug wires have there pros and cons, dont forget top fuel dragsters that produce 8000hp use plug wires.

[ca240sxcoupe]

i have a ssautochrome tubular manifold and it is a hell of a lot easier but its still no fun task.........

[themadscientist]

I use a wrench on those nuts. it barely slips in there and I can get like 1/16th of a turn before I have to flip the wrench over. even my topmount is a pain. I have to remove the compressor housing and make a stubby allen wrench to get the oil return line bolts tight.

[ca18detgabby]

what did you put inplace of the IACV? my ac lines never came and the cost to create them is more expensive than I care to pay. I wanted the piece gone completely but a big whole in the plume would kind of be..... well not work at all.

[The_Chosen_One]

he's using Megasquirt which is a MAP based system. IF you look at the pics he removed the IACV completly by adding a block off plate, he most likely will use his throttle body thats cracked open a little for his idle.

Tim my setup is more stealthier and sweeter looking than yours

[c-rad]

...but a big whole in the plume would kind of be..... well not work at all.

WTF is a plume?

[The_Chosen_One]

I think she meant to say plenum.

[r34 gtr]

yours may be stealthier, but I plan to make a cleaner job of the wiring. HA!

and yes, i blocked off the aicv with a bit of cast aluminum plate. there is a gasket between it and the manifold, as well as some rtv silicon. it shouldnt leak.

I may need some help with getting this base map properly set up, so expect me to harass you sometime this week mang. finally found the software for my usb to serial adapter so i can load the ms2 up with the new map.

[The_Chosen_One]

cleaner wiring? bish please the only wiring you can see is the injector area and IAT, everything else is hidden.

[r34 gtr]

dude, thats like all the wires you need for the ms2. edis module can go freaking anywhurr.

[The_Chosen_One]

dont forget VR sensor, fuel pump yea thats what I thought boyee, fuse block

[Sil40sK]

How's that PCV setup work? It seems like under load it would build up a fair amount of pressure in the crankcase.

[r34 gtr]

the pcv system can go to hell. i dont know, ive still got all the breathers running to and fro, so it shouldnt be a problem. we will find out soon enough, and if there is a problem i will just go and fix it.

[Bwana]

Glad the t/b made it and is workin' for ya!

[themadscientist]

your throttle cable is loose.

[Not_a_sr]

mines stealhier then both of yours... and have you hidden your chassis harnesses yet? mine ended up being a total of 6 wires in the rear harness and 5 wires in the front harness, but i dont have popup lights or wipers anymore

look around about the PCV system, i am probably going to route mine into my downpipe after my O2 sensor.

also you can run a dodge neon coil and use plug wires from somthing else so you can run your coil cover, i dont even know what my wires are from, but they are low profile.

[r34 gtr]

I had to modify the crap out of the throttle cable bracket to get it to be as tight as it is. It really isnt very loose though, and we have gone through and made sure the thing works properly. No worries!

I dont think I am going to bother with hiding a whole lot of the chassis harness right now, I really just want this thing running again. We are doing the rest of the wiring today in my neighbor'sair conditioned shop. its brightly lit, cold, clean, and has at least 10k worth of tools in it. I will get many a picture today, oh yes.

[r34 gtr]

update tiiiimmmeeeeee!!

ok, since the last installment we have wired up all but the vr sensor and the iac deal. my dad is making the bracket for the vr sensor at work today, and the iac thing is well, i havnt bought one yet. I will this afternoon though!! We replaced the power steering lines, but we had to use heater hose because advance didnt have any 1/2in p/s hose. for the record the one that have on file for the 240sx is WRONG, so dont go in there looking for a replacement. it seems they only have 3/8in hose.

by the way, we didnt use the air conditioned shop because it rained here and the temp dropped to 75 the whole day. couldnt have asked for better conditions. we were in my garage, so f*ck the rain.

Here is the wiring a few days ago. you can see where we mounted the edis module. it looks rough now but we got it sorted out the next day.



This is how the wiring looks as of today. much cleaner no? its no world class wire tuck deal but its clean enough for me and thats all that matters. we mounted the msII fuse block to the firewall, and ran the manifold harness under it.



Here is the wiring for the intake manifold. I probably could have cleaned it up a bit more but I kinda got tired and called it a day. the wires for the tps go under the plenum so they are hidden.





