Unsolvable Dead #1 Cylinder...

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Ok so... my #1 cylinder is not working. Here is a check list of everything that I have done to check...

Symptom: Crappy idle.All these are checked while the car is running on the #1 cylinder.

Unplugged Spark Plug wire. No change in idle or rev.Checked Spark plug for spark. Check!Unplugged Fuel Injector Harness. No change in idle or rev.Checked for fuel spray out of spark plug hole. Nothing came out!Checked Injector Ohms and Harness Voltage. 11ohms, 12volts, Check!Checked volt pulses from injector harness with noid light. Check!Swapped #1 and #2 injectors. No change in idle or rev.Unplugged #1 Spark plug wire to confirm. No change in idle or rev.Unplugged #2 Spark plug wire to confirm. Engine dies due to only running off of 2 cylinders.

So basically what I am narrowed down to is nothing. My injectors aren't plugged because I swapped the #1 and #2. Getting spark, air, but no fuel. However, my car doesn't bog at high rpms, so that rules out a bad FPR right? And a bad FPR would affect the injector furthest from the fuel supply correct (i.e. Cylinder 4)?

Please I need some help and I have nothing else to go off of.


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TheRealNap0le0n
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because the symptom doesnt seem to follow the injector but you dont have fuel @ #1 i'd say something is in the fuel rail... but thats just a guess...

put a FP gauge and let us know what it is... and if all else fails swap the fuel rail out or clean it.

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But since the #1 is first on the fuel rail would any sort of blockage affect the rest of the line? I am not having any trouble with the other cylinders.

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TheRealNap0le0n
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is it? hmm i cant remember now that you mention it... lol.

well if it is then blockage in the rail is unlikely.

pull the sparkplug and look inside with a light to see if you have a hole in the piston or to see if the piston is moving.... better yet perform a compression test.

drzm0st1ll3st
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i would say do a compression test?? it might help idk just a suggestion if youve done all of that

Sthrteen
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I have the same exact F'n Problem in my #2 cylinder.

I've done all the simple test like you did, with no results.I have a Sohc, Ive switched fuel rails, bought new/used injectors, changed plug wires around.One thing though is that I'm able to revive my cylinder lol, after redlining a few times. (I know its not good but only way it helps) when I did a compression check there was times when it read nothing and times when I got 150.I still want to take the valve cover off I have a feeling that the valve spring could be weak or something.

some say maybe its carbon build up, Ive had this issue for a year now.

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PyR0NiAk
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Can't the ECU cause this? I know that if you run a Type X ecu on a Redtop SR, it'll only run on one cylinder, so I'd assume that a bad ecu can cause certain cylinders not to work on a KA....

drzm0st1ll3st
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once the car works fine,, if it IS carbon buildup,, i suggest SEAFOAM,,, i have done it 2x,, once recently and the first when i first got my car, and you can TELL the difference!!

mrgreeneyes
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timing?

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I have quadruple checked timing from second guessing myself... Every time it was perfect.

I just rebuild the engine so pistons and stuff are good.

I guess I will test compression, check and see if the intake and exhaust valves are actually moving, and maybe swap ECUs to see if that is not working. I can hear tapping from my injector though with a screw driver though.

How does a FPR work? Does increased vacuum close it? I will get that vacuum checked as well.

If all else fails, I am going to have to have a shop diagnose this problem, because apparently I just can't figure it out.

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Compression test results:

#1: 0#2: 120#3: 122#4: 120

So.... cams off or what? WTF... I need help badly...

Sthrteen
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Kinda low number for the other 3 cylinders.

Mine were around 150-160 but #2 was 0, then I redlined the piss out of it on the road, got compression back. and its been an ongoing battle for about a year. what kind of motor do you have?

nvm see you have a 93

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srpowered240sx
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swap ecus, ive had a bad ecu cause injector problems.

Sthrteen
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srpowered240sx wrote:swap ecus, ive had a bad ecu cause injector problems.
could a injector give you 0 compression?

s13sr20-90
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take your valve cover off dont be scard and check the valves,springs and retainers, valve stem seal may not be put in well if ur only getting 122 acros the bord and 0 in 1 just check it out under the vavle cover

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Hooked on 240
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dam those numbers are low! they should be all in the 151-179 range for a regular ka... maybe a little higher since you rebuilt it...
Sthrteen wrote: could a injector give you 0 compression?
The only way i could think of this happening is if when you drive it and that injector for that cyl isnt working causing that cyl to not work

BTW was this a leak down or comp test.


Modified by Hooked on 240 at 11:14 PM 2/18/2010

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Hooked on 240
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Also when doing the comp test did you remember to keep the throttle wide open?

