Update 2: It's time bishes

Your premier source for information on the Turbo KA: KA24E-T and KA24DE-T (KA with aftermarket turbo kit)!
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sil80drifter
Posts: 1313
Joined: Sun Aug 18, 2002 5:53 am
Car: 1990 240SX Hatch

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oil pressure now at 50psi at 3k rpm, and around 80 at 6500.

This is good enough for me, I'm running 3 quarts of 20W50 and one quart of that lucas oil enhancer stuff (kinda thick and goey but works well I hear).

I have had enough with this low oil pressure stuff, and since anything else I could do to try to fix this problem would be a rebuild, I may as well have fun with the car before I do it.

Compression is at 190 190 200 200 (my compression gauge sucks I think it's really 200 across the board), which means the car broke in well (inspite of my crappy oil issues), so I'm just gonna start boosting her at 6psi (and max out the 270s with the SAFC), and then tomorrow put in the 460s and take them for all they are worth. Around 250rwhp I hope.

We'll see how good I am with SAFC tuning I guess.Oh and I just installed the MSD BTM, which immediatly proceeded to retard my timing without boost (base timing!) so I had to advance it back up, but still running about 3-4 degrees retarded because I'm switching to the 460s tomorrow, and you have to retard the timing because the ECU will advance it when I tune low throttle with the SAFC. You like the run on sentence. You love it. I'll run the BTM at 1deg per pound, for safetys sake. And 93 octane of course.

Thanks for all the help and advice, I'll keep you guys updated.

sil80


Florida240sx
Posts: 11114
Joined: Thu Jul 01, 2004 7:17 am
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX Hatch 5spd
2012 Nissan Altima S coupe 2.5
Location: DeLand FL

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nice.So what did you do to fix your oil problem?New pump or did you just use different oil?

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sil80drifter
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Car: 1990 240SX Hatch

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the oil, as noted above. 10-W30 was no good at all in my case.

sil80

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sil80drifter
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Car: 1990 240SX Hatch

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She boosts about 2.5-3 pounds, and I am running pig rich, to be safe, but that makes me smell like gas when I get out of the car (gf is like "wtf u said u showered?").

So maybe I'll turn it up to 6 lbs on stock injectors and see if it gets better. lol.

sil80

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MS180SX
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Car: 1989 Hatch- Crushed
1993 Hatch- Sold
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sweet.. i had rotella 15- w50 with like 2 quarts almost of lucas to try to quiet my valves. I think i had blown rings though, casue the motor died like a day later.. oh well...

congrats on solving your oil psi prob. Good luck with everything

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sil80drifter
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Car: 1990 240SX Hatch

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the oil, as noted above. 10-W30 was no good at all in my case.

sil80

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sil80drifter
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Car: 1990 240SX Hatch

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Wastegate hose popped offBoosted 20 psiMotor started overheating and oil pressure went to almost 0Still drives but with very very low oil pressure and overheatingI'm done with the 240 for a while, starting work next week and grad class too.Maybe I'll give it another run next summerThanks to all who were there and offered something, whatever it may have been.I'll come visit occasionally.

sil80

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fiznat
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Jeeeeez man! Let me come over and look at that thing, it cant be as bad as you say!

Florida240sx
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Joined: Thu Jul 01, 2004 7:17 am
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX Hatch 5spd
2012 Nissan Altima S coupe 2.5
Location: DeLand FL

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Sounds like warped head.Doesn't it fiz?What $40 charge to resurface head and new headgasket...

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sil80drifter
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Car: 1990 240SX Hatch

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It overheats because of the oil pressure being too low. Parts are not able to give off enough heat to the oil (because it doesn't circulate enough), so the engine is overheating.

There is no oil in the coolant or vice versa, nor are there any leaks. It just doesn't get enough cooling from the oil, which is now overburdened with heat. The only way to solve this is to increase oil pressure to stock, and as I've said before: I don't know how to do that.

I'm out of ideas, besides rebuilding the whole thing professionally. Which requires time and money that I do not have. If you do have some ideas, please don't hestitate. I have 4 days before I de-register it.

sil80

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Import_Ant
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zerothread?id=131289

it could be that the spring in the regulator valve just needs to be stiffened or something is clogging one of the passages. It's also possible that it's time for a new oil pump.

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fiznat
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There are lots of things you can check... but anyways whats the point of de-registering it? I dont even know if you can do that. Not like it saves you money or anything, you already paid for registration through the year. I dont think its legal to have an unregistered car around anyways.

Taking it off the insurance is another thing, though. First call I made when my engine blew up was to my insurance company to tell the to cut the insurance off haha.

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deviousKA
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Pop your oil pump regulator bolt/cap off, and over extend the spring a little bit, a possible quick fix.

Its more likely that the tolerances in your oil pump are to wide. You can test this by removing the pump, filling it with oil, putting thumb over outlet, and turning the shaft counter clockwise. If you can feel a lot bleeding by its your problem.

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sil80drifter
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Car: 1990 240SX Hatch

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I've shimmed the pump numerous times, and also replaced it with a stock brand new pump and back. No difference. The spring I'm running right now is longer (by 4mm) than stock spring and is also shimmed.

Fiz, yeah that's what I meant, I'll be taking it off insurance.

My oil pressure is taken right from the oil filter housing (where it bolts on to) from the stock oil pressure sending unit hole. If it's low there, it means that oil can't be pressurized enough through out the block to be kept at stock levels. Yeah it SEEMS like it's a bad oil pump, but another one I've bought didn't do much either. I've also checked and replaced the oil pickup gasket, and since there isn't much going on from the oil pump until the pressure sender, there is not much to be checked there, besides the pump and the pickup.

If something was clogged in the block, it would be higher than normal at the pressure sender spot.

sil80

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deviousKA
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Are you sourcing your turbos oil feed from that pressure sender location as well? If so, your pressure sensor is never going to read your full oil pressure.

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Import_Ant
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sil80drifter wrote:If something was clogged in the block, it would be higher than normal at the pressure sender spot.
perhaps I worded that poorly. what I meant was maybe something got sucked up and is clogging/partially clogging the screen on the pickup or the passage from the pump to the filter.

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sil80drifter
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Car: 1990 240SX Hatch

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Yeah I am sourcing it off of there, but I did have the car turboed before I rebuil;t the block and the pressure was just where it should have been. I must have done somethign wrong during rebuild.

The oil pickup is clean I just replaced its gasket a few days ago, and the oil pan was cleaned out as well.

I don't really have time to mess aroudn with the car much, so I'll leave it be for now. I think I've been able to address the driveability problem pretty good by buying a Civic today. It should last me until I am ready to rebuild the KA again next summer and hopefully some time after that as well. You really can't beat 40mpg on the highway and 32 in the city, especially when I have to travel a lot for work.

sil80

Nowhere
Posts: 290
Joined: Wed Aug 03, 2005 1:56 pm
Car: Suzuki x-90, samurai

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Did you forget to replace the o-ring on the oil pickup tube??

If you don't mind a mess, remove the oil filter and have someone crank the engine. LOTS of oil should come out, like gush out.

Nowhere
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Joined: Wed Aug 03, 2005 1:56 pm
Car: Suzuki x-90, samurai

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Might want to use some silicone on the pickup tube o-ring too..

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sil80drifter
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Car: 1990 240SX Hatch

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Lol, I do mind the mess.

And I didn't forget the first time around, I jusr used pure silicone instead of an o ring. I thought this was a problem until I replaced that with a real o ring and nothing changed.

sil80


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