This is the temporary mounting place for my afX wideband controller. Its just plywood with a cutout in it, so you can see the grain and it doesnt look very good. this is just for the time being, as I will probably mount a few gauges in that place too.



This is just a shameless interior shot. no real purpose behind this one but to make you wish your 240 was as cool inside as mine. enjoy!



oh, and yes that is a towel on the dash. it was sitting in the sun outside and i wanted to keep the dash from cracking. new insurance cards in the seat. woot for insurance!

Anyway, thats about it for now. I will get some more pictures up probably tomorrow when its ready to be fired up. sorry about the quality of some of the pictures, my camera phone doesnt like my dark garage.

[beans33]

Hey tim are you using the stepper control for the idle or just using the throttle body plate ? Im currently assembling my MS2 and it got to were it ask if I was using the stepper thingy(?) or another kind of way to control idle.. if you could help me out on that it would be great.. by the way I like where the coilpack is.. hope it turns out nice, your only about 2 hours away from me. maybe we could meet up and share our MS tips.

[The_Chosen_One]

If you plan on using the stock idle valve than you just give it ground and switched power. Im using the IACV on the side of the plenum the green solenoid. you can wire it up 2 ways give it power and ground and a switch in between so before you start the car it'll activate the solenoid. Or have MS control it via the FIDLE circuitry, the FIDLE wire on the harness is the signal ground so you have to provide switched power. If going the MS route in Megatune for idle control I believe you use Solenoid as the algorithm.

Idle Control Settings

The basic idea of IAC is that the motor or PWM solenoid starts out with a large opening of the air valve at cold startup, then gradually closes as the coolant temperature rises. The basic motor position at any given time is determined from the input table of step position versus coolant temperature. To this basic control algorithm, several features have been added as described below. You need to set MegaSquirt-II (or MicroSquirt) to tell it if you have a fast idle "solenoid type" valve or a stepper motor IAC, or neither. These are selected under Settings/Idle Control in MegaTune:



If you have an IAC stepper motor, you will have to choose between 'moving only' and 'always active'. If you set your stepper to 'always on' for 15 min or so and it doesn't feel too hot to you, then you can leave it that way. Apparently this is what General Motors does. But if you want to be safe you can test it on the bench for 15 min or so. It will get right warm, but it shouldn't burn your fingers just touching it. If it gets too hot, use 'moving only' instead.

Algorithm (IdleCtl): If you have a:Fast Idle Valve (FIdle): For an on/off fast idle valve, set the algorithm to 'Solenoid'. You can also set your Fast Idle Threshold if you have installed a fast idle solenoid. Enter a coolant temperature to turn on the fast idle solenoid. A typical value is 145º Fahrenheit. The Fast Idle valve will be activated below this temperature (145ºF) and turned off above 145ºF. The Fast idle Threshold is independent of any warm-up enrichment. Fast idle valves generally have one or two wires.PWM Warmup: This is for the Ford or Bosch pulse width modulated idle air valves. Ten temperature dependent levels of PWM are user specifiable if this option is selected (see 'Idle PWM Dutycycle' under 'Tables'). Modifications to the board are required, see this link for more details.Idle Air Controller (IAC): If you have a stepper motor IAC, you can set the IAC Start position, as well as ten intermediate positions based on the coolant temperature to allow a decreasing amount of "extra air" as the engine warms up. These are set under 'Tables/Idle Steps' in MegaTune. Stepper motor IACs usually have four wires.IAC Stepper Moving Only: Powers the stepper only when changes in pintle position are requested. This is the most common type, it holds its position if not powered, and is difficult to turn by hand.IAC Stepper Always On: Powers the stepper at all times. Required if your stepper 'free wheels' when you spin its pintle un-powered with your hand.15 Minute IAC: This operates the IAC stepper motor as 'always on' for 15 minutes, then switches to 'moving only'. This can be useful in some situations in which the stepper moves unreliably if moving only at the lower voltages of cranking and warming up, etc.To select the appropriate 'Idle Control/Algorithm' for stepper motor control in MegaTune you may need to do some testing. In some cases setting the stepper motor to "IAC Stepper Always On" will cause the IAC to get hot. However setting it to "IAC Stepper Moving Only", might cause a problem with idle speed changing from one start to another.

