Guys,My clutch pedal is unsually long and pretty loose. Even before I replaced my clutch the pedal was like this, jsut the engagment spot was at the top. But now, after replacing the clutch and bleeding it, the pedal is still really long. I also changed the engagement period on it and it did change where it lies, now its halfway through the pedal, but the pedal is still really loose and stiff. From my other friend's cars, their pedals are really short and much firmer than mine. What could be my problem? I head it could be the Clutch Slave Cylider. Any ideas? thanks ahead of time.
Also, just another issue I'm having. My A/C lghts don''t turn on and doesn't blow cold air like it used to. This happened to me once but it went away and has come back. When i push the buttons on, no green light comes on like it should. any ideas as to why they won't come on and won't blow cold air unless they ARE on?
Unusually long clutch pedal?
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allenms240
- Posts: 661
- Joined: Sun Mar 08, 2009 5:54 pm
- Car: 1991 Nissan 240SX
Re: Unusually long clutch pedal? (allenms240)
I don't quite understand your clutch issue...
If the A/C button's green LED won't come on and it's not blowing cold air your A/C compressor is not operating. Check the belt that drives it.
If the belt is fine, you might be low on refrigerant (the compressor won't operate if the system is dry).
If the refrigerant checks out good, then something might be wrong with the compressor's clutch, the compressor itself, or the wiring harness.
If the A/C button's green LED won't come on and it's not blowing cold air your A/C compressor is not operating. Check the belt that drives it.
If the belt is fine, you might be low on refrigerant (the compressor won't operate if the system is dry).
If the refrigerant checks out good, then something might be wrong with the compressor's clutch, the compressor itself, or the wiring harness.
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allenms240
- Posts: 661
- Joined: Sun Mar 08, 2009 5:54 pm
- Car: 1991 Nissan 240SX
Re: Unusually long clutch pedal? (ghx407)
Well both problems have been fixed, but thanks for the info. The A/C problem was just a blown fuse. But is wasn't completely blown so the conpressor would only kick on once ever bump or so.
The clutch problem, was the free play was almost all the way up. The adjustment rod was barely in the clutch pedal. I just adjusted the hell outta it untill i got the desired clutch pedal height as well as when most of my friends have. Thanks for the helo though.
UPDATEUPDATEHey guys,After I had adjused my clutch, one day it wouldnt shift to reverse without grinding a little. So I thought that maybe iI adjusted it too much the night before. So I went to adjust the clutch pedal and now, no matter how far the rod is adjsuted in or out, the biting point in at the tip top of the pedal. This is really frustrating me and I gotta figure this out. I bled the slave and no air came out. I had also noticed that the boot came off the fork, so I i put it back on. After I lowered the car and took it out, still no change whatsoever. Also, the clutch fluid is extremely cloudy, from the CMC it looks black. Any ideas about my problem? Any help is much appreciated
Modified by allenms240 at 8:42 PM 9/9/2009
The clutch problem, was the free play was almost all the way up. The adjustment rod was barely in the clutch pedal. I just adjusted the hell outta it untill i got the desired clutch pedal height as well as when most of my friends have. Thanks for the helo though.
UPDATEUPDATEHey guys,After I had adjused my clutch, one day it wouldnt shift to reverse without grinding a little. So I thought that maybe iI adjusted it too much the night before. So I went to adjust the clutch pedal and now, no matter how far the rod is adjsuted in or out, the biting point in at the tip top of the pedal. This is really frustrating me and I gotta figure this out. I bled the slave and no air came out. I had also noticed that the boot came off the fork, so I i put it back on. After I lowered the car and took it out, still no change whatsoever. Also, the clutch fluid is extremely cloudy, from the CMC it looks black. Any ideas about my problem? Any help is much appreciated
Modified by allenms240 at 8:42 PM 9/9/2009
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allenms240
- Posts: 661
- Joined: Sun Mar 08, 2009 5:54 pm
- Car: 1991 Nissan 240SX
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91white_ka
- Posts: 128
- Joined: Mon May 18, 2009 7:06 am
- Car: s13 hatch
Re: (allenms240)
I had this problem with my first 240 it was a broken pivot bolt for the clutch fork. Get under the car and see if the acual clutch fork wiggles or moves around. My bet is that mushroom shaped pivot bolt is broke oryour for came unsnapped.
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allenms240
- Posts: 661
- Joined: Sun Mar 08, 2009 5:54 pm
- Car: 1991 Nissan 240SX
Re: (91white_ka)
Well white_ka, I went outside and jacked up my car, and the fork didnt wiggle at all, I even took the boot off the fork and had my brother press the cutch and everything was working out find. I really don't know what my problem can be. I even ruled it being the actually clutch pedal when i took my friends and put it on my car, and got the same problem. Since its not pedal, slave, or MC, that would only leave the fork, right? But everything seems to be in working order o.O. I'm stumped.
Re: (allenms240)
Its the size of your throwout bearing
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91white_ka
- Posts: 128
- Joined: Mon May 18, 2009 7:06 am
- Car: s13 hatch
Re: (driftneil)
its gotta be somethin internal in te trans
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DamonDread
- Posts: 422
- Joined: Sun Sep 13, 2009 6:28 am
- Car: 1987 Toyota Supra Turbo
- Location: Daytona Beach, FL
Re: (91white_ka)
I cant help but feel this is still due to adjustment. Do you have a repair manual? If you dont get one, they are life savers.
I just bought my Nissan, but most of the clutch pedals i have messed with there is more that one adjustment spot. Hondas have three, and there is a method to it, You loosen all the three slightly, then depress your pedal to so many inches from the floor then tighten one bolt, then let it out a little more, and tighten another, then depress it to almost on the floor and tighten the last. I just replaced my CMC on my accord and had a little trouble getting it perfect but after looking in my manual for the OEM specifications and guidelines, i followed the book and its PERFECT now.
I just bought my Nissan, but most of the clutch pedals i have messed with there is more that one adjustment spot. Hondas have three, and there is a method to it, You loosen all the three slightly, then depress your pedal to so many inches from the floor then tighten one bolt, then let it out a little more, and tighten another, then depress it to almost on the floor and tighten the last. I just replaced my CMC on my accord and had a little trouble getting it perfect but after looking in my manual for the OEM specifications and guidelines, i followed the book and its PERFECT now.
Re: (DamonDread)
Negative my man, there are only 3 adjustments on the clutch pedal. One is for heighth, which is the ascd cancel switch(top of pedal)Second is the depth, which is the clutch interlock switch(bottom of pedal)And the third is the master cylinder rod, this controls the height and depth to a point.(rod into clutch pedal)