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jeff420
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he can swap ecu's, do compression tests all day long with the throttle plate open, etc but thats not gonna change the fact he has 0 compression lol

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Hooked on 240
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jeff420 wrote:he can swap ecu's, do compression tests all day long with the throttle plate open, etc but thats not gonna change the fact he has 0 compression lol
SHH!

Hes got to be missing something... if he just rebuilt it im sure its something stupid...

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jeff420
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we seriosuly need more details. was the block/head machined or at least checked out? lots of variables. im guessing something with cam timing or valves.

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Yeah it has to be something with cam timing or valves stuck open to have 0 compression. When I put everything back together I made sure the valves opened and closed when rotating the cams.

But I must not have it off by that much to actually have my car running. I gotta check it out some more.

I am hoping it's just my cam timing that is keeping my valves open enough to lose any noticeable compression. I might just end up pulling the whole engine out again and rechecking everything if I can't figure anything out.

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TheRealNap0le0n
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stupid question but did you line up the piston rings on cylinder one? cam timing wouldnt cause one cylinder to be dead. maybe it would cause the whole motor to be low but not like i see it.

btw my motor pumped out 210psi compression with a stock rebuild and a milled head so your numbers are hella low unless you plan on running boost.

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slidestyle69
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This is for sure a internal problem with the motor, and not a timing issue.

there is no way the timing would be off bad enuff to affect your motor the way it is and it run properly minus cylinder No#1.

if so then there's some info that is being left out.

plus i believe there would be some valve/piston contact if the timing was off this bad.

are you sure the rings are seated properly?

are you sure you installed the the head componets together right?

etc etc..its hard for anybody to determine this w/o further info


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ZOMG.SR20
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stick a piece of paper in cyl 1 while cranking with no fuel and tell me if there is oil on it if there is your rings were not put on in the right order

rioredstang
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You have a valve problem!! You need to pull the valve cover and check #1. It's not backfiring in the intake so I would say you have a exhaust valve to tight, broke valve spring, or a stuck guide. In any event you need to stop looking elsewhere and find out why #1 has 0 compression.

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spank044
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I don't want to wreck all the fun of the other guys and their great ideas, but you have not done your timing correctly. I suspect your intake is opening late and you bent an exhaust valve in your number one and possibly the rest. The bad timing is resulting in your low compression and I bet you have small dent on the exhaust side of all you pistons. Just number one hit hard enough when you fired it up. Sorry for the bad news, but pull your head and check it out.

And I hope these posters don't work on cars professionally. srpowered240sxPyR0NiAkTheRealNap0le0n for two stupid postsslidestyle69 ZOMG.SR20


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PyR0NiAk
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spank044 wrote:I don't want to wreck all the fun of the other guys and their great ideas, but you have not done your timing correctly. I suspect your intake is opening late and you bent an exhaust valve in your number one and possibly the rest. The bad timing is resulting in your low compression and I bet you have small dent on the exhaust side of all you pistons. Just number one hit hard enough when you fired it up. Sorry for the bad news, but pull your head and check it out.

And I hope these posters don't work on cars professionally. srpowered240sxPyR0NiAkTheRealNap0le0n for two stupid postsslidestyle69 ZOMG.SR20
There's nothing stupid about QUESTIONING if an ECU can cause it. Look up what the Type X ecus cause to happen on Redtop SRs. A professional would have more to work with than just what some guy is saying on a forum as well. He'd have access to the motor to check compression and pull the head as well. Next time, try NOT being a douche.

rioredstang
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Didn't I say he has a valve problem! As you stated he may have timing off causing valves to hit pistons, but to start you have to pull the valve cover off. By the way how long have you been repairing cars?

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spank044
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PyR0NiAk wrote:There's nothing stupid about QUESTIONING if an ECU can cause it.
His first post gives you all the clues that his injectors and ignitiong is working correctly.

Rioredstang, you weren't on my list. Your statement made sense, but just pulling the valve cover won't show you the dents in your pistons. Also I have been building 300+whp turbo imports for just shy of 10 years now. My last KA made 416whp at 28psi and I hope to make close to 500whp from my turbo VQ that I am building right now. I have done all the work on my cars since I was 15.

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TheRealNap0le0n
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spank044 wrote:I don't want to wreck all the fun of the other guys and their great ideas, but you have not done your timing correctly. I suspect your intake is opening late and you bent an exhaust valve in your number one and possibly the rest. The bad timing is resulting in your low compression and I bet you have small dent on the exhaust side of all you pistons. Just number one hit hard enough when you fired it up. Sorry for the bad news, but pull your head and check it out.

And I hope these posters don't work on cars professionally. srpowered240sxPyR0NiAkTheRealNap0le0n for two stupid postsslidestyle69 ZOMG.SR20
I'm a mechanic by profession actually.... and how was anything i posted stupid. especially since i was the first one to tell him to do a compression test.....


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