You can test if your IAC is suitable for 'always on' by leaving your stepper powered on the bench for 15 min or so. If it doesn't feel too hot to you, then set it to "Always On". Apparently this is what GM does. But if you want to be safe they should test it on the bench for 15 min or so, or monitor it closely in the car while not moving for at least 15 minutes, checking the IAC temperature frequently with your fingers. It may get warm, but it shouldn't burn your fingers just touching it.

Leave the other values (below) alone, you can experiment with them when you get the engine running.

Time Step Size (ms) (IACtstep): IAC stepper motor nominal time between steps (i.e., 2.5 milliseconds gives pulse frequency of 400 Hz).

Acceleration Step Size (ms) (IACaccstep): not currently used.

Number of Acceleration Steps (IACnaccstep): not currently used.

Start Value (IACStart): The number of steps applied to retract the IAC pintle to 'wide open' at power up.

Cranking Position (IACcrankpos): During cranking, extra air may be useful in the same way as extra fuel in cranking pulses. The table value for the starting temperature may be fine after the engine has started up, but during cranking more power may be needed, especially if the starting temperature is cold. To provide this, you can input a step position that provides a larger than normal air opening during cranking. So, if in cranking and 'Cranking Position' < table value, then the IAC motor position (or PWM%) is set to 'Cranking Position', and when cranking is done, the motor position starts tapering (over the 'crank to run taper time') up to the table value over a user input period, typically a few seconds. (See the diagram below) If this feature is not desired, Just set 'Cranking Position' to a value higher than any table value. Then the table value will always be used since it provides more opening.

Crank-to-Run Taper Time (IACcrankpos): This is the time over which the cranking position of the idle (either the stepper steps or the PWM%) is moved to match the table value (see diagram below). Higher values give a higher idle for longer periods, which can improve starting performance.

Hysteresis (°) (IdleHyst): This input can be used to avoid continuous motor motion (and wear) for small coolant temperature changes. Changes to the motor are only made when new coolant temperature> coolant temperature on the last move, or, new coolant temperature < (coolant temperature on the last move - Hysteresis temperature). What this does is allow constant motor motion while the coolant temperature is rising, but when it peaks, there will be no further motion unless things cool back down - which is unlikely.

Time Based After Start (extended warm-up): You should NOT use the Time Based After Start (extended warmup) option unless you find you need it, and very few will. Disable it by setting the 'cold temperature to -40°F. Then this feature will not be used unless the coolant temperature at startup (ECU first powered on) is below -40°F. This feature is used toward the end of the warmup sequence when the coolant temperature is close to its final operating temperature. In this case, fast idle will normally come off, but SOME cars (very few) may need extended fast idle. An example is a car that uses heavy weight oil, which is nowhere near at operating temp when the coolant gets there, plus a hot cam with not enough idle torque to overcome the oil drag. This feature is implemented by inputting a 'Cold Position' that is the step position at start of extended warmup, typically about 80% of the final, fully closed step position. The IAC behaves normally until the step position commanded from the table just exceeds this Cold position value (either PWM or stepper). From that point on, the steps are tapered in so as to reach the last step value in the table over the 'cold taper time' period. (see the diagram). This slows the reduction in idle air as the engine continues to warm up (increasing the idle speed for longer than the coolant temperature alone would do).



Cold Temperature (°) (IACcoldtmp): This defines the initial coolant temperature below which the afterstart taper will be extended, based on the Cold Position and Cold Taper Time. It should be set fairly cold, generally not more than 20° F.

Cold Position (steps) (IACcoldpos): The Idle PWM values at which time based afterstart tapering is initiated. Note that this value must be higher than the lowest value in your IAC PWM table, or you can get strange operating results.

Cold Taper Time (sec) (IACcoldxt): This is the number of seconds that MegaSquirt takes to move from the 'cold position' to the position indicated in the IAC step table for the current coolant temperature.

[r34 gtr]

well...yeah..about that. see my IAT sensor? its right where the stock iac thing would go. i dont really know what im going to do. I might just do the v8 thing and drill a hole in the throttle plate so it idles okay. anyone know if that will actually work?

[good morning]

Your IAT sensor is going to heat soak. BAD place for it.

Why do you need to drill a hole in the TB again? MS will control the idle for you. Unless you are running 1000cc+ injectors.

[r34 gtr]

i dont know, we shall see i guess. Its not hard to relocate it if